What Happened????

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BostonBull

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I just pulled this from one of my saws. I will elaborate more once I see what people say. It doesnt appear to be running hot by the color of the plug, and it doesnt appear to be a head smack issue either.....far as I can tell.

The plug is broken or shaved off? It comes to a perfect point I know its hard to tell from the pics but I just couldnt get a good zoomed pic for some reason.
 
I think you may be right.

Pros and cons of this?


Hotter bluer spark, slightly less demand on the coil, easier starting, slightly more power in some of the power-band. Cons, plug wares out a little faster, slightly harder to set optimum ignition timing. And if not careful, bending the ground tang to file, you can crack it and with age it could drop into the cylinder and wipe out a jug.

A fair mod, it just makes the spark a little crisper, cost next to nothing, but only has slight , but noticeable gains.

I run a similar mod on some of my plugs.

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I run mine down just past what is in this drawing,,,,,, to the eadge of the "+" electrode.
 
Sorry, that is all that drawing has, but here is the concept. All you need is to give the spark something sharp to bridge, electric flows more crisply, but erodes the surface, for the same reason, ignition-points have a slight crown, you want them to last. Plugs are replaceable. (hope this shows the idea, side , angle and top view)

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File away, and re-gap, when it wares out, repeat.
 
I have nothing to add to the above, except about the pictures.. 1) focus.. and 2) resize...

Sorry, that is all that drawing has, but here is the concept. All you need is to give the spark something sharp to bridge, electric flows more crisply, but erodes the surface, for the same reason, ignition-points have a slight crown, you want them to last. Plugs are replaceable. (hope this shows the idea, side , angle and top view)

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File away, and re-gap, when it wares out, repeat.




Not you numbskull......



Good info Shoer!




.
 
My guess.....

It looks to me as if someone took some wire cutters and clipped it off to a point so that the spark would be better directed towards the combustion chamber. But that would just be my guess. P.S. that didn't by any chance come from a 440 with a bigger topend on it did it?? ;) , just wondering. I think it would give it a better spark arc resulting in greater fuel combustion. Negative that I can think of is that it would burn out of gap sooner.:chainsawguy:
 
Hey Shoer can you show that in color. I'm still not getting the picture.
How ever it is good info.
 
Hey Shoer can you show that in color. I'm still not getting the picture.
How ever it is good info.

Understanding the concept is maybe as important as a good drawing?

Electric just dose not like to bridge a gap, or jump. Air and fuel are an insulator, the more there is, or higher we compress it, the harder it is to trick the spark to bridge the gap. Having something sharp concentrates the electrons and once a braver one jumps, the rest fallow, the sharper the electrode, the more that cross at that point and the hotter the spark.

Think cattle crossing a river, they all want to cross.
Picture the river not having a narrower place, all the cattle will line up and just look at the other side, when they start accrossed, they all might cross in a different spot, without a lot of impact or "zap" on the river.
Cattle and electric-trons , cattle/trons, are sort of stupid, no one wants to be first and there a little lazy. If there were a point ware the banks of the river were closer, more would think about crossing there, not all, but more, but the first one will defiantly start from there.

Sharping the ground electrode will give the cattle/trons a more decisive place to start accrossed, and zap the h311 out of the river.

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Oh crap... another spark plug war thread!:hmm3grin2orange: :help:

Gary



Yes, the E3 people think that unless were running those plugs that shoot the flame around the cylinder, we are just hitching our plows to the horse the old-skool way! :dizzy:

I would be real surprised if there is a Nascar engine with out a sharpened or side-gaped ground electrode, it is also a NHRA trick,,,,even with the buzz-boxes they run!

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My 361 has a slight problem, hard to start in the "let it sit 20 minutes" Cold it starts fine, and hot/warm it starts, but let it sit 20 minutes, or that in-between time and you can tug on the rope a lot. I had also noticed that the rope has to really be moving fast to fire/spark. Sharpened the ground electrode and it is a lot better.

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Not a lot of mods cost less then re-profiling the ground tang, and I would bet a Dr. Pepper with anyone that tries it* , re-gap it to the same as it was/to specs, and it will at least start a little easier.

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*Use a new plug, as the filings would be harder to clean out of a plug with deposits in it. Check the area were the ground electrode is welded to the plug-base for cracks, if it did, it could brake of there latter and give you a cylinder/piston problem. (note: I robbed the pictures off the web, there not chainsaw plugs, but used to show the idea.)
 
I bet it's from a ms440 with a big bore kit on it that has been shaved 0.035" on the base then had a stage three job done but thats just a guess. That a bosch plug?
 

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