What’s wrong with my 42” bar?

[VW Splitter]

What’s wrong with my 42” bar? It cuts great till I get it sunk up deep in the wood, then it just quits cutting. It might be cutting a little crooked as it goes in, but not bad. The chain is good and sharp. It has the correct gauge chain. The bar is straight, it will stand up straight on a flat surface. I don’t use it a lot but it sure is nice when you need it, if it would work. I’m open for suggestions. Give me some words of wisdom.

 

[stihl sawing]

Check the edges of it to see if it has flared, if so file it off. that flare can be wider than the cutters and not let it cut. a long bar like that takes a lot of oil and if under lubricated it cat heat up and flare.

 

[Stihlproincky]

What’s wrong with my 42” bar? It cuts great till I get it sunk up deep in the wood, then it just quits cutting. It might be cutting a little crooked as it goes in, but not bad. The chain is good and sharp. It has the correct gauge chain. The bar is straight, it will stand up straight on a flat surface. I don’t use it a lot but it sure is nice when you need it, if it would work. I’m open for suggestions. Give me some words of wisdom.

How long you had it? Looks like its well used, ya prolly need a new one. Our 36" has a replaceable sprocket nose, once it got bent which caused issues with it cutting when buried in wood, might try looking at that.

 

[Stihlproincky]

Check the edges of it to see if it has flared, if so file it off. that flare can be wider than the cutters and not let it cut. a long bar like that takes a lot of oil and if under lubricated it cat heat up and flare.

I second that. Check the depth of the rail after doing that, as I said you might need a new one.

 

[ballisticdoughnut]

Honestly I’d say get a new bar. Had a new 261 not long ago that would bind up in the cut. Turns out the roller tip was getting clogged up with fines. Replaced the bar (warranty) and haven’t seen the saw since. Could try filing the burrs of the rails and clean the grooves. If that doesn’t yield a positive result replace the tip.

 

[stihl sawing]

Yu have 1 of 2 things wrong and maybe both. the bar has mushroomed on the edge and you said it's cutting crooked. if you are cutting trees that big just a little bit of crooked will hang it up. the solution for that is to get a new chain or file3 all the cutter the same. on a long chain like that it takes some practice to do. can't be sharp on one side and dull on another.

 

[stihl sawing]

GB bars are good bars, i run the paint completely off this one. it's probably not wore out, just needs dressing up.

 

[thompsoncustom]

With the chain on how much side to side rock is there? Have you ever filed/dressed the rails? Might just be time for a tune up on the old girl.

 

[Philbert]

Uneven cutter lengths, sharpening angles, and depth gauge heights, can each make a chain pull to one side.

If the cut is crooked enough, it will create a curve that is too tight for the bar to follow. The saw will ‘stop cutting’ at a depth of 3” - 4”.

Philbert

 

[singinwoodwackr]

With the chain on how much side to side rock is there? Have you ever filed/dressed the rails? Might just be time for a tune up on the old girl.

I’ve fixed a lot worse

 

[serdie]

I’ve fixed a lot worse

Skip tooth chain on it? If not it’ll bind up b buried in soft woods

 

[VW Splitter]

Check the edges of it to see if it has flared, if so file it off. that flare can be wider than the cutters and not let it cut. a long bar like that takes a lot of oil and if under lubricated it cat heat up and flare.

I checked the edges and the bar is not flared. The chain has very little side to side movement in the bar. I feel sure I’m good with that. However, I did notice the bar had a slight bow to it. A good 3/8 of an inch bow. Took a lot of mashing around, but I have got it straight again. I had the problem with it not cutting as I was falling a tree at my son’s house Friday. I’m going to go back and do some bucking with this bar hopefully Monday and see how it does. Do you think that bow In the bar could have been the cause of my problems?

 

[singinwoodwackr]

I would still dress the rails. Even a slight "out of square" will cause curved cuts, especially on longer bars.

 

[cscltd]

The problem is usually the chain. One side of cutters has hit something and the tip of cutter although may feel sharp, is not highest point on cutter making contact with wood thus binding or cutting to the side. I don’t think the bar is the issue, if the rails are even it wouldn’t really matter that the bar would have slight curve to it as the bar does not move bar and forth while cutting (if making lumber you would have to plain planks more)
Throw a new chain on it and I’m sure problem will go away

 

[VW Splitter]

Went back this afternoon to do some bucking and cut the stump off. The bar worked just fine this time. I think it was a combination of the bow in the bar and some barb wire in the cut that made it quit cutting. I have had the problem the last few times I’ve used the bar. I think it was the bow in the bar. I did sharpen the chain before I went back. I cut through the barb wire again cutting off the stump. I could tell it slowed down a little but it kept on cutting. Thanks for all the input and ideas on this bar issue.

 

[singinwoodwackr]

Went back this afternoon to do some bucking and cut the stump off. The bar worked just fine this time. I think it was a combination of the bow in the bar and some barb wire in the cut that made it quit cutting. I have had the problem the last few times I’ve used the bar. I think it was the bow in the bar. I did sharpen the chain before I went back. I cut through the barb wire again cutting off the stump. I could tell it slowed down a little but it kept on cutting. Thanks for all the input and ideas on this bar issue.

A 42 with comp? Why?

 

[VW Splitter]

A 42 with comp? Why?

Are you asking about the full comp chain instead of skip? Teach me something about chain. You use skip tooth on longer bars because with less cutters it takes less energy to pull the chain thru the wood, correct? With more cutters would the chain not cut faster, as long as the saw can keep the chain up to speed? This ported saw has no problem keeping up the chain speed. Am I thinking wrong on this?

 

[wildwes]

Are you asking about the full comp chain instead of skip? Teach me something about chain. You use skip tooth on longer bars because with less cutters it takes less energy to pull the chain thru the wood, correct? With more cutters would the chain not cut faster, as long as the saw can keep the chain up to speed? This ported saw has no problem keeping up the chain speed. Am I thinking wrong on this?

That's the theory, and also that it gives more room to pull chips out. I don't have a 42" but I run a 36" with full comp and it does fine.
Out of curiosity, what's the diameter of that tree? It looks like you could pretty easily use a shorter bar and cut from both sides, which might save you some headache.

 

[KTM 350]

I will reword the questions to give a more complete answers.
Why full comp, I have the power.
Dirty wood, each cutter shares the load not dulling as fast.
Hardwood, only taking small chips, no matter how sharp.
Only buy rolls of full comp. Just run the 42 as a stumper .
To each his own and run what you bring.

Why skip chain, if the saw has the power to pull full comp ?
Weight, lighter is faster and less stress in moving parts. If your packing extra chain in the pounds add up.
Cutters, less to sharpen or repair. Each cutter puts pressure on the bar in the cut needing more oil. Think of drivers as oil squirts and cutters as wipers. This will help a little with wear and heat.
Time and Space. With longer bars cutting with the tip and the bar buried, chips have more space to move. Your not recutting the same chip has much or clogging up the kerf . Just because you have the power doesn't make it efficient cutting. This why a saw cuts the best when you can eject the chip right after the cut. Most fell this as the bottom of the bar just before the dogs.

What are you cutting ? We have so many types of cutters ,chain and spacing. This is to give us the best combination for the job.
Their is no one perfect chain for every cut. Have more then one kind and they all cut.
These are just a few points . Hours, days, and years have been spent on chainsaw chain engineering . Lets not go as deep. "What's the best 2 stroke oil" next?
Hope this helps?

 

[VW Splitter]

That's the theory, and also that it gives more room to pull chips out. I don't have a 42" but I run a 36" with full comp and it does fine.
Out of curiosity, what's the diameter of that tree? It looks like you could pretty easily use a shorter bar and cut from both sides, which might save you some headache.

The tree was about 38" where I fell it, and right at 42” cutting it off the stump. Yes it could have been done with a shorter bar cutting from both sides, however.... I'm that guy that can't always line them cuts up on both sides of the tree. I'm the firewood weekend warrior, but I’ve been doing it for 44 years so I’m not a greenhorn either. I’m all about having that perfectly straight henge, and doing whatever I can to make sure things go my way. The longer bar reaching thru the tree keeps me straight.