What would cause the starter rope on my splitter to do this?

[PA. Woodsman]

I have a Brave 24 ton splitter, and it's always been tough to start because there is no primer button, but I eventually get it started. Today, it started, and the starter rope went limp, and it made a very loud "whhhrrrr" noise for a couple of seconds. I thought I had pulled the rope off as it wouldn't recoil back in, but then it slowly did. I figured I better just keep filling it with gas and working, thinking if it shut off I wouldn't get it started again, would have to take it apart and try to reattach it, but when I shut it off I tried to restart it and it fired right up, like nothing had happened? Don't get me wrong, I'm very glad, but any thoughts on that loud noise and what could have happened?

Thank you....

 

[CaseyForrest]

There is a recoil spring inside the housing that recoils the rope after pulling. There are tabs on either end that lock the spring into the housing and recoil assembly. It sounds like one of those tabs may have broken. Should be 3 or 4 10mm or so sized nuts/bolts to pull the entire housing off....

 

[CaseyForrest]

Strike that... I just re-read your post....

I don't know.

 

[Rockjock]

I have seen the pawls get caked up with schmutz they do not extend fully . I would take the recoil off and have a good look at it. A cleaning and lubrication would be a good bit of PM Honda engine? Metal or plastic ?

 

[Sandhill Crane]

Jabroni?

 

[mga]

WD 40

 

[Trapper_Pete]

recoil starters only have so many starts in them, so if you spend 20 minutes pulling for one start that is a bunch of life taken form your recoil starter before something breaks.

I would have suspected a spring let loose from your initial description but you say ok now so probably not that

I found turning off the gas and letting the unit run dry to shut it down the turning the gas back on when ready to use again and about 2 easy pulls to turn it over then one good pull and mine starts right up , if I turn of the kill switch and leave it days or a week it is always harder to start than if I turned off the fuel.

my theory isn't so much that the gas needs to be turned off to keep from flooding it but that it vapor locks because when fuel warms and cools if expands and contracts a bunch and causes vapor , with a tight sealed gas can you can see it bulge and colaps even when your talking the difference of 15 and 30 degrees.
a primer is often really more of an air purge and that is what gets it ready to start.

if you have a fuel shut off try that because it is free , and if not install a in line primer bulb.


edited : I typed that from my phone last night but as I read it this morning it occurred to me if your going to install a primer add a fuel shut off also if you don't have one.

 

[panolo]

Probably dirty and the pawl is hitchy, although springs do wear out. The noise is common because when the tension is off the recoil it is supposed to retract as to not keep being wound by the cup. Recoil's are very simple. Just keep your patience and watch a you tube video if you get stuck. They are all basically the same.

 

[Frogfarmer]

If it's and older Briggs with a one way starter clutch they will do exactly as you have stated. The clutch wears because it rides on the crankshaft and very seldom do they get any oil. In the shop we remove the clutch clean the crankshaft and install a new clutch.

 

[sb47]

The recoil spring on mine went out but luckily it had a hub like the old motors had where you could just hand wind it.
I replaced it with another spare I had but it soon went out as well. So it's back to the hand wound rope.
I did have to cut a grove with a angle grinder for the knot in the rope to fit into.
Not as handy as a recoil starter but it still works.

 

[PA. Woodsman]

Thanks for the replies, I'll open it up and take a look at it!

 

[sb47]

I would say because I have to hand wind mine I can use a longer rope. That gives me 9 turns on the hub. Makes for easy starting. I can really get that sucker spinning.

 

[chads]

Dont put oil on it use a dry lube.
I oiled one once and the oil caused it to stick a bit and it didn't work.
I think it was the type with little balls in it but it's been a long time.
Chad

 

[lefturnfreek]

Yes, do not oil or grease the recoil spring. Dirt, wood chips .... will get stuck in there so fast and will not clear.

Clean it, the inner piece the rope wraps around and the cover with your choice of solvent, and reassemble. If the rope is questionable, replace it while you got it apart.

 

[PA. Woodsman]

I used it today, didn't do a thing to it, just wanted to see what would happen when I went to start it and it started on the 2nd or 3rd pull; i fact, it ran better than it ever did! So whatever that was straightened itself out thankfully!

 

[sb47]

I used it today, didn't do a thing to it, just wanted to see what would happen when I went to start it and it started on the 2nd or 3rd pull; i fact, it ran better than it ever did! So whatever that was straightened itself out thankfully!

Mine sits outside and it started hanging up every now and then but it would always correct itself. Until one day when I gave it a pull and the spring assembly gave out completely. Rust is what killed mine. My splitter is about 15 years old and has sat outside the whole time with no cover.
Might try some spray silicone instead of oil.