Weekend Milling

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820wards

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Just got back today from milling this weekend. I finally had the opportunity to test out the mini-mill I built with the rail system. After I capped each log I would use the mini-mill for cutting the sides of the logs. I even used to to cut dimensional lumber. I would cap, find the center, snap a chalk line, align the rail board and then cut the logs. I would then use my Alaskan homemade mill and cut the lumber. I even cut a 6x6 beam for my neighbor.

jerry-

I don't have any pictures of the mill in operation because it's hard to rum a saw and photograph yourself.

Setup for cutting log cap
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First side cut
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Mini-Mill sitting on rail system. It worked quite well.
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Finished log cut into a 6x6 beam. It will be used to make a frame for mounting an old 1902 single cylinder field implement engine on.
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Additional Pictures

Setting up to make 2x8 lumber
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Cut 2x8 lumber
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Me making snow with the mini-mill. When I work on the mill next, there WILL be something to keep the chips from flying on the operator.
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I was happy with how smooth the cuts were with my big mill after I changed the ramp angle of my rakers.
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Our stack of 2x4's, 2x6's and 2x8's. And I still have two more logs to mill after I make the mods to my mini-mill. I will post those changes after I get back from my hunting trip. Headed out Thursday.
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jerry-
 
Last edited:
I don't have any pictures of the mill in operation because it's hard to rum a saw and photograph yourself.
Yes, it is hard, but it can be done using the camera's timer.

I never cease to be amazed at the humongous growth rings in warmer, wetter climates. Pine, is it not ?
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Thanks for the pics. :clap:
 
Nice work Jerry.


Thanks Bob,

After hurting my back about 8 weeks ago, I didn't want to take on too much milling to start with. The back did fine a I had no mechanical problems with any of my equipment. It all worked great.

Only issue I had was a fuel tank fitting leaked. I fixed that and it was back to milling. My buddy took some pictures and will be sending them to me. After I photoshop them I'll post the pictures.

Also, I put the 8 x .404 drive sprocket on the mill and it did make a difference in the chain speed. I operated the motor at maybe 3/4 throttle. I'm going to play with the timing on the 820 motor to see if I can get a bit more rpm for the next time I mill.

jerry-
 
This thread makes me wanna go cut some logs. Some loggers select cut a section of forest near here & left a lot of trees down for whatever reason. I think i'll go in & grab the logs. It's all softwoods but they're straight clean logs of decent size, 15-20" diameter.
 
This thread makes me wanna go cut some logs. Some loggers select cut a section of forest near here & left a lot of trees down for whatever reason. I think i'll go in & grab the logs. It's all softwoods but they're straight clean logs of decent size, 15-20" diameter.


The logs we milled were in the 18-20" range. I still have two more to mill, but want to make the modifications to my mini-mill before I mill again. I'm planning to use some of the wood to build a firewood shed on my place.

Have fun cutting, I'm going hunting for a week.

jerry-
 
Get em!!

This thread makes me wanna go cut some logs. Some loggers select cut a section of forest near here & left a lot of trees down for whatever reason. I think i'll go in & grab the logs. It's all softwoods but they're straight clean logs of decent size, 15-20" diameter.

Time to get em.
 
Here are some pictures my friends wife took while I was milling. I used my Alaskan style mill that has my 820 PowerBee 134cc motor. I installed a 8 x .404 drive sprocket and it increased the chain speed by 14%. I also changed the angle of the rakers per BobL's suggestion and found that my cuts were smoother.

Shot of our milling site located in the Gold country of CA. The weather and view was great.
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Making Chips, Not much bending with my mill setup.
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Making a side cut with the mini-mill using the guide board I made. I used 3/4" x 3/4" angle iron screwed to a 2x6x8' redwood board. The angle iron keeps the board from flexing and it isn't very heavy at all. I'm using my HUSKY 365 Special and it did a great job making all the side cuts.
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Here is my friend Gary tightening up the unistrut rails to the 1-1/2 x 1-1/2 wood pieces set to level the first cap cut.
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Finishing a cap cut using the 10' unistrut rails I setup. This system worked very well on these 8' logs. The mill worked great the two days we ran it. Only had a fuel line fitting start to leak on the second day that was easily tightened up. I only used about 1-3/4 gallons of fuel to do all the milling. My mill seems to be pretty good on fuel consumption. My mill weights 61 pounds including fuel.
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Great pics Jerry, some nice fat chip flying and it looks like everyone is having a good time.
:deadhorse:
I still reckon you are bending over too far :)
:cheers:


Bob,

We did have a good time. It was work, but fun work. :biggrinbounce2:

Do you see the back support I'm wearing while I mill. I was thinking of you all the time. Believe me if I could have gotten the logs higher I would have done it. They just weigh too much and I don't have anything I can put them on that would hold that much weight.

jerry-
 
Bob,

We did have a good time. It was work, but fun work. :biggrinbounce2:

Do you see the back support I'm wearing while I mill. I was thinking of you all the time. Believe me if I could have gotten the logs higher I would have done it. They just weigh too much and I don't have anything I can put them on that would hold that much weight.

jerry-

I have one of those back supports. I bought it when I installed a retaining wall made of 140, 160 lb limestone blocks, mind you I was some 10 years younger then. I might have to break it out for the new mill!

I made myself some lowish profile saw horses from 3/16 angle iron and piecec of 4.5 x 2.5 hardwood . I've had 1500 lbs on them and they stayed together OK.
 
I have one of those back supports. I bought it when I installed a retaining wall made of 140, 160 lb limestone blocks, mind you I was some 10 years younger then. I might have to break it out for the new mill!

I made myself some lowish profile saw horses from 3/16 angle iron and piecec of 4.5 x 2.5 hardwood . I've had 1500 lbs on them and they stayed together OK.


Bob,

I was thinking of copying the 'A' shaped piece you made for your off-road jack. I have one for my Jeep, so I could use it for lifting the logs higher. I do have some large angle iron that I could make a set of saw horses that I would make to fold up for easy transportation.

Your new mill looks nice, I'm sure your itching to give it a try. I was looking at the spring on the nose. If you need strong springs, try some automotive valve springs that also use an second inter spring. Something off a big motor would be preferable. Most V8 engines have an installed spring weight of 160-180 foot pounds. When compressed the spring weight at .500" lift can go up to 380-450 foot pounds. Just a spring suggestion.

I was just offered a 30" across Black Oak tree limb for milling this weekend. One limb is easily 20' long. There is no way I would try milling that limb at 20'. I would cut it into two pieces, for safety and for ease of milling. I would probably drop the big limb onto other limbs cut from the tree. The tree was blown down in a storm this past winter and is laying on it's side. The trunk is easily 5' across and the biggest bar I have for my WARDS 820 saw is a 32" bar. This will be fun tree to work on.

jerry-
 
Ha there Jerry,

I notice on your mini mill that you have the saw opposite way around from what i have seen before,is there a reason for this.
Others i have seen have the the chips going in the direction you are traveling.
Cheers
 
Ha there Jerry,

I notice on your mini mill that you have the saw opposite way around from what i have seen before,is there a reason for this.
Others i have seen have the the chips going in the direction you are traveling.
Cheers

Yes, I am milling on the top of the bar. I get less chips flying at me. The saw is actually oiling the top of the bar so I figured the lubrication on the top of the bar would reduce bar wear.

I did turn the saw around one time to see what difference it would make. It made no difference in milling speed. Where the difference was I found is how much I looked like a snowman with all the chips that were landing on me.

If you have mini-mill purchased or home made you would need to make some sort of chip deflector to run the saw with the bottom of the saw bar.

With winter coming on here in CA I was decorated for the season with wood chips. :hmm3grin2orange:

jerry-
 
The saw is actually oiling the top of the bar so I figured the lubrication on the top of the bar would reduce bar wear.
Chain movement carries the oil to the bottom of the bar first. Most of the oil will be flung off at the nose and there will be less oil on the top of the bar where the cutting action is taking place.

I did turn the saw around one time to see what difference it would make. Where the difference was I found is how much I looked like a snowman with all the chips that were landing on me.
The trick to mini-milling with the bottom of the bar is to tilt the saw so the chips are thrown forward. This works OK unless the wind blows the chips back in your face, as it often does. :laugh:

I tried running the Granberg mini-mill set up to cut on the top of the bar. The cutting force pushes the saw away from the guide board, so I had to work harder to hold the saw down. Also, I was worried about the possibility of kickback.
 

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