What kind of wedge is used here?

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onelicks photo

when these were posted originally , i questioned if the wedge was in the face cut as it is difficult to tell in the picture and also is it necessary to plunge cut such a small tree, the majority of the ones i get into are 20-30" and rarely plunge cut.
 
I agree

Onelick said:
I just use K&H "red head" wedges. Never steel wedges, that's stupid.
I agree my dad along time ago used a few steel wedges to make ceder rails and that bit him square in the face (lucky to be alive) sucking food through a straw for months now he can brush his teeth in his hand and never looked the same again unless of course go right a head if you don't like eating and having a beautiful smile be careful
 
Tree Sling'r said:
This picture reminds me of the beer league slowpitch softball player who wears the sweat bands, the pin striped baseball pants with a belt, eye black, the $300 hundred softball bat and then hits four little dribblers back to the pitcher. It is amazing how people want to look the part before they know what they a playing.


LOL...What gave him away? The brand new hickory shirt with no rips and tears? Pants not stagged off? I know...he's just too clean, thats gotta be it.
 
wedge question

Old post I am using just to save from starting a new one and the title is correct for my question.

I have seen steel,mag,and plastic wedges and I know what a high lift wedge should do? but what the heck is the wooden thing? and what is the ring for?
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HighLiftWedge300.jpg[/img]
 
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I took the GOL basic this fall. I find myself plunging just about everything now. They do teach the big wedges in from the side as close to the back as you can get it before you "cut the strap" and let her go or wedge her over.

I asked about the big wedges. Teacher said they didn't have the best mechanical advantage coming in from the side, but easier to pound than the little ones, less likely to shoot out, carry one size of wedge, etc. were the advantages given. He purposely picked out back leaners and the technique worked fine.

Only questions I have is why the tall stumps? I try to get everything where I can drive over it and the greatest volume of wood is in the butt.

And no, I don't know what that ring and wooden thing are for.:biggrinbounce2:
 
The high stumps don't make any sense to me, either!
He's cutting right where a sap spout (maple syrup) or wire fence COULD be and doubling the work if he was to cut the stump off after.
But he'd look great in a JCPenny catalog!

That last picture looks like the wood goes into the metal wedge and the ring goes over the other end of the wood to hold it together, once you start pounding.
 
I like the dirt and/or sawdust idea too. yes, always stack at 90 degrees. Hard head wedges do drive damn well, but I've only borrowed them, why, who knows. Yes, exactly, why carry a spare saw when a spare saw and chain (or 2 chains- sharpen at night). 2 wedges simultaneously, alternatelty pounded, is the way to lift big wood. Wedges to support the hinge is a myth, the length of the hinge across the stump is supporting the side lean, wedges push over the back lean. Fact. Cause what's that wedge doing once you get a 1/4" of lift from the wedge you're pounding from the back? Nothing, cause its the hinge wood thats holding the side lean. False sense of security. JC Pennys look , yes. High stumps, yes. Hard core prof. cutter?, not yet. Hell, either you get killed or you get good, right?

See, in the east coast we have such different growth form- heavy crowns and heavy leaners. I've cut with some west coast guys who came east to cusome timber, some might call it carpetbagging, easier here with less laws and regs. Humboldt is way cool, very artistic, and the wide array of variations of the technique really brings out the craftsmanship in felling. But, you cannot do that on the east coast. You must directional fell (bore cut) on the east coast or you will break too much wood- sure you can humboldt/back cut some trees but not all of them, no way. Barberchair, broken wood, etc too much.
remember, hinge width is 10% of stump diameter max. If you're going to have to really push it over, use a super thin hinge, this will not affect the side lean strength (don't quote me on that) A 3/4 inch hinge on a 34" oak is way easier to push over than a 2" or god forbid 3 1/4 inch hinge.

If it sets back on you before you have a wedge in, you may be able to squeak one in behind the hinge to work a gap toward the back to put in your real pounder, but if not, like said already, just bore in below your back cut and put the wedge in there.

And yes, occasionaly theres one I thought I could push over and you have your wedges in there and you hit em and you give it the first tap and a swing and you know right then there is no way that is going to get pushed over. Maybe a hardhead wedge could do it, but thats when I may be prone to just cutting it all over again (dangerous, recut with care only where its obviously going to fall,) let er' rip, can't lay em all down perfectly- give to skidder/dozer/shovel what have you a little extra work. Love cutting timber, true craft, an honor to be amongst the crowd.
 

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