OK, I have a lathe now. What do I do with it, lol. I didn't take any pics of the crate and before I took everything off that I easily could. It should now be manageable to get into the basement. I'm guessing it should be down close to 300-325#.
What lathe?
- Thread starter blsnelling
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Tzed250
Addicted to ArboristSite
If you get the headstock I'll get the tail..
Lay a sheet of plywood on the stairs and slide it down. Rope on a windless.
I was expecting this thing to be covered with thick, paste like cosmoline. The stuff on this thing was more like thick oil. It wiped off easily. Also, in most every review I read on this lathe, the pallet was nearly destroyed. Fortunately, mine looks like it's still setting on the factory floor. So far, I've found nothing wrong.
Anthony_Va.
XPW Fan Club
I took a machinist class in trade school for two years. I used to love to run the lathes. I wish I would have stuck with it and tried to get a job doing it. Oh well, another career shot all to h@ll by the farm.
nmurph
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I took a machinist class in trade school for two years. I used to love to run the lathes. I wish I would have stuck with it and tried to get a job doing it. Oh well, another career shot all to h@ll by the farm.
I wish I were farming for a living!
Tzed250
Addicted to ArboristSite
I took a machinist class in trade school for two years. I used to love to run the lathes. I wish I would have stuck with it and tried to get a job doing it. Oh well, another career shot all to h@ll by the farm.
US farms and farmers make sure we have great food to eat, made right here at home!!!
Anthony_Va.
XPW Fan Club
I still would like to get me a good lathe one day. Theres been so many times I've had to pay a small fortune for a part that I could have made from a $2 peice of steel. Just last week I paid 35 bucks for a belt separator for my ray roller. It's pretty much a round peice of steel with two flat sides about 2" up and two bolt holes in the rear. I could have made it in 5 minutes. :mad2:
Just last week I paid 35 bucks for a belt separator for my ray roller. It's pretty much a round peice of steel with two flat sides about 2" up and two bolt holes in the rear. I could have made it in 5 minutes. :mad2:
Jim Timber
1/4 bubble off
What a cute little lathe.
Get some WAY oil. That thick stuff you wiped off was probably it. Do not use 30wt, used engine oil, gear lube - get the right stuff, and use it. Dry ways are bad, but you also don't want it bathed in the stuff either. There should be a few ports on the carriage to lube up. With light use, you probably won't need to do it more than a couple times a month, but keep an eye on the ways to make sure they always have oil.
Also, if you do any grinding, sanding, polishing - anything at all that has abrasives: cover your bed! Those little abrasive particles get caught up in the heavy way oil and end up sanding your ways. I just throw some news paper down and toss it when I'm done. Some guys use rags, but those make me nervous about getting caught up in the lead screw.
Get some WAY oil. That thick stuff you wiped off was probably it. Do not use 30wt, used engine oil, gear lube - get the right stuff, and use it. Dry ways are bad, but you also don't want it bathed in the stuff either. There should be a few ports on the carriage to lube up. With light use, you probably won't need to do it more than a couple times a month, but keep an eye on the ways to make sure they always have oil.
Also, if you do any grinding, sanding, polishing - anything at all that has abrasives: cover your bed! Those little abrasive particles get caught up in the heavy way oil and end up sanding your ways. I just throw some news paper down and toss it when I'm done. Some guys use rags, but those make me nervous about getting caught up in the lead screw.
How about non-detergent 30W in the gearcase for break-in oil?
That is what was used in mine. Gamet bearings.....
Can this oil be bought locally? If not, where's a good place to order it?
Comes in the care package. LOL
LegDeLimber
Addicted to ArboristSite
always keep the tailstock hole, plugged (dead center is handy, and least in your way)
and Always double check it for *any* chips or debris
before popping in the next drill bit, center, chuck etc.
Anything gets pressed in there craters up a lump and then tools won't hold, like the flywheel taper cleanliness issue.
drills spinning will grab and bend, twist workpieces out of the chuck (damage to work then)
keep your quill retracted when it's not in use helps with keeping that part clean.
Always clean the ways before moving the tailstock, chips or dirt crunched under the t'stock
makes a lump that lifts the saddle,as it pass over and makes lumps or grooves in the work.
and Always double check it for *any* chips or debris
before popping in the next drill bit, center, chuck etc.
Anything gets pressed in there craters up a lump and then tools won't hold, like the flywheel taper cleanliness issue.
drills spinning will grab and bend, twist workpieces out of the chuck (damage to work then)
keep your quill retracted when it's not in use helps with keeping that part clean.
Always clean the ways before moving the tailstock, chips or dirt crunched under the t'stock
makes a lump that lifts the saddle,as it pass over and makes lumps or grooves in the work.
Good points. I wonder if you could float the tailstock like on a Hardinge? Na. Ways not big enough. Too bad.
stihl038x2
ArboristSite Operative
HMMMMM......... Colchester, I presume
Steve
Good guess. It is a short list. LOL
Graziano. Bought out now by Maho-Deckel I think.
