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Cool. I'll have to get one of those. I wasn't planning on dragging it across the ground. We use 55 gallon trash cans for that now. It kinda sucks as it takes two crew members to carry them most of the time. Seems like half the clean up time is spent dragging them back and forth to the truck. I'd pick this thing up with my FEL and drive it to the truck.
 
Sure did, a nice open notch @ 80-85% of the width. Canopy still on the tree [Ash]. Had a decent lean, but not really pronounced. i was expecting this so I was moving way clear as soon as she started to go.
I'd love to see a picture of the notch, either of the trunk or piece removed. To me it doesn't appear your notch was deep enough into the trunk. How thick of a slap was still standing after the break? How much hinge wood?

But bore cutting does help too. It keeps the tree from falling, till you have the proper amount of hinge wood and your completely ready for the tree to fall.
 
I'd love to see a picture of the notch, either of the trunk or piece removed. To me it doesn't appear your notch was deep enough into the trunk. How thick of a slap was still standing after the break? How much hinge wood?

But bore cutting does help too. It keeps the tree from falling, till you have the proper amount of hinge wood and your completely ready for the tree to fall.
Sorry, no other pictures. The slab left behind was about 4" thick at its widest in the center. Pic has a me with a limbing saw, but i used my MS660 36" bar for the notch and backcut. Only had maybe 4 barber chairs in 30+ years in the business.
 
Apparently I'm missing where the notch was cut[emoji52] hinge? Don't see that either, and it fell 180° to where it looks like you wanted it.
The notch would be on the other side of the barber chair. Which would have been on the bottom side of the lean.

Basically the tree snapped, due to the lean and canopy weight, before he got his back cut close enough to the notch (for proper hinging of the tree)
 
It's better that he got out of there rather than trying to chase the cut while it split. You're lucky not only did you skirt getting hurt, but your 660 made it out ok too. Lot of times the saw gets punched in the cut when the spar barber chairs. That's when you get guys who wanna yank the saw out and hang around too long in the danger zone.
 
Sure did, a nice open notch @ 80-85% of the width. Canopy still on the tree [Ash]. Had a decent lean, but not really pronounced. i was expecting this so I was moving way clear as soon as she started to go.
******** there is no notch in that tree I can see 95% of the diameter sitting on the ground next to the stump there is no notch in that log! if u had 4 inches of a slab sticking up how deep was your notch ? Half an inch?? I don't see the notch piece on the ground anywhere, could it be out of the shot sure it could, but I dunno... u yourself said u made a notch 80 to 85% of the trees diameter, so u either cut way to deep and it just fell over or u only cut into the tree 15 to 20 % depending how you were referring to 80% but then that 4 inch slab would be much closer to the center of the stump not right on the edge!!
You must be delusional!
 
Apparently I'm missing where the notch was cut[emoji52] hinge? Don't see that either, and it looks like it fell 180° to where it looks like you wanted it.
Yeah Chris, The notch is on the backside of the chairback. It fell in the direction I wanted it to go, just let loose about an inch sooner than I wanted. If we call this a 30"diameter tree, I wanted 3" [10%] of hinge, chairback is @ 4" max width. The depth of the notch was probably 5"to6". I always keep a sharp eye on my backcut and head out as soon as it starts to open up. That is why I don't like the idea of a plunge cut. Seems like everything would happen all at once, giving the sawyer no time to get out of the way. Thanks for the constructive criticism climbhightree and gorman.
 
The crew at this country club was going to make the cut, looked like a candidate for this so I convinced them to let me make the drop. Good fun. Some say to use a plunge cut to prevent a barber chair, I don't like the idea, opinions?

Well, your way didn't work out too well did it? Making a bore cut is a safer way to prevent what happened in your picture. It takes practice.
 
Well, your way didn't work out too well did it? Making a bore cut is a safer way to prevent what happened in your picture. It takes practice.

With a proper bore cut you're hinge is established before any thing would move. A quick touch on the remaining "strap" and it'll go over.
 
Too bad we don't have a pic of the so-called 'notch',
I may be wrong, but your only pic leads me to think you just did a back cut until you knew the time to move. I think you thought about a plunge cut but maybe you did put a little something on the side of the only pic.
Jeff :)
It was a beautiful day,,
 
-13 at 7 am today. Boss said stay home. So I played with the kids, worked around the house, and spent quite a lot of time reading up on srt gadgets. I think I'm going Hitch Hiker. I like the ease of switching srt to drt. Also took a glimpse at a 150 page PDF file from bandit since someone didn't find the owners/ parts/ engine manuals for the chipper before bringing it to me. :dumb2:
 
The crew at this country club was going to make the cut, looked like a candidate for this so I convinced them to let me make the drop. Good fun. Some say to use a plunge cut to prevent a barber chair, I don't like the idea, opinions?

I can't see the notch, and there isn't much sawdust on the other side of the tree, so it must be a pretty small one.

If you cut a notch, with the back of the notch 85% of the width of the tree, I hope you used a bigger saw than the one in the picture. Using that saw would have required a bunch of mucking around to get a proper notch.

And that saw was too small to do the backcut in a single pass, so you would have had to cut from both sides. That would have allowed you to set the hinge width on one side before finishing on the other side. You could have also used a modified Coos Bay cut (cut out the back corners and leave a strip perpendicular to the hinge down the center of the tree. Once you have the hinge width set on each side, you can quickly rip out the strip)

Check out page 23 of manual 1 and page 25 in manual 2

http://www.worksafebc.com/publicati.../assets/pdf/bc_faller_training_standard_1.pdf
http://www.worksafebc.com/publicati.../assets/pdf/bc_faller_training_standard_2.pdf

Don't see any wedges either.
 
There's no notch there. It looks like the bar was too small and he tried cutting from both sides and the two cuts didn't match up at all and he's covering it up with his left leg
 
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