What a great site!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[TopJimmy]

Hi, I am new to this site. The information and help given on this site is wonderful. I have learned more in the last two weeks than I ever knew about chains saws.

You guys are nuts!! Modifying saws into hot rods. Some of you may not be very bright! I have finally found a place where I fit in!

Now for the bad part. This site seems to have I virus, and I have caught it. All I want to do is buy chainsaws. Ebay, pawn shops, etc. When does it stop? I think I have a hole in my collection. I need a mid sized saw. I am thinking about finding an 046/460 in need of a piston and cylinder and installing a big bore kit and a modded muffler, and maybe, perhaps attempting to port and polish? Seriously I have a lot of mechanical ability, more money than brains (don't assume that this means I have any money), and I love to tinker. Is there a good place to find info on modifying a saw? Best place to find the saw in need of a rebuild? It's that darn virus, I do not need such a saw, but it sounds like fun. Its cheaper than chasing girls, not to mention the cost of the resulting divorce.

Sawingredneck, that is a mean looking splitter. Do you keep it outside? I work in the Wichita area and want to see that dude in person.

A few questions, I will ask the in this post first, if I do not get the answer here I will ask in a new post. For some strange reason I am worried that this post could go way of topic. Could that really happen on this site?

1. I ordered a 32" bar and some chains for my 385xp. I intended to order skip tooth chain, but ended up with the standard 75LG. Will this work ok, or should I order the skip tooth? I won't use the long bar often and it will mostly for large stump removal.

2. I ordered a rim sprocket setup to replace the spur on my 029 (something I learned here). I ordered a 7 pin .325, but when I removed the spur, it was an 8 pin .325. I installed the 7 pin, the saw has allways seemed a little underpowered, I have yet to try it out. What do you reccomend?

3. Chain sharpening - I always take my chains in to a shop. Over time a sharpener would pay for it's self, but I do not know about the time involved to sharpen a chain. Are there pros and cons of hand fining vs grinding.

4. Carb tuning - There seems to be two camps on this issure. Tach vs ear. I think that I am coming to the conclusion that the novice should start with a tach and over time learn to tune or at least fine tune with the ear. Any thoughts?

I will shut up now. Thanks for the input and letting me hang around this site. I need to go search for some medicine to cure this darn chainsaw fever.

TopJimmy

 

[04ultra]

Welcome enjoy the site...

 

[Hack]

Quit now while you're ahead!!!

I joined this site last month.

Picked up my first chainsaw at a local dealer yesterday.

Even before I cut wood I'm already planning my NEXT chainsaw purchase - BIGGER! BETTER! FASTER!

It's an illness I tell ya'!

:rockn:

 

[Nicholas]

Now for the bad part. This site seems to have I virus, and I have caught it. All I want to do is buy chainsaws. Ebay, pawn shops, etc. When does it stop? I think I have a hole in my collection. I need a mid sized saw. I am thinking about finding an 046/460 in need of a piston and cylinder and installing a big bore kit and a modded muffler, and maybe, perhaps attempting to port and polish? Seriously I have a lot of mechanical ability, more money than brains (don't assume that this means I have any money), and I love to tinker. Is there a good place to find info on modifying a saw? Best place to find the saw in need of a rebuild? It's that darn virus, I do not need such a saw, but it sounds like fun. Its cheaper than chasing girls, not to mention the cost of the resulting divorce.
TopJimmy

Welcome to the site Jimmy! Don't feel out of place. Everyone here is a chainsaw addict one way or another.

-Nick

 

[TopJimmy]

Dan,
When you hand file, are you using a jig or guide, or are you just dressing up free hand?

Thanks,

Jim

 

[sawinredneck]

Welcome to the site Jimmy I live outside of Wichita, E. of Derby, south of Andover, you can put the peices together from there I assume:biggrinbounce2:
I still haven't gotten that beast done, been too busy with other stuff, like making money! I need to get it going soon though, going to have to haul in a boatload of Oak, I am feeling a cold winter commin (I hope)!!!!
If you haven't found a dealer you like in the area, send me a PM and I will turn you to who I think is best!
I cannot answer the chain on the 385 question, I can't see power being a problem!
I would be more than happy to let you see the splitter when it's done, or in the process if you desire. I have the cheapy Harbor Freight grinder that works ok for me and I would also help you learn that as well as the hand fileing ( learning myself, but hey, it's a start!)
Anyway, enjoy the site, but watch you're spending habits, it's way too adictive!!!!
Andy

 

[stihlatit]

Welcome to the site Jimmy. Enjoy your new found knowledge.

 

[NWCS]

welcome to redneck heaven Jimmy. hotrod saws are big around here. your going to have some fun getting into modified saws. if you need anything just give a hollar

 

[CaseyForrest]

Welcome to AS!! Ive got a rebuilt 460 for sale on Ebay right now, with the BB kit. may be just what you are looking for!!

 

[carvinmark]

Welcome aboard....Be careful,it's addictive.

 

[computeruser]

Hi, I am new to this site. The information and help given on this site is wonderful. I have learned more in the last two weeks than I ever knew about chains saws.

You guys are nuts!! Modifying saws into hot rods. Some of you may not be very bright! I have finally found a place where I fit in!

Welcome! You will find that there is a ton of information to be gained, especially if you read back through all the posts - seriously, some night when you can't sleep or you're ill and have time on your hands, read ALL of them sometime, you'll be amazed!

Now for the bad part. This site seems to have I virus, and I have caught it. All I want to do is buy chainsaws. Ebay, pawn shops, etc. When does it stop? I think I have a hole in my collection. I need a mid sized saw. I am thinking about finding an 046/460 in need of a piston and cylinder and installing a big bore kit and a modded muffler, and maybe, perhaps attempting to port and polish? Seriously I have a lot of mechanical ability, more money than brains (don't assume that this means I have any money), and I love to tinker. Is there a good place to find info on modifying a saw? Best place to find the saw in need of a rebuild? It's that darn virus, I do not need such a saw, but it sounds like fun. Its cheaper than chasing girls, not to mention the cost of the resulting divorce.

I'll throw in a plug for caseyforrest's 460BB project, if you're looking to buy something that's already rebuilt. Otherwise, if you're looking for a rebuildable saw or parts enough to make one, you should ask around here. Many of the guys here have more to-be-rebuilt saws hanging around than they'll ever get around to rebuilding...

A few questions, I will ask the in this post first, if I do not get the answer here I will ask in a new post. For some strange reason I am worried that this post could go way of topic. Could that really happen on this site?

1. I ordered a 32" bar and some chains for my 385xp. I intended to order skip tooth chain, but ended up with the standard 75LG. Will this work ok, or should I order the skip tooth? I won't use the long bar often and it will mostly for large stump removal.

Since a 385xp is in the same league as a 7900 Dolmar, I'll throw in my two cents. Based on my experience, here in Michigan a muffler-modded 7900 can pull 28" of full-comp chain in hardwood nicely, but I can't imagine wanting to ask much more of it than that. Depending on the types of trees you usually cut, you might be content with a 32" full-comp setup, but then again you might not be. It's hard to say for sure without trying it.

Depending on how well you intend to clean your stumps off before cutting them, you might better off with semi-chisel chain, instead. You may also find that chip clearance becomes a problem that would be eased with skip chain. Either way, it seems like your best bet might be to try the stuff out. If you're not pleased, buy some skip and have the full-comp loops broken down and remade into a couple loops for the saw's smaller bar (which you likely have).

2. I ordered a rim sprocket setup to replace the spur on my 029 (something I learned here). I ordered a 7 pin .325, but when I removed the spur, it was an 8 pin .325. I installed the 7 pin, the saw has allways seemed a little underpowered, I have yet to try it out. What do you reccomend?

7 pin unless you're only cutting softwoods or running a 16" bar, but even then I don't think that the speed gained would outweigh the torque lost. I used to own a 290 and .325/7pin/20" required a gentle touch when taking a full-bar bite.

3. Chain sharpening - I always take my chains in to a shop. Over time a sharpener would pay for it's self, but I do not know about the time involved to sharpen a chain. Are there pros and cons of hand fining vs grinding.

Either technique can produce good results when performed by someone with skill; either can produce crap results when performed ineptly. When I was in high school, I was the fool in the back grinding away on the chains that were brought in. That's why, nowadays, I would never take my chains to a shop unless I knew and trusted the person grinding them.

I don't cut a ton of wood, especially when compared to some of the guys on here, but I still think that investing in a grinder was a good idea. You can find the Tecomec 136 (same as Oregon 511A and, I think, the grinder that Bailey's sells) for $210 buy-it-now on eBay (there's one on there right now, item #7757155649). I think it's a good investment. Once you get the hang of it, it only takes a couple minutes per chain to get really good results.

If you'd prefer a non-electric alternative, Stihl sells a nice bench-mounted filing guide tool for about $150 that seems like a good setup. I suspect that this system might take a few minutes more per chain, but at least you can sharpen in the middle of the night without waking anyone up.

4. Carb tuning - There seems to be two camps on this issure. Tach vs ear. I think that I am coming to the conclusion that the novice should start with a tach and over time learn to tune or at least fine tune with the ear. Any thoughts?

If you can justify the cost of a good tach, then by all means go for it. I've always just tuned by ear and by the feel of the saw in the cut, but a tach would be nice.

 

[slipknot]

I was new last summer, now I have 9 chainsaws, and whole lotta knowledge about chainsaws. All because of this site. It's O.K. gotta have a good hobby to live a healthy life IMO. Just remeber before you ask a specific question do a search of this ste first, because someone may have already asked the same question, and besides you will get your answer quicker. There is another site that goes hand in hand with this site if you are a collector of chainsaws. Quick someone give him mike's site, chainsaw collectors corner!
I forgot what the adress is. Anyways have fun, there is no turning back now, you will go thru withdrawl and sink into a state of depression. (seriously)

 

[turnkey4099]

Welcome to the site. There is an inoculation for the virus but anyone trying to promote is is promptly banned.

Just a couple comments on sharping chains.

You mention the time to sharpen one. Yes, it takes a bit of time, nothing outrageous but in my case (only 4 miles from town) it is faster to sharp them myself than to make two trips to the shop.

Chains sharpened on grinders can be overheated and ruined in short order. A good operator will only take off a very _small_ bit at a time and do it FAST.

There are a lot of different filing guids out there ranging from one that only sets the file depth and you control all angles, etc. up to ones that set and hold everything. None are very spendy. You also need a depth gauge. By your files in packs and don't hesitate to throw them away as they quit biting.

Harry K

 

[carvinmark]

Chains sharpened on grinders can be overheated and ruined in short order. A good operator will only take off a very _small_ bit at a time and do it FA

Harry K[/QUOTE]

This is why I purchased my own chain Grinder.I try to be good to myself.

 

[lumberjackchef]

I need a mid sized saw. I am thinking about finding an 046/460 in need of a piston and cylinder and installing a big bore kit and a modded muffler, and maybe, perhaps attempting to port and polish? Seriously I have a lot of mechanical ability, more money than brains (don't assume that this means I have any money), and I love to tinker. Is there a good place to find info on modifying a saw?

TopJimmy

Hey TopJimmy welcome to the site, I'm pretty new here but I certainly recommend as others have pointed out, learn to do very specific searches through the old threads and you will be amazed at how fast you can find the answer to common ?'s. Here is a link that I found while searching for info about building my own pipe and modifying saws.

http://edj.net/2stroke/jennings/

I would download this, print it off and pay attention very close while reading it. There is so much information on modifying two strokes, building pipes etc., That lets just put it this way , either it will endulge your brain or send it into overload. If your like most people around here, you'll love it.

And I know what you mean about that virus, In the last year I have bought, fixed, traded, modified and/or, sold over two hundred chainsaws. I call it a hobby, my wife thinks I'm sick, and since I couldn't locate a Chainsaws Collectors Annonymus Chapter in SouthEast Kasnsas, I ended up here! You couldn't have landed in a better place with greater company... Enjoy your stay and welcome to the global chainsaw community.

 

[314epw]

welcome

Invest in a sharpening machine.A cheap one will do at first.If you like it get a better one that has more procession.If you don't like it you lost maybe $30.00.

As far as adjusting carbs,Iv'e turned wrenches a good portion of my life.But trying to figure out if the saw is turning 13500(redlined) or 14000(melt down)my ear isn't that good. A tach can be bought for under $100.00. Check back tread on tachs.
Ed

 

[Old Mac Guy]

A few questions, I will ask the in this post first, if I do not get the answer here I will ask in a new post. For some strange reason I am worried that this post could go way off topic. Could that really happen on this site?

TopJimmy

Nah...... alsolutely no danger whatsoever, TopJimmy, because in general, if you really look at the way a knobby 235x85xR16 grabs the mud when you're in a pasture with the 1-ton all loaded with logs and hafta somehow get through the boggy spot in front of the gate out of the pasture which, with a right-hand turn will take in only a mile or two right inta Spinky's place and the beer is cold and usually the people friendly and ya don't hafta worry about leaving yer chainsaws on the truck because even if something happened to 'em (which ain't even remotely likely) there's always the old Homie model 17 back in the garage and it only needs a quick shape-up with the hand-file and you're right back in downtown Wichita....

Just soak the brittle diaphragm in brake fluid of a few weeks.

Glad ta help....

:jester:

 

[TopJimmy]

Thanks for all the great responses. I downloaded all other info off of the Jennings site. Looks like I got some reading to do.

Jim

 

[TopJimmy]

Lumberjackchef,

200 saws, wow that seems like more than a hobby, but it does sound fun. Now I am wondering if at the end of a year you have more money in your pocket or a bigger collection of saws?

I recently purchased a husky 44 parts saw to fix my old one. Now it is fixed and I had parts left over. I have finally started my own bone pile! You must have a bone mountain.

Jim

 

[linnjb]

KS. rocks

Yo lumberjackchef,
What town in SE KS? Born and raised in Coffeyville. Didn't fully appreciate it until I left. Great place.