Went to the Dolmar dealer this weekend

[Grfi]

I don't post here often but I read through the messages every day at work on my lunch break. I have learned a lot from you folks.

I think I have my trusty Husky 350 sold on craigslist and will be upgrading to a saw in the 50cc range, probably a Stihl MS 361 or Dolmar 5100S. I have never walked into a dealer and bought a brand new saw so this is exciting for me.

I went to the local Dolmar dealer over the weekend. They're new to selling Dolmar (around two years) but have been in the snowmobile business for many years and have a decent reputation around town. They had all the major models in stock and I was able to handle the 5100 and the impressive 7900. The 5100 seems like a nice saw at a nice price ($410). I asked if they tune their saws before they sell them. The dealer said, "I start them up, but I have never had to adjust the mix...the altitude in Germany must be the same as Michigan." The posts about these saws blowing up because of a lean setting from the factory have me worried. I do not know how to tune a saw and don't want to experiment on a new saw. The Dolmar dealer seemed like a nice guy and the shop is about three miles from my house. The Stihl/John Deere dealer is also a few miles from home, too.

Is this a big enough concern to go to the Stihl dealer, spend an extra $200 and buy the Ole Tom 361?

I don't want to open a 361 versus 5100 can of worms, but any opinions would be appreciated.

Nick

:monkey:

 

[gink595]

If your going to flop out the money for a 361, you could about buy the 7900...Did you price one there? I like my 5100 and haven't had a problem with it...though it is far from stock and I have only cut about 3-4 cord with it. I think with a little knowledge going into it likek you do that is precaution enough. Check you plug see what it looks like after you use it, it is a great tell tale sign of the carbueration.

 

[AKDriveSprocket]

Well I hate to say this but I think there is to many problems with the 5100. I would keep the 350 my self rather than go with the 5100. Keep the 350 and get the 361.

 

[CentaurG2]

I have and run both a ms361 and a dolmar 5100. Both wear 18” chains with the stihl at 3/8 and the dolmar at .325. If you are just bucking firewood, these saws are surprisingly similar in handling, performance. The stihl is just a dogg out of the box and really needs a muffler mod to get out of its own way. The dolmar suffers from poor air filtration and if you don’t own a tach, you can toast it in a hurry. Dealer support really depends on your area.

If you want a decent 60cc saw, take a good long hard look at the Makita DCS-6401 (yea it is actually made by dolmar). The site sponsor Baileys is currently selling them for about $500. These saws are considerably heavier than either aforementioned saws but a 6401 will easily our cut either of them and it is easily upgradable. Just some thoughts.

 

[Javelin]

Well here we go again! The 5100's for me have been very good however I do set mine before I sell them and have had NO issues! However a 6400 is a good saw to take a look at if you are bucking larger stuff!:greenchainsaw:

 

[AKDriveSprocket]

Javelin how lean are the saws before you work on them? And what do you set them at before they go out the door?

 

[Javelin]

They are set lean alot like echo has done for emissions! It usually takes just very little to get them in a 4-stroke mode! Which for me when it is new is between 13,800-14,000. At this setting and after a few tanks of fuel run through them they usually are running just below 14,300 with the 4stroke mod still going! Put them in the cut they lean out and just go!

 

[Madsaw]

I also own a 5100. Today before I went to cut wood I done something stupid. After seeing the post about the 5100. I checked the plug. Looked real good. But, I would have prefered to see a slightly rich plug. So, out comes the knife and I trimed off just a sliver of the limiter cap on the high side. Might have amounted too a 1/8 of a turn. It seems these saws take very little adjustments to make a bigger difference. I previously tacked this saw at 14250. I did not have my tach handy today but the saw actually slight 4 stroke at WOT. I have noticed a little lose in rpms too.
What I think is going on these saws will run fast but could stand a tad rich to get them where they need be. The saw starts alot better now also. After this setting I ran 3 tanks through it. It even feels cooler, meaning less heat redeating from the muffler to the front handle.


Would I buy another one. Yes. Very good saw for the price.
Bob

 

[Javelin]

BTW the new 5105 is suppose to be a tad richer from the factory according to the rumors! I will know later this week!

 

[Javelin]

Madsaw

This is what you want on that saw!!! 4stroke out of the cut but in the cut she leans out and makes more power!:yourock:

 

[AKDriveSprocket]

I tach all my saws and the ones I sell I go 500-700 under max RPM. Just to be more on the fat side. I figure if I sell it in the summer it my be just right for the colder winter time cutting or just a hair high.

 

[Madsaw]

I just think all the dealers are setting the saws to teh standards from dolmar. I know mine was cranked all the way to the stop on the high side. Just glad I adjusted it richer now. I am going to pull the plug and check the color.
Bob

 

[Javelin]

akdrivesprockets

Did you get your 7900 P&C installed?

 

[04ultra]

I also own a 5100. Today before I went to cut wood I done something stupid. After seeing the post about the 5100. I checked the plug. Looked real good. But, I would have prefered to see a slightly rich plug. So, out comes the knife and I trimed off just a sliver of the limiter cap on the high side. Might have amounted too a 1/8 of a turn. It seems these saws take very little adjustments to make a bigger difference. I previously tacked this saw at 14250. I did not have my tach handy today but the saw actually slight 4 stroke at WOT. I have noticed a little lose in rpms too.
What I think is going on these saws will run fast but could stand a tad rich to get them where they need be. The saw starts alot better now also. After this setting I ran 3 tanks through it. It even feels cooler, meaning less heat redeating from the muffler to the front handle.


Would I buy another one. Yes. Very good saw for the price.
Bob

Now Bob are you sure it hasnt melted down 5 times in 6 tanks like some on AS seem to say???

Ive been trying to buy a few of the melted down 5100's and cant seem to find them around ...

I agree ......All the plugs Ive pulled are dark carmel colored .............




.

 

[AKDriveSprocket]

Yes I did thanks for the help. That is one heck of a saw now. Not that the 6401 was bad. I didn`t get to use it too much before I shipped it to the Father in law. He was and still is using the 357 and 359 to cut about 125 cords a year. I told him I would build him a bigger saw. He uses the 7900 most of the time now so he is happy with it. Thanks again.

 

[stihlboy]

BTW the new 5105 is suppose to be a tad richer from the factory according to the rumors! I will know later this week!

well the one at the shop turned 14,200 out of the box and after cutting a cord worth of wood it is at 14,500..........

 

[THALL10326]

I don't post here often but I read through the messages every day at work on my lunch break. I have learned a lot from you folks.

I think I have my trusty Husky 350 sold on craigslist and will be upgrading to a saw in the 50cc range, probably a Stihl MS 361 or Dolmar 5100S. I have never walked into a dealer and bought a brand new saw so this is exciting for me.

I went to the local Dolmar dealer over the weekend. They're new to selling Dolmar (around two years) but have been in the snowmobile business for many years and have a decent reputation around town. They had all the major models in stock and I was able to handle the 5100 and the impressive 7900. The 5100 seems like a nice saw at a nice price ($410). I asked if they tune their saws before they sell them. The dealer said, "I start them up, but I have never had to adjust the mix...the altitude in Germany must be the same as Michigan." The posts about these saws blowing up because of a lean setting from the factory have me worried. I do not know how to tune a saw and don't want to experiment on a new saw. The Dolmar dealer seemed like a nice guy and the shop is about three miles from my house. The Stihl/John Deere dealer is also a few miles from home, too.

Is this a big enough concern to go to the Stihl dealer, spend an extra $200 and buy the Ole Tom 361?

I don't want to open a 361 versus 5100 can of worms, but any opinions would be appreciated.

Nick

:monkey:

Da 5100 is a Jewel but it tant a Ole Tom.

All kidding aside both are good saws, I gotem both...

 

[Adirondack]

Get the 7900 unless you have a lot of limbing to do. It is just a lot of fun. I am sure the 5100 is good but if you want to really see chips fly the 7900 will do the trick.

 

[Grfi]

Thanks for the replies, everybody. I was expecting the "upgrade to the larger saw" responses, and maybe you're right. :greenchainsaw:
I didn't price the 7900 or 6400 but they were both in stock and I have a feeling if I walk in with green folding cash like I'm planning to do, a good deal can be had.

I do have one of those Sirometer (Vibra Tach) tachometers and have used it with success after rebuilding my Kohler two cylinder engine in my John Deere 400 tractor. I would assume that this would work on a chainsaw. Has anyone used one of these on a saw?

Let's say I do get the 5100 with the factory tuning, or even the 6400 or 7900. What's involved in a proper setup?

I was sure the popular opinion would be to go with the 361, but so far only one reply supported that. I'm really leaning in that direction, but I am tempted by the 6400 or 7900.

:monkey:

 

[Trigger Man]

Thanks for the replies, everybody. I was expecting the "upgrade to the larger saw" responses, and maybe you're right. :greenchainsaw:
I didn't price the 7900 or 6400 but they were both in stock and I have a feeling if I walk in with green folding cash like I'm planning to do, a good deal can be had.

I do have one of those Sirometer (Vibra Tach) tachometers and have used it with success after rebuilding my Kohler two cylinder engine in my John Deere 400 tractor. I would assume that this would work on a chainsaw. Has anyone used one of these on a saw?

Let's say I do get the 5100 with the factory tuning, or even the 6400 or 7900. What's involved in a proper setup?

I was sure the popular opinion would be to go with the 361, but so far only one reply supported that. I'm really leaning in that direction, but I am tempted by the 6400 or 7900.

:monkey:

Your going to have to get an electronic tach for chainsaw work, they make adjustments much more easy.(hands free mode) There's a couple of good models out there, some of the site sponsers sell them. The tach you have is more suited to checking briggs and kohler engines.