jokers
Addicted to ArboristSite
Big Woody said:
What is best cleaner to clean-up saws with?
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jokers
Addicted to ArboristSite
I`ve had good luck with Castrol Super Clean or the other purple degreaser at Sam`s Club, a hose, and a bristle brush.
ps: make sure that the piston is a TDC.
ps: make sure that the piston is a TDC.
JohnL
Addicted to ArboristSite
If you are dissassembling the whole thing, you can use Gunk engine degreaser, scrub it with a toothbrush, then hit it with the garden hose, works for me. If you are cleaning it assembled, I wouldn't spray it with water, it will find a way inside in my experience.
mike385
ArboristSite Operative
I use a cleaner that I am sure no one else can get. I use a cleaner caller arpoleez (not how it is spelled just pronounced). It is actually a jet engine degreaser and it works fabulous washes away with water and doesn't leave a residue. Smells like heck but works great.
I think the best cleaner for saws would be somthing mild like formula 409 etc.
However cleaners like Simple Green or Castrol Superclean are far to caustic. Using chemicals like Acetone, denatured aolcohol, fuel etc, will remove the plasticizers from the plastic. This will cause the plastic to discolor and become very brittle. After I clean my saws I like to use Plexus plastic protectant:spam: , it not only keeps my saws looking new but it also makes dirt and dust just slide off.
However cleaners like Simple Green or Castrol Superclean are far to caustic. Using chemicals like Acetone, denatured aolcohol, fuel etc, will remove the plasticizers from the plastic. This will cause the plastic to discolor and become very brittle. After I clean my saws I like to use Plexus plastic protectant:spam: , it not only keeps my saws looking new but it also makes dirt and dust just slide off.
I might be crazy, but I never clean my saws other than a quick blow off with the air nozzle.
I think one is better off paying attention to the air filter and making sure the carb is set properly.
I think one is better off paying attention to the air filter and making sure the carb is set properly.
I agree.
1953greg
ArboristSite Guru
i have read this thread 3 times and others on cleaning but still not sure on some points.
i need to clean the outside of an 066. it looks like its never ever been cleaned. its 3 or 4 times worse than i have ever tackeled. pitch, dust caked/cooked on absolutely everywhere outside but the cylinder walls, piston sides, and inside crankcase look almost pristine. on piston top and ports the carbon deposits are very heavy. the cylinder is soaking in berrymans carb cleaner now (read bout that here somewhere).
questions are,
1. would you remove piston and submerge it in the cleaner or clean it w/ scotchbrite pad n cleaner while on the rod? i have never removed a piston before.
2. 046 mentioned submerging the whole case in dawn solution then scrubbing (big woody did also but i took that in jest). is this a completely stripped case or can i submerge the assembled case w/ crank, rod, ect? everything needs cleaning on the outside and carbon places on the inside. im just not sure what parts (esp bearings, seals, hoses, coil, boot, ect) can handle which cleaners?
3. i have the nut off the flywheel, whats next for removing it?
i thought someone mentioned berrymans carb cleaner this morning on this
thread but i cant find it now.
any pointers appreciated good day 1953greg
i need to clean the outside of an 066. it looks like its never ever been cleaned. its 3 or 4 times worse than i have ever tackeled. pitch, dust caked/cooked on absolutely everywhere outside but the cylinder walls, piston sides, and inside crankcase look almost pristine. on piston top and ports the carbon deposits are very heavy. the cylinder is soaking in berrymans carb cleaner now (read bout that here somewhere).
questions are,
1. would you remove piston and submerge it in the cleaner or clean it w/ scotchbrite pad n cleaner while on the rod? i have never removed a piston before.
2. 046 mentioned submerging the whole case in dawn solution then scrubbing (big woody did also but i took that in jest). is this a completely stripped case or can i submerge the assembled case w/ crank, rod, ect? everything needs cleaning on the outside and carbon places on the inside. im just not sure what parts (esp bearings, seals, hoses, coil, boot, ect) can handle which cleaners?
3. i have the nut off the flywheel, whats next for removing it?
i thought someone mentioned berrymans carb cleaner this morning on this
thread but i cant find it now.
any pointers appreciated good day 1953greg
Last edited:
Lakeside53
Stihl Wrenching
1953greg said:
I've done many like your one...
1) - Wrap a big rag around the piston and stuff the excess rag it in the case to keep crap out. Use a scotch bite pad on the top only.... use a vac to remove junk and blow with air. Stabalize the piston with a block of wood under it.
2) NO. Don't put anything like a cleaner inside a clean crankcase. You'll just force junk behind the bearings and into the space to the seals. Put the cylinder back on with new gasket and torque down, put the plug in, stuff rubber into the exhaust port, plastic and a rubber band around the inlet port, plug the impulse hose. Now you can pretty much as you please as the engine is waterproof (assuming your crank seals are o.k.). Spray liberally with a diluted (1:1 or 2:1) water to Purple cleaner, a little scotch brite as required, and hose off within a few minutes; repeat as required.
If you don't put the cylinder back on, be very careful. if you get water inside the crank case, fill it with isopropal alcohol, swish around and dump out. Then fill with std fuel mix, swish around and dump out.
I assume you have the tank and other plastic all off - just spray with purple cleaner and wash. All the pitch and junk will come off. Same with the flywheel - just don't let the cleaner dry on the aluminum and you'll be fine.
3) You need a flywheel puller. Don't pry, bash, or any other brute force method. It takes only a few seconds with the right tool. Ask you dealer to do it for you if necessary - might cost you a few $, or free... Go to www.giftsofwood.com and download the service manual...
tree jockey
ArboristSite Lurker
never needed to use anything other than a parts brush & compressed air
Jim Mesthene said:
Without damage ? Chlorine ? Color fade ?
Jim Mesthene
ArboristSite Operative
The stuff in the red can is so harmless that my wife uses it as a spot cleaner on her good clothes. It smells like Dry Cleaning fluid used to. Yes it is a chlorinated product. That does not mean it bleaches. It has low toxicity, high vapor pressure (evaporates quickly) and is heavier than air.
The stuff has fallen into disfavor because it contaminates other fluids in the shop. For example: if you get some in your waste oil tank, and they test it for contaminants, it will show up as a chlorinated hydrocarbon and you'll pay hundreds of dollars in hazardous waste fees to get rid of a 55 gal. drum of waste oil that is otherwise recycleable and saleable.
You don't really have to buy the brand named Brakleen. The store brands work fine. Just make sure the label does not say that it's flammable; the non-chlorinated stuff is similar to lighter fluid and has none of those nice qualities I described.
The stuff has fallen into disfavor because it contaminates other fluids in the shop. For example: if you get some in your waste oil tank, and they test it for contaminants, it will show up as a chlorinated hydrocarbon and you'll pay hundreds of dollars in hazardous waste fees to get rid of a 55 gal. drum of waste oil that is otherwise recycleable and saleable.
You don't really have to buy the brand named Brakleen. The store brands work fine. Just make sure the label does not say that it's flammable; the non-chlorinated stuff is similar to lighter fluid and has none of those nice qualities I described.
wradman
ArboristSite Operative
cleaning
i just use my bar wrench to pull out the heavy junk ,blow everything out with air,brakeclean works good if you want to get fussy in the end,or when i want to winterize my saw i do the bottom of the starter assembly with duct tape,keeps the saw running warmer. the bar i just clean out the groove check the oil hole then i use my bench grinder with a wire wheel to clean the sides(knock the pitch off) GOOD TO GO!
i just use my bar wrench to pull out the heavy junk ,blow everything out with air,brakeclean works good if you want to get fussy in the end,or when i want to winterize my saw i do the bottom of the starter assembly with duct tape,keeps the saw running warmer. the bar i just clean out the groove check the oil hole then i use my bench grinder with a wire wheel to clean the sides(knock the pitch off) GOOD TO GO!
bigjayfromwa
ArboristSite Operative
Castrol Super Clean
Castrol super clean is the best stuff i've found that cleans up my saws. you will have to scrub some of the thick stuff, leave it on about five minutes and just wash it off. Just dont leave it on too long or it will take off the shiny finish of the saw.
Castrol super clean is the best stuff i've found that cleans up my saws. you will have to scrub some of the thick stuff, leave it on about five minutes and just wash it off. Just dont leave it on too long or it will take off the shiny finish of the saw.
Lakeside53
Stihl Wrenching
bigjayfromwa said:
Just be sure to dilute it at least 2:1, but 4:1 is best... The "generic" form of the Castrol product is "Purple cleaner" or Purple Power".
fozzyber
New Member
In order that I like:
1: VARSOL in a parts cleaning vat. Can't beat it.
2: Simple green
3: Gunk engine cleaner.
WD40 does make a nice wipe down for that nice shine afterwards.
1: VARSOL in a parts cleaning vat. Can't beat it.
2: Simple green
3: Gunk engine cleaner.
WD40 does make a nice wipe down for that nice shine afterwards.
16:1mix
Addicted to ArboristSite
Compresed air, pocket knife and parts/tooth brush for the scale and a final blast of ordinary starting fluid (ether) to remove grease/oil from the surfaces.
Starting fluid dries almost instantly after working and I've yet to find a material that it will harm. One of my odd findings is that it will remove residue from cleaning solvent in a gun barrell like nothing else.
Of course, the use of such a flammable(sp?) solvent dictates extereme caution and a well ventilated area (outdoors! ) but it can really help to get oily debris out of places you do not want water, etc to get into.
Starting fluid dries almost instantly after working and I've yet to find a material that it will harm. One of my odd findings is that it will remove residue from cleaning solvent in a gun barrell like nothing else.
Of course, the use of such a flammable(sp?) solvent dictates extereme caution and a well ventilated area (outdoors! ) but it can really help to get oily debris out of places you do not want water, etc to get into.
Tonka56
ArboristSite Member
Has anyone tried CocaCola? seriously
