What saw/bar for really big stumps?

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BCstumper

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I have a olmpik with 20 inch bar, I know it was my dads, anyway have real hard time going thru 60 inch stumps. Mainly using saw on stumps. Thought about Dolmar 7900 with 32, but dont know if enought power. What are you guys using or recomend.



Brian
 
I have a olmpik with 20 inch bar, I know it was my dads, anyway have real hard time going thru 60 inch stumps. Mainly using saw on stumps. Thought about Dolmar 7900 with 32, but dont know if enought power. What are you guys using or recomend.



Brian

Get the absolute biggest one you can afford and then save even a little longer and get the next size up from that.

I say 394/395 or 066/660 would be the min. size you'd want on a stump that size.

I have a 394xp with a 32" bar and it's still a chore to flush cut a stump that big.
 
I use a 395xp 36" bar that I bought used specifically for that purpose.

gr8scott72, when you say that it is a chore, are you having problems, or just that it is a lot of work from dealing with a big saw??

My saw will cut to the depth of the bar width, and then stop. Chain still turning, but just won't cut.

I'm on my 3rd bar, & don't remember how many chains, & it all helps for a cut or 2, but then it'll do the same thing. Now when it's on, it's on. Tons of power, & cuts like butter. But suddenly, it'll decide to stop, and that's it.

My dealer says that as long as it's running good (which it runs great) it has to be the bar or chain.

But I get very few cuts, & a lot of aggravation from this. Wonderin' if you have experienced this problem??
 
I use a 395xp 36" bar that I bought used specifically for that purpose.

gr8scott72, when you say that it is a chore, are you having problems, or just that it is a lot of work from dealing with a big saw??

My saw will cut to the depth of the bar width, and then stop. Chain still turning, but just won't cut.

I'm on my 3rd bar, & don't remember how many chains, & it all helps for a cut or 2, but then it'll do the same thing. Now when it's on, it's on. Tons of power, & cuts like butter. But suddenly, it'll decide to stop, and that's it.

My dealer says that as long as it's running good (which it runs great) it has to be the bar or chain.

But I get very few cuts, & a lot of aggravation from this. Wonderin' if you have experienced this problem??

Sounds like you have burs on the side of your bar. When was the last time you filed your bar back flat?
 
I use a 394 with a 36 in bar. Sawing off stumps is hard on a bar and chain and yourself. I have several different bars and always use the shortest one I can cut the stump with.
 
Sounds like you have burs on the side of your bar. When was the last time you filed your bar back flat?





I've been told that also, but this particular bar is less than 2 weeks old.

I was working on one particularly big stump when I had to put this new bar on it. It was a bear of a stump. 12' tip to tip at the roots and 6' tall. When I finally got it cut down, I figured that that chain might need changing, so I put on a sharp one. It stopped on the first cut. This was a vertical cut.

I finally got it cut in half which was still too big for my 352 machine to push out of the way. Luckily the customer's neighbor had an excavator and could move it for me.
 
Sounds like you have burs on the side of your bar. When was the last time you filed your bar back flat?





I've been told that also, but this particular bar is less than 2 weeks old.

I was working on one particularly big stump when I had to put this new bar on it. It was a bear of a stump. 12' tip to tip at the roots and 6' tall. When I finally got it cut down, I figured that that chain might need changing, so I put on a sharp one. It stopped on the first cut. This was a vertical cut.

I finally got it cut in half which was still too big for my 352 machine to push out of the way. Luckily the customer's neighbor had an excavator and could move it for me.

It still sounds like your bar is burred. It can happen pretty quick. It's easy to fix tho. Just take your bar off and lay it flat on your workbench and file the edges with a flat file until there is no more lip that catches on your fingernail. Long bars seem to get burs quicker than short ones in my experience.
 
It still sounds like your bar is burred. It can happen pretty quick. It's easy to fix tho. Just take your bar off and lay it flat on your workbench and file the edges with a flat file until there is no more lip that catches on your fingernail. Long bars seem to get burs quicker than short ones in my experience.

Could also be the chain. What type of chain are you using?
 
be very wary of loose chains when flushing stumps too. I was flushing a 4' pin oak stump on sat with the 880 and didn't realize the chain was a little loose. Couldn't cut straight at all. After I tightened it, straight as an arrow. On long bars especially chains need to be correctly tightened..... Mike
 
Could also be the chain. What type of chain are you using?

OK buddy. Now you're gonna make me show my ignorance here. I really don't know what type of chain I use. It's whatever my dealer sells me.


Now I have noticed that I've got a lot of play in my saw. Seems like my grommets could use some upgrading. Could this be a contributing factor??

And btw, Scott, the bar seems smooth. I wish it could be that easy of a fix. Thanks.
 
I use a couple of different saws, 088 with 21" bar or 36" 660 with 20" or 25". I tend to use the 088 with 21" and cut the stump like slices of cake since it's easier to move than struggling with a large ring of timber ! Thats if I have not got my S600 skidsteer on site or can't push the top off with the carlton. With regards to saw not cutting have you checked the saw is oiling enough ? it sounds like no or not enough oil ?
 
stihl 660 with 32" bar is what I run and it works just fine. The 660 will pull a bigger bar and chain if you need but, I'd jump up to an 880 if I was doing bigger than 36".
 
I use a couple of different saws, 088 with 21" bar or 36" 660 with 20" or 25". I tend to use the 088 with 21" and cut the stump like slices of cake since it's easier to move than struggling with a large ring of timber ! Thats if I have not got my S600 skidsteer on site or can't push the top off with the carlton. With regards to saw not cutting have you checked the saw is oiling enough ? it sounds like no or not enough oil ?

Oiler works fine. Both fuel & oil tank seem to run pretty even. And it slinge it off the end of the chain between cuts.

Took it back today. Maybe it's just my sharpening skills. My dealer got it to work fine after he sharpened it. Bought a new chain. I'll work on my others & try to get them sharp. Thanks for the suggestions.
 
Could it be the kerf closing on you. You could hammer a wedge in the kerf to keep it open.

Also if you are pivoting against the dogs, there comes a point where you hit the muffler and won't pivot anymore.

Obvious things you probably already thought about.

I have a 372 with a 24" bar. All I need most of the time.
 
My stump saws.
newer ms460 DP cover 25" B/C
Old 066 red light 36" B/C
when cutting stump use woodsman pro 30rc chain. It's cheap sharpens easy with hand file.
mesaw001.jpg
 
Did this just happen on this particular stump, or does this keep happening. Mite be a rock, or metal fence post in that stump.
 

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