Add an out board drip type oiler at the tip of the saw. Not hard to make your own. water or something like canola or vegtable oil for lube. Dino stuff will mess with any type of finish applied down the road.
what to buy for a chainsaw mill- rookie
- Thread starter T-Dozzer
- Start date
Help Support Arborist Forum:
T-Dozzer
ArboristSite Operative
Whats "dino stuff"?
Petroleum based products- Gas oil diesel ect. , If you are milling for rough construction no problem using what ever. But if milling for nice wood working projects or selling milled boards for same then the issue of the dino stuff arises when trying to put a finish on the material. petroleum products soaked into the wood will have adverse affects on a lot of the finishes available. Even the vegie oils can cause some problems depending on the finish material.
All oils cause problems. We used to see "Spittle stains" a lot with Red oak when I was doing a lot of staircases in the '90s.
The biodegradable oil get "eaten" sooner by bacteria and break down (vegetable oil).
Eventually Petroleum oils would also but it takes much longer.
Using "Benite" or clear stain base as a sealer before staining wood helps balance any oil throughout the area of wood.
The biodegradable oil get "eaten" sooner by bacteria and break down (vegetable oil).
Eventually Petroleum oils would also but it takes much longer.
Using "Benite" or clear stain base as a sealer before staining wood helps balance any oil throughout the area of wood.
Be careful when using water or canola. I used water in an Aux Oiler for about 6 weeks before I noticed increased B&C wear. Maybe it was the canola I used but I found that canola needs to be cleaned up and emptied out of the Aux oiler reservoir if you are going to store the mll for any more than a few months as it starts to polymerise - goes sticky, and can even go hard and gum up your oiler. Certainly do not use it in the saw itself. I have not had any problems with oil stains. I think it's maybe because Aussie hardwood sawdust is an extremely good absorber of oil and besides being hard wood, the wood is also a poor oil absorber.
T-Dozzer
ArboristSite Operative
You can start complaining when you have a bunch of 60" loops to hand file.You fellas didn't warn me I would be filing so muchguess its time for a grinder.
Beetlejuice
Addicted to ArboristSite
I need advise.. ,(there's a news flash)..anyway, just starting the milling process, kinda,. I practiced on soft wood like cedar and pine with my Homey 1050 and 404, 30" bar. Did real good till a small fuel problem.. Anyway,, blew the dust off a Jonsered 2094, bought a 36" bar and 404 chain to match just to find 3/8 pitch rim sprocket on the machine.. Dug around in the shop and found a 404 R. S. But it's an 8 toothe. My question is, do you people in the know think this saw (97cc) will handle the extra toothe? And a full comp chain? Runs real well..
T-Dozzer
ArboristSite Operative
Yikes! Haha...
Curious why your hand filing on jobs like that. I appreciate the control you get from hand filing (Im sure your pretty good), but it seems folks are getting good results from the granberg 12 volt grinder. Maybe some other benchtop grinders as well.
Ive been leaning toward the granberg or an oregon grinder & hand filing on touch ups.
Any other grinders worth my time? I dont mind paying for quality.
Brian72
ArboristSite Guru
You'll lose torque going with a bigger sprocket. Not saying it won't work. I've never tried it. I like skip chain for milling. You'll get better chip clearance.
Sent from my Moto E (4) using Tapatalk
Beetlejuice
Addicted to ArboristSite
404 full comp was all I could find at the time.. Would have to order a loop of skip.. And the sprocket just happen to be the one I have.. Well try it and go easy.. Thanks.. I'll try to report in
I did start 55 years ago when my old dad showed me how he did it. If he were stilll alive today I'd have a discussion with him on how he coudl have done it better!
I have several 12V grinder and have used them a few times. Also have access to an Oregon Grinder and used to use it to get all the cutters the same length but stopped doing that in 2008.
I pay as much attention, maybe more, to the rakers than I do to the cutters. Getting the raker angle right and rounding the raker over is a manual process that no current grinder can do accurately.
But mostly its because I can touch up a 42" chain on the mill faster than I can swap the chain out AND I don't have to take the saw out of the mill to swap chains.
On the 60" bars I can swap chains about as fast as I can touch up but seeing as I often touch up after every tank of mix I would need dozens of loops for a days work with the 60" bars.
BJ the 8 pin should be fine.
Beetlejuice
Addicted to ArboristSite
Many thanks.. Put my mind at ease
Well if you want a real work out hand filling come and see my when I have the 8ft (205 dl) .404 full comp loops to do.
Beetlejuice
Addicted to ArboristSite
I invested in a metal detector. I know I won't catch everything but boost the odds of not hitting anything.. I don't want to tune up 101 dl's 404, full comp, let alone twice that many.. Sounds like a six-pack sharpening.
