What did I break off near my flywheel? On my MS311, not sure exactly what it is.

[alexcagle]

Fubar'ed the crank.
That's quite an accomplishment.
You have failed DYI chainsaw repair class. Lol

 

[guysmiley]

Fubar'ed the crank.
That's quite an accomplishment.
You have failed DYI chainsaw repair class. Lol

As stated earlier, half of the break is oxidized indicating a prior crack. If he didn't take the flywheel off he himself it ain't his fault. Probably last guy used ugga dugga and got her nice and tight... Who knows.

 

[junkmaleforest]

My area has very few used saws available, so I would bolt it. If I was in a hurry I would weld it. If I had a lot of good used saws available I would buy one of those and put the current one on the shelf for now.

I'd say that crank end was already weakened before you finished it off. Did your shop ever take the flywheel off?

I'm in central FL currently, we have dozens of saws. I saw a 362 last night for $399. I should have jumped on it, it was sold already. The bar still had 90% of the paint on it! Ebay also seems to have a LOT of reasonably priced power heads. I have at least a dozen chains half of which are new. So I will stick with a 20 bar.

If funds are an issue I would just buy one of those supmix saws and run with that for a while. I am impressed by mine. I have no idea how long it will last, but so far after about 20 tanks of fuel thru one and a few through the one I gave my son I see no reason they won't hold together for a good long time. I wouldn't have given one of my sons' one if I thought he would have trouble with it. He is fully capable of fixing anything, but doesn't have the time to fart around.

The only issue with those saws that I know is the air filter seal is ****. I almost have that solved with a few o-rings and a couple of washers but it still leaks some fines. I'll try my next idea soon...

If you go that route, buy the one that matches the blue one sold in canada advertised as 62cc. The plastics are a fair amount better. And the air filter leak is easier to solve, simply because there's a bit more room under the filter cover.

I used to be a saw snob. Not anymore.

Good luck! Hopefully you find a nice used saw for a reasonable price!

I've watched some youtube guys use those saws and for my current needs(which is none!) I would surely try them out. Don't hate on me but I have a 60v Dewalt /18" bar & more batteries than I want to use. I paid $125 bucks for it on clearance from home depot. It's really my go to saw for trails and other small stuff, no gas, no smell, little noise. Thanks for the info on the air filter seal. The clone saws for the money might be the move if I need something immediately.

This could be a good excuse to reach out to local community. Stick up a flyer at the local market... Wanted, welder for 5 minutes job. Explain the situation. I would do it for a beer and a handshake. Or maybe the universe is telling you to learn a new skill. Little mig welders are affordable and really awesome for being creative and fixing/making stuff. Welding is practically a superpower. For a temporary repair just a washer over the nub and a few tac welds. Do not be discouraged, look at it like a new challenge.

Either way good luck, thought a little motivation couldn't hurt.

This is a great idea. I do want to get into welding, but time and space is the issue right now. I would gladly pay a guy $50 bucks for this simple job or to re-thread the bold, even as a temporary fix. I don't care so much about the money, it's the time issue for me.

 

[junkmaleforest]

As stated earlier, half of the break is oxidized indicating a prior crack. If he didn't take the flywheel off he himself it ain't his fault. Probably last guy used ugga dugga and got her nice and tight... Who knows.

I agree with this. I have never taken anything but the muffler, air filter, and plastic that covers the bar. Dealer always deal with it. When I say it snapped off, it was with so little effort I was amazed. We're talking 5-15lbs ft/lbs of torque. Oh well, water under the bridge. Now I get to look at 362/462's!

 

[The Snowman]

I agree with this. I have never taken anything but the muffler, air filter, and plastic that covers the bar. Dealer always deal with it. When I say it snapped off, it was with so little effort I was amazed. We're talking 5-15lbs ft/lbs of torque. Oh well, water under the bridge. Now I get to look at 362/462's!

Just made this log in because I just did this too to my 23yr old ms440. But I was dumb, thought this side was reverse thread like the other. Sheared it off.
Was just trying to access oil seals to see if they leak since I'm having an air intrusion issue. Replaced/checked everything easier to get to one by one , tested in between each part. But now I need help. Having a time finding all the specialty tools needed to rebuild and replace crank. Anyone know best spot to get those?

 

[guysmiley]

If not tapping and studding end and want to again have threads there then the crank itself is to be replaced not rebuilt. For crankcase splitting/bearing pulling/assembly I use heatgun at 400' and freezer as my main tools. Also have a 2 arm puller that can grip the bearings while crank is removed decently. I have only done one saw..... Twice now so I have not needed to invest in a proper set. Maybe someone else can recommend a source for them. I would try to drill and stud the end before splitting the case. Not much to lose at that point. Your saw I think has m8x1.0 for thread there.

Wait for more replies, much more experienced folk than me here