What kind of gloves?

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I have had good luck with pig skin gloves.plus they don't dry hard after they have gotten wet.
 
I use goatskin gloves and dip the fingers and thumb in plasti-dip,that stuff you use on tool handles. They last a long time and you can re-dip after it wears through.
 
Nitrile gloves

I've had real good luck from the relatively thin but surprisingly tough nitrile coated gloves. You can buy em at northern tool and your farmers cooperative store ,and tractor supply. They run about 3.00 a pair and last a good while. They are cut and tear resistant and are even superb climbers too! When they get dirty just throw em in the washer and good as new again. These also have great dexterity. Enjoy!:clap:
 
Thanks for all the great ideas everyone, that's why I stay on this site.:blob2: I got the duct tape out last night and taped up two pair of leather ones with holes in them. Seems like some kind of rubber coating may be the way to go. I'm going to Northern today and see what they have. Also might get a pair of leather ones and do what Woodchop said about dipping them . That sounds like a great idea. Have about 3 cords to split this weekend so I'm going to do a test with different ones. Will post Sunday night or Monday morning with results. Thanks again Ray :givebeer: :cheers:
 
after reading this post i got 2 pr. to try Rubber Coated Cor-Grip Gloves. and i love them..
thanks,ant
 
If you are looking for a working leather glove, you should try the North Star Glove CO. glove called the "Bukaroo". I go through alot of sets of them but man are they nice to work in. Great for splitting and cutting. Even great for working fence if you must....
 
i never seen one of thease.. how does it help?

Yeah they help but a Pickeroon/hookeroon is even better than a pulp hook. I have both and use the pulp hook for loading rounds into the truck.
The pickeroon/hookeroon is very handy and a real back saver. I use one constantly while splitting.:cheers:
 
I use goatskin gloves and dip the fingers and thumb in plasti-dip,that stuff you use on tool handles. They last a long time and you can re-dip after it wears through.

I like that idea I'm going to try it. I just take six pairs of yellow fuzzys out with me. That way when they get wet I just grab another pair. And have wet gloves hanging on the engine or anywhere thats warm to dry out. Oh yea the heated handle bars on the new jonsered 2156 helps dry out the gloves too :chainsaw:

Billy
 
Atlas gloves are all I use for everything. From chopping/carrying wood to moving furniture, to working on vehicles, to landscaping, etc. They're fairly cheap so when one pair is finally done, I move on to the next without remorse. :cheers:
 
Ok sorry it took me so long to get back on this but i have been busy. And just got my daughter to help me post pics...and type (...hello from the poor girl who has this as a father, he is making me type this and what the hell is CAD he keeps talking about?...Please help me)

Ok here are the canidates:

<a href="http://s275.photobucket.com/albums/jj281/RayinTomball/?action=view&current=P3281388.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj281/RayinTomball/P3281388.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>


Everyone who has suggested latex or rubber coated are the winners. Man I have split about 3.5 cords of wood with one pair of the blue latex coated gloves and they are still holding up pretty good. Cost per pair: $2.99 but found a bag of 4 pair at HD the other day for $4.96 thats a $1.24 a pair. I really can't believe how well they hold up. I mean the pair I used $2.99 a pair for 3.5 cords means its less then $1 per cord, you cant beat that; I can afford that for gloves. Mesh back really makes them comfortable, b/c it is already getting up to 80 degrees here. And dexterity is really good. My brother tried some of the dipped ones but they are kinda stiff and you lose some dexterity. Well just wanted to post this thanks for listening.


The winners after 3.5 cords

<a href="http://s275.photobucket.com/albums/jj281/RayinTomball/?action=view&current=P3311393.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj281/RayinTomball/P3311393.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
 
i never seen one of thease.. how does it help?

Ant,
Sorry, didn't see your post earlier.

the pulp hook just makes it a lot easier to move bucked rounds. Instead of trying to get your hands around rough, wet bark, you simply whack the point of the hook into the log and lift. Most rounds can be moved with one hand - either lifted or dragged.

In addition to being easier on your hands and gloves, it's a lot less fatigueing - you don't have to lift rounds above your hips to walk with them, or carry them against your body. you just trail it alongside you with your arm extended. (picture dragging a trash barrel) then use your momentem to swing it up onto the splitter.

It's also handy for controlling the round on the splitter. you have a solid point of contact, and your fingers are that much further from the wedge.


Warning - they do take a bit of practice to use. whack it hard enough to set the point, but not too hard so that it doesn't come back out easy. After a cord or two, you'll get the hang of it... best $20 I've spent on a tool:clap:

-Dan
 
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