Very nice! That thing is a beast.
What's on your bench
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yup. they work great. and lift right off when you don't need them.So…strap-ons?
Thanks for sharing this, it has lead me down a bit of a rabit hole of experimentation... 1 thing I just noticed was the video you later referenced recommended a concentration considerably stronger than your recipe... wondering if you found it similarly effective being that much more diluted or possibly if you ment to say litres not gallons?
You tube link for reference...
With regards to my experimentation... I required a rust removal process that would affect zinc (galvanising) as minimally as possible. I have access to a few acids so made up a number of batches using different acids to balance the pH of the Tetrasodium EDTA.
I found that Phosphoric+Oxalic (14:1), Formic, & HCl all worked considerably better than Citric Acid for rust removal. Sodium Bisulfate & Sulfuric performed similarly to the citric, & Acetic (vinegar) was slightly less effective.
With regard to the galvanising, all (including actual Evaporust) reacted with it to some degree. The Formic acid removed it extremely well. Phosphoric, Citric, Sulfuric, & Acetic all had a significant effect on it. The HCl was by far the slowest to react with the galvanising, it did take more off than Evaporust did, but only slightly.
If anyone would like any more details or to know how the various mixes react in another situations I'd be happy to do what i can. Thinking I might try a few other common metals for reactivity... stainless, aluminium, etc. Open to any other suggestions
I found that Phosphoric+Oxalic (14:1), Formic, & HCl all worked considerably better than Citric Acid for rust removal. Sodium Bisulfate & Sulfuric performed similarly to the citric, & Acetic (vinegar) was slightly less effective.
With regard to the galvanising, all (including actual Evaporust) reacted with it to some degree. The Formic acid removed it extremely well. Phosphoric, Citric, Sulfuric, & Acetic all had a significant effect on it. The HCl was by far the slowest to react with the galvanising, it did take more off than Evaporust did, but only slightly.
If anyone would like any more details or to know how the various mixes react in another situations I'd be happy to do what i can. Thinking I might try a few other common metals for reactivity... stainless, aluminium, etc. Open to any other suggestions
interesting. I thought I was using the same ratios provided in the YouTube video. I will watch it again and check. I have not tried it on anything galvanized but if it removes galvanizing that would open up an avenue for using galvanized stuff for welding projects. I do remember that in the video he mentioned changing the mix ratios didn't affect the process much. you seem to have found otherwise.
I didn't change the ratios as such, I made 1 3L batch of the EDTA solution & split that into 400ml portions. All the acids added were concentrated so the amount used was only around 10ml & there was no more than 10ml variation across all solutions. The exception was Acetic acid, as vinegar is only 5% acetic... in this case I made 200ml of EDTA @ 10g/100ml, balanced it with ~100ml vinegar then added demineralised water to bring the total up to 410ml.
In your recipe the chemical proportions are more or less the same, but you are diluting them nearly 4x more. If this was working effectively for you I might try diluting some of my samples & comparing effectiveness.
If you wish to remove galvanising the Formic acid solution did by far the best job, not sure how many people will have access to that though. Both Citric & Acetic (vinegar) acid mixes removed galvanising at close to the same rate as they removed rust. The vinegar mix was just a bit slower in general
Chopping up the tail to move up a mount size and test cheap chain with eight pin lp 60cc setups.
Finally got my hands on a Poulan 5200. Not pretty but it is functional, runs good. Gonna go through the carb for good measure. It’s had crank bearings and seals from what I’m told. Can’t wait to get it in some wood.
There is a good reason most 5200, 5400, and 8500 saws look well used...they were.
Mark
Mark
whupped up a little (75lb or so) stand out of scrap 
so I can roll my big vise outside to hold work for those messy grinding and sanding jobs that trash out my shop.
so I can roll my big vise outside to hold work for those messy grinding and sanding jobs that trash out my shop.ok, enough with the strap ons. you got a thing for that I guess?
the ones on my smaller vise are Wilton and the ones on the bigger vise are by Palmgren. I like the Palmgrens better but they are both good. got the Palmgrens from H&W Machine Repair.
https://machinerypartsdepot.com/pro...RQr1GoFt6IZodCY_OQ7TRSsIxq9Wqop4aAtYcEALw_wcB
Chainsaw Collectors
ArboristSite Guru
I just got done wining the battle of inserting a new high quality Tygon fuel line into the fuel tank of my Homelite EZ AO. Now to reassemble it.
Picked up a Pioneer 1200A at the local auction for $20. After getting it home it reads 130 PSI cold and has spark. The gas in it was putrid. Off to the local saw shop for a carb kit and some fuel line and I'll see if I can get this puppy running this weekend!
Chainsaw Collectors
ArboristSite Guru
You have a local saw shop that carries carb kits? I wish I did. Nice.
that's what I was thinking. and for old saws apparently.
I'd suspect he's about to discover it's never quite that easy
