What happened here Stihl?

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hotshot

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Will try to get some pics posted later, but had a running Stihl 032 saw come in without a clutch assembly yesterday,
otherwise looked like a low hour saw with bright factory paint. No history on the saw, and no bar or chain.

Previously stripped rear bar stud pulled out when pulling OFF the clutch cover. No problem, tap it out for a repair type 10mm S056 magnum II stud size...a little red Loctite & done with that issue.

Put a new pin type cover washer on the shaft, then a new needle bearing, BUT the bearing end sets out about 0.050" OUTSIDE of the step down on the PTO shaft...that will bind the bearing up tight against the oil pump gear & the inner bearing race.

Pull the plastic oil pump cover & the OP gear/washer off and the crankshaft appears to be too far down inside the inner race on the PTO side bearing. Blocked off the carb & exhaust, and a P/V test shows case/bearing to be air tight. Looks like the PTO side of the crankshaft was not pulled into the bearing all the way. Crankcase screw heads securing the case halves all look original, no slot heads messed up like it had ever been split. Doesn't look like it was ever dropped hard onto the clutch side from a tree either.

Did this come from the factory this way & what did they originally use for a clutch & bearing set up?

You could grind or mill off the plastic OP gear faces a little on both sides, then mill the sprocket end to get a
new sprocket to fit with proper clearance, but I plan to try to pull this crankshaft on through the bearing without having to remove the top cover/handle and P&C to look inside. If you lay a straight edge onto the bar studs, the alignment of the chain onto the sprocket driver would also be too far inboard & rubbing up against the cover washers face.

I cut up some 15mm ID spacer bushings and will use an old clutch spider to help cinch it in, with a brass hammer tapping on the flywheel side (if needed some added persuasion)... but do you think I need to inspect the crank throws inside the saw first?

Has anyone ever seen a "short shaft" set up like this?..no white man comments please :>)
 
Still not sure of what you are dealing with, can you put up a pic? Where did you get the clutch?

Will do pics when I get back home, but the sprocket is a new 18200X rim, & the clutch will be from a used 032.

Never got that far though, as I stopped at the needle bearing problem last night.
 

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Pics

Where did the bearing come from?

PTO bearing is OEM Stihl German FAG. I went ahead & took the top cover off so I could see it better.
Pics "Short A" was the shaft/bearing fit, "Standard A & B" on the next posting is from an old 032 carcass
I had that fit correctly. Note how much difference there are between the two A pics.

I put the 15mm ID spacers I made on it "Short C" & could pull only 0.054" out before it locked
up tight. I assume that the crank journal is now tight up against the inner side of the
bearing now. The old carcass shaft is 1.161" out to the step down from the inner race, and the
"Short" guy measures about 1.125" now that it's fullly seated out.

I still had to take a little off the pump gear face & the sprocket rim drive to get it all to clear.
Note that the OP drive gear still doesn't fully mesh with the driven teeth, but it will run fine.
Pic "Short D" shows just enough step on the shaft now, so that the clutch won't bind the bearing
up any longer.
 
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So you replaced the pto side main bearing?

Nope, I would have put it in correctly if I did it!

"The crankcase screw heads securing the case halves all look original, no slot heads messed up like it had ever been split. Doesn't look like it was ever dropped hard onto the clutch side from a tree either. No history on the saw, and no bar or chain."

Do you think I need to pull the top end & inspect the crank throws inside before I run it? About ready to put
some gas into it & pull the cord...
 
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there is another washer /spacer on some 031-032-041 thats not in that ipl.
there hard to find, but that is what you need.
seen more of them on 041
 
Good to go

there is another washer /spacer on some 031-032-041 thats not in that ipl.
there hard to find, but that is what you need.
seen more of them on 041

Thanks Scott, I bought the older 041 cover washer that has no "raised collar", it helped some more
in getting the clearance back. Also used the thin flat thrust washer from another #? Stihl, instead
of the S032's stepped thrust washer under the drive gear, and the pump gear alignment is almost
the same.

It's back in service now!
 
I have the exact same issue with an 032 here in australia. I dont think your probelm is a crank assembly issue. More than likely a parts issue with the clutch washers. What were the 041 part numbers you used to get it working?
 
S040 & early 041 Cover washer

I have the exact same issue with an 032 here in australia. I dont think your probelm is a crank assembly issue. More than likely a parts issue with the clutch washers. What were the 041 part numbers you used to get it working?

Sorry, the "flat faced collar" cover washer with drive pin was not not labelled (it was used), but it came from an
early 040/041 series Stihls pile of parts. I would guess it was from the 040 series, as it used the separate
clutch nut after you torqued the clutch/carrier down tight. I don't have an early 040 IPL to check,
but someone else might though. The newer 041s used a 1110 030 7502(collared) & then a 7503 for rim
drives. **EDITED, FOUND THE WASHER*** The flat faced washer was a 1110 030 7500 part number.
It is shown on page 10 of the Service Manual.

You can also pull the drive pin out & grind back your existing cover washer's raised collar to get the bearing
to set below the shaft step...easy does it. Still ended up having to belt sand & chamfer a little from the
new rim sprocket end to gain the proper clearance again.
 

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Thanks for the info. The 032 I have been repairing is a later serial numbered model. One of the last lot I think. Was just curious as to what you used, Like you I was going to machine the gear shoulder down to get the clearance needed.
Knowing that the 041 parts worked gives me another option. Thanks again for your response, this is a great site and very knowlegable ppl here!
 
Aha…I think this is the problem I have going on the 041 I’m trying to bring back to life. Referencing back to my recent posts here.
another 10 year old thread revived!

Post in thread 'Stihl 041 drum differences? Need help please.'
https://www.arboristsite.com/threads/stihl-041-drum-differences-need-help-please.319158/post-7709909
I was able to fix my problem - detailed in the thread linked here and post #16 - by filing down the collar that was causing the needle bearing to extend past the shoulder on the crankshaft - which in turn caused the clutch to be locked to the clutch drum. See other thread for details. Here is the modified (filed) cover washer on left, and the original one on right.
1648323079947.png
 
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