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My dad came over for dinner today and dropped off some more 10-10 Mccullochs. One running Pro Mac 10-10s, and two Pro Mac 10-10's, both had electronic ignition. One of the Pro Macs has been a little cannibalized for some parts, but the other seems complete minus bar and chain. If it has spark i bet it will run.
Make sure to pressure test the fuel tanks and vacuum test the fuel caps. Nice looking saw in the first pic.
 
Make sure to pressure test the fuel tanks and vacuum test the fuel caps. Nice looking saw in the first pic.

Thank you, that 10-10S is pretty clean and has a longer bar, which i will have to measure when i have a chance.

To be honest I've never pressure tested a fuel tank, what would i be looking for by doing this? Leaking tank or leaking check valve in the carb? I'm guessing I'd need something with a Schrader valve to attach to the tank neck?

I have a kit for pressure testing cooling systems, but that's it.
 
I sent you a PM of a couple of vids I did on youtube on how to test the fuel cap and tank, I also have a vid on rebuilding the cap if needed. If you have to replace the fuel line or fuel tank gasket get the ProLine gasket and fuel line.
 
got my old stihl 028av up on the bench waiting for parts and a lot of research to do yet on the parts and wear there made. I plan on doing my first case up rebuild and a mild port job on the saw going down to a machine shop today to see if they can do decking looking to make a little medium hot saw out of this old gem I hope to learn a lot. hope everyone is finding there answers to there saws on there bench. arborist site rocks I am happy I joined it lots of helpful nice folks. :rock2::reading::drinkingcoffee::rock:rock on:guitar:
 
Went to a machine shop this morning the don't do decking might need to send the cylinder to Myrtle Creek saw shop Richard will get in the right hands this saw is going to cost a small fortune to build. Looking forward to draining the bank account ha ha think I am going to pollish the cases and the bar cover resourcing a welder to tune the exaust to a dual port more air more fuel more power wish I had a saw close to ring the pipes of of need to calm my nerves.:blob2::rock2:
 
I sent you a PM of a couple of vids I did on youtube on how to test the fuel cap and tank, I also have a vid on rebuilding the cap if needed. If you have to replace the fuel line or fuel tank gasket get the ProLine gasket and fuel line.
Do you mind sending that to me? I have 3 caps. All have the metal vent tube made into the cap with the 90 degree metal piece that exits the side of tje cap.(hope that makes sense)
They all pass air both ways, so no check valve. Was wondering about those.
 
Do you mind sending that to me? I have 3 caps. All have the metal vent tube made into the cap with the 90 degree metal piece that exits the side of tje cap.(hope that makes sense)
They all pass air both ways, so no check valve. Was wondering about those.
If it's silver in color they aren't rebuildable to my knowledge. If the inserts are brass then it's easy
 
Testing the fuel line and gasket on fuel tank just pull the line from the carb and connect there for pressure test.
 
I always get the obsolete projects. I finished a Sachs Dolmar 133 and had to get three parts from Germany's eBay. I was surprised at how many parts I was able to get on the USA eBay.

My new project is a Makita 95cc concrete saw. $200 for a new SEM GA ignition module. I think it's a PCD9501 or something like that. Don't know what year it is. Took the muffler off and it looks good in the cylinder walls.

I'll be keeping both of these.
 
Well I had a chance to look at the SP40 a little bit, and so far i am optimistic.

Recoil spool is busted, which explains why the recoil works like crap, also no preload on the spring, clearly a failed repair attempt by someone less knowledgeable.

Also, i think i found the culprit for it not running, busted fuel line right on the carb, which makes me happy, easy fix if that's all it was!

I like this saw better than a mini mac already, look how easy I can access the carb, coil, etc!!

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Also, i think i found the culprit for it not running, busted fuel line right on the carb, which makes me happy, easy fix if that's all it was!

I like this saw better than a mini mac already, look how easy I can access the carb, coil, etc!!

I like that they didn't put the fuel tank on the starter housing like they did with the PM6. It's a pain having to deal with the molded fuel line you have to have in order for it to work.
 
Next on the bench is a PM 700. I've had this one for a long time as well and seemed to have good compression when it showed up so I'm hopeful this one doesn't need much more than some gaskets/carb rebuild/new fuel line/new inner and outer bar plates/fuel cap rebuild/new air filter/new spark plug/new starter rope and a good cleaning.

I've actually already rebuilt the carb/rebuilt the fuel cap and have a new fuel line/new spark plug/new air filter waiting for it as well as have a new fuel tank gasket in case it needs it. I also have a new dust guard if this one is busted up.

I was originally going to keep this as my 70cc saw but now that I have the 372's I have decided I'm just going to fix this one up and ebay it. I also decided that I'm going to let my new 372-XT go as well once I get my OEM 372 OE built.
Mac1.jpg Mac2.jpg
 
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Another plot twist on the Super Pro 40, i had to measure to be sure but sure enough it has a 1/4 pitch chain, I've never used this stuff!

Why would Mcculloch put 1/4 chain on a 40cc saw, and 3/8 LP on a 30cc Mini-Mac??
 
View attachment 783662

Another plot twist on the Super Pro 40, i had to measure to be sure but sure enough it has a 1/4 pitch chain, I've never used this stuff!

Why would Mcculloch put 1/4 chain on a 40cc saw, and 3/8 LP on a 30cc Mini-Mac??
Are you able to get a rim/drum setup and convert it over? My PM6's are 1/4 but I just left them that way.
 
Are you able to get a rim/drum setup and convert it over? My PM6's are 1/4 but I just left them that way.

I do have a clutch drum in 3/8 from a Mini-Mac that would go right on, but since the 1/4 chain that came with it looks good and is razor sharp (i don't think it was ever used, which is strange) and I've read good things about 1/4, I'm going to keep it as is.

I am more so curious why Mcculloch would go with 1/4 on a 40cc saw.
 
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