What chain for clean, accurate cuts?

[psu1xj]

Hi! (Hope this isn't too close in subject to my other post...)

I do timber frame building construction for a living and like to use a chainsaw to rough out many of the joints before paring and planing to my layouts with chisels, planes, etc. I use an Echo CS-670 (24" bar -- 3/8" pitch).

When ordering some new chains, what will give me the smoothest, most accurate, controllable cut? Do I want Round Chisel, Semi-Chisel, Square Chisel? I assume I want the standard type chain (one tooth per driver) rather than skip or semi-skip -- or is this backwards thinking?

I've been directed towards "full-house" or "beam" chains, but I can't find that wording at Bailey's site, so I'm left not knowing what to order!

Many thanks!

 

[cord arrow]

well, don't know that i'd be wrestling a 24" bar on a timber framing crew.

we've got a couple of the carving echos from bailey's, and the guys luv 'em.

they mortise and tenion with these things, cut some sweet joints, heck, they take 'em home and build furniture.

i reckon i'll get me a coupla' more...........

 

[Lakeside53]

I'd use a small saw like an MS180 or MS200 (or other brands) and run 3/8 PMN on a short bar, like 12 -14 inches. You can make very precise cuts and get a smooth finish.

 

[cord arrow]

obviously i'm chopped liver...............

 

[Grande Dog]

I have 110 drive links of .375 x .050 full house chain left @ .35 per drive link. The only other full house chain that I'm aware of is Oregon 1/4" pitch x .050 and it's called 25 F. It's something we don't deal with anymore but, it's as smooth cutting as chainsaw chain gets. It also helps if chisel score your cut lines before you hit it with your saw.

 

[clearance]

I guess it all depends on how steady and strong your hands are. I did some rehab work on a big shop where I live, some posts and a beam were rotted. I fell some cedars, drug em to the shop and barked em, cut em, made a beam with a saw and an axe. I used my 371XP with a 28" bar, couldn't see using my MS 200 with a 16" bar. A 24" bar should be no problem cause you are touching the joints up after, whatever non skip chain, as long as it is razor sharp and the rakers are high, you should have no problems,

 

[psu1xj]

Hey! Thanks for all the advice! I'm sure a 20, or even shorter, bar would be just great, but the saw came with a 24" and it is nice for some of the ripping cuts we sometimes do and really doesn't seem to be too much for the rest. Maybe an 18" would be nice, but is it $50 nicer?

Grande Dog, I'd love to try out that chain. How do I order it? Do you know what I need, or should I go check all the numbers again? Is there a "File-O-Plate" or the universal filing guide that would work to help me keep this one tuned up?

As for scoring lines, I generally pre-cut all shoulders with a skill saw, cross-cut saw, or chisel. Maybe somday I'll be able to cut my lines right off with the chain saw, but I try to work to 1/16" or so, and that's a pretty neat trick with the big Echo.

Thanks again to all!

 

[rupedoggy]

Now when you get that chain and you have used it for a while, report back here so others can benefit from your experience. Mike

 

[ShoerFast]

When ordering some new chains, what will give me the smoothest, most accurate, controllable cut? Do I want Round Chisel, Semi-Chisel, Square Chisel?

Many thanks!

IMO, sharp = control , try some Square Chisel for the finsh, there is a chance that it wouldent need plaining for some task.

Kevin