And PINSTRIPING and An ICEE Two Tone Blue Flame job to go with the cooler.
Enough for the derail
Sorry couldn't resist..
What makes a "Fast Cycle" splitter?
- Thread starter papossefan
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Enough for the derail
Sorry couldn't resist..
Larger volume oil tank and extra OIL would be economical but bulky and troublesome in portable applications.
firmwood
ArboristSite Operative
Economical? I used a partial roll of 3/4" copper hvac tubing. That's my return from filter to tank. Left in coil shape, color, shaped fancy, and effective!
3 birds one stone!
Extra oil is not economical. Not this day and age. The price of 40gal atf vs a new 16gal cheap 2stage. It was cheaper to run a wix 51551, used motor oil, a big magnet on the bottom of the tank, and take the chance ruining a pump vs buying new fluid.
5 years, 50cord later, still pegs 3000psi without issue, on drain oil.
I was impressive with a vickers vane, now I'm even more impressed on drain oil with a gear setup.
Sent from my s-off'ed m7 with cm11!
3 birds one stone!
Extra oil is not economical. Not this day and age. The price of 40gal atf vs a new 16gal cheap 2stage. It was cheaper to run a wix 51551, used motor oil, a big magnet on the bottom of the tank, and take the chance ruining a pump vs buying new fluid.
5 years, 50cord later, still pegs 3000psi without issue, on drain oil.
I was impressive with a vickers vane, now I'm even more impressed on drain oil with a gear setup.
Sent from my s-off'ed m7 with cm11!
I really enjoyed this post Sorry for the earlier derail
There are so many concepts to sort out for each application..
Five years ago I built a processor for a guy and used a 7"x48" cylinder scrounged from a basket truck.
There won't be any Pictures as I caught him Stealing after the splitter was built.. we do not get along for some reason.
So many things everyone has touched on will help the next project immensely.
I had adjustable linkage to trip return short of full return. Had a heck of a Time getting knife angles right .Through the last few years I have mentally changed what I wish I would have done but OH WELL
a BIG THANKS
There are so many concepts to sort out for each application..
Five years ago I built a processor for a guy and used a 7"x48" cylinder scrounged from a basket truck.
There won't be any Pictures as I caught him Stealing after the splitter was built.. we do not get along for some reason.
So many things everyone has touched on will help the next project immensely.
I had adjustable linkage to trip return short of full return. Had a heck of a Time getting knife angles right .Through the last few years I have mentally changed what I wish I would have done but OH WELL
a BIG THANKS
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How about using a single stage pump with a 4 cyinder car engine? Plenty of them cheap, cheaper than Honda engines I should think. Single stage pumps are cheap and some, rebuildable. I have an old single stage setup with a 1600cc pinto engine. Only 6 gallons of oil and it never gets hot with 9 second times with a 5" × 24" ram and 2 & 1/2" rod. The fuel consumption is low as I run mostly at 500 - 600 rpm vs 3000 rpm for a 400cc unit. No secondary stage slowdown, no oil cooler needed and no bypasses. Why are people so reluctant to go with more power and single stage pumps?
firmwood
ArboristSite Operative
Oh I agree. Take you're setup, and use a ignition controlled cruise control unit. As you gag it out, she'll pull more throttle.
Everyone jumps on the 2 stage little Briggs because of up font cost and fab.
My next setup is a 1.3 fuel injected with cruise control throttle control. Obd2 too!
Last I I had it running on the garage floor with the complete wiring harness I had no check engine light.
Split green, with green emissions, both out of the stove and the equipment! How much green could you get!
Sent from my s-off'ed m7 with cm11!
Everyone jumps on the 2 stage little Briggs because of up font cost and fab.
My next setup is a 1.3 fuel injected with cruise control throttle control. Obd2 too!
Last I I had it running on the garage floor with the complete wiring harness I had no check engine light.
Split green, with green emissions, both out of the stove and the equipment! How much green could you get!
Sent from my s-off'ed m7 with cm11!
ChoppyChoppy
Tree Freak
ChoppyChoppy
Tree Freak
You have a 9 sec cycle with the pump at 500rpm or do you have a gearbox so the pump is spinning quicker?
Would using an engine much larger than needed to do the job result in higher fuel usage?
Would running a gasoline automobile engine at 5-600 rpm long term create engine damaging conditions?
It seems that using two speed pumps is as logical as using transmissions in automobiles.
Would running a gasoline automobile engine at 5-600 rpm long term create engine damaging conditions?
It seems that using two speed pumps is as logical as using transmissions in automobiles.
ChoppyChoppy
Tree Freak
Well 500-600rpm is under normal idle for most engines, so I'd expect it would cause some cylinder washing and or lugging if was put under some load. Would be best to at least run it in the 1000-1500ish area.
Not to mention if coupled to a pump you'd need to use a specialized low RPM pump or a gear box or some kind to step up the revs. Or a really high flow pump so at idle it still can flow 20-30gpm.
Not to mention if coupled to a pump you'd need to use a specialized low RPM pump or a gear box or some kind to step up the revs. Or a really high flow pump so at idle it still can flow 20-30gpm.
firmwood
ArboristSite Operative
Still more then my pump. I bought a cheapo.
Sent from my s-off'ed m7 with cm11!
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I have no idea on pump size as it was on it when I got it and any numbers are on the mounted side so not accesible unless removed but that splitter works fine at idle. And 500 - 600 rpm is a fine idle for those older engines. And no, no cylinder washing either. A very big tough knotted piece (24" round with 6" knot) will need maybe 1200 - 1500 rpm which decreases cycle time to around 7 seconds.
Because of the cost of a factory built splitter being cheaper than buying all the parts and building your own, I would think most folks that do build their own do so with parts on hand or easily scrounged. My current splitter is all build from parts I had or scrounged, but I did buy some new parts when I went to making improvements. I actually started with a Vickers vane pump I picked up out of the mud at a scrap yard, gave $2 for it. I had a 25hp Kholer engine I took off a piece of equipment I was no longer using. Picking up scrap metal for free or almost free, I was able to put together a pretty decent wood splitter. I plumbed it with used hoses and fittings. That 25hp kholer engine was almost $2000 new, no way I would have bought that motor new just to build a wood splitter with. I think most people pretty much copy something someone else has put together and most folks will use a small gas engine and a two stage pump. Auto engines usually require radiators and some fancy cobbeling to hook a pump to, are large and heavy, and probably way overkill just to split wood with. Who am I to talk, I am planning on a 7.3 or B6 cummins diesel for my current build and just hoping I have the hp I need.
Some of us build because no one offers what we have in our head to suit ones situation. Plus it's fun to do it.
Kevin, your an exception no doubt. I'm just plain crazy
Kevin, your an exception no doubt. I'm just plain crazy
I totally agree with you that even if you have some of the components, it's cheaper to buy it all done new. They must get crazy discounts when buying in bulk on components. You're crazy and I'm nuts, see you at the asylum!
firmwood
ArboristSite Operative
I agree.
Little 2" bore , 1" ram 12" stroke to crush cans. Thsi is the most dangerous one. I need to get a flow restricter. This one shoots out like a rocket too.
4" with fat ram return for general wood splitting.
6" with 5.5" ram to squeeze rims. Enough stroke to crumple semi rims. I wanted the iron when prices were good. And Less work then spooning off the rubber. I'll be honest, 40 squashed semi rims blows the ass out of a ton truck. Only fills the bed 3/4 full too. Haha. They look like short fat bacon strips.
A long stroke 5" with a 1" ram, 8ft long, for pulling steel beads out of tires.
All with snap couplers on the spools, so one gas sipper to run them all.
Sent from my s-off'ed m7 with cm11!
Little 2" bore , 1" ram 12" stroke to crush cans. Thsi is the most dangerous one. I need to get a flow restricter. This one shoots out like a rocket too.
4" with fat ram return for general wood splitting.
6" with 5.5" ram to squeeze rims. Enough stroke to crumple semi rims. I wanted the iron when prices were good. And Less work then spooning off the rubber. I'll be honest, 40 squashed semi rims blows the ass out of a ton truck. Only fills the bed 3/4 full too. Haha. They look like short fat bacon strips.
A long stroke 5" with a 1" ram, 8ft long, for pulling steel beads out of tires.
All with snap couplers on the spools, so one gas sipper to run them all.
Sent from my s-off'ed m7 with cm11!
When I built mine, I had a 4x24 cylinder, an 18hp engine, a 28gpm 2 stage pump, and 3/4" hoses. It was a speed demon, but the tank wasn't thought out very well and only held about 15 gallons. I had a sheet ton of turbulence in the tank to the point that if I put a vented tank cap on it, it would spew oil. Heat buildup was an issue too. If I were to do it again, I would double the tank size and put baffles in to smooth the turbulence inside the tank. I used to have visions of a small diesel running a single stage pump but then I laid (layed?) the crack pipe down and came back to reality.
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