Stateline Sawer
ArboristSite Operative
I understand completely! Those are good, good saws! Was also impressed by a 359 that came by my bench recently, it needed "help" but ended up a true screamer!Sentimental value and all.
I understand completely! Those are good, good saws! Was also impressed by a 359 that came by my bench recently, it needed "help" but ended up a true screamer!Sentimental value and all.
Maybe...I haven't fiddled with a 357xp yet. LolMy brother in-law has two 359's. They are great saws but I think the 357 xp's are a touch better.
Those Dolmars are so we'll built! I need another little guy like I need a hole in the head, but I'm not complaing at all! Lol.That should be a keeper. It looks in good shape.
@lostone the key is there just to align the flywheel not to hold it. Pressure does that. Just stick it back on where the key was and it’s good to go.OK, the second 372 build fought me tooth and nail and pretty much had me on the ropes. It was hard to start and acted like the low side jet was clogged, I could try to tune it but it was a dog coming up to rpm so I decided fine I will swap out the OEM carb that I rebuilt and put the China special on it, NO GO, it wouldn't even hit. Now I'm frustrated and order a new OEM carb but while waiting on the new carb to get here I tear apart the used OEM I had on it and check all the passages and it acts like it's working fine so then I tear apart the China special carb and it's dry inside so then I check the lever and find it is set to low so I bend it to where it should be.
Fast forward, new carb shows up and I put it on the saw and I'm all happy to go test it out, same thing, Low end doesn't want to tune and then I hear POP and now I know I have a timing issue so I pull the OEM flywheel off and look at the key and see it is sheered so I put a China special flywheel on and she runs hard and strong now. I'll get me another used OEM and replace it but this build has fought me the entire build compared to the Huztl/OEM/Aftermarket build I did, it went together and was running like a cheetah out of the gate.
In the end I made sure, even with the fight, that this saw was built right and running right.
71-78! That’s a huge jump. Hopefully case compression will be okay. Nobody likes a lazy saw. Did you grind it that far or was there machine work involved?Progress on my jonsered 2094 turbo. Case is sealed up gasket trimmed out. New bearings/seals installed (metal cage) and hyway pop up for husky 395 and caber rings. Opened up muffler port to 75% and gutted baffles. Finished porting it this morning. Stock was 106,126,71. I went with 103,126,78. Widened intake and exhaust and upper transfers. Few more parts to show up before she can fireView attachment 899103
Some grind and some gasket delete. If you watch the break in video I posted it isn’t lazy one bit71-78! That’s a huge jump. Hopefully case compression will be okay. Nobody likes a lazy saw. Did you grind it that far or was there machine work involved?
Some grind and some gasket delete. If you watch the break in video I posted it isn’t lazy one bit
That was what it was supposed to beThat was the link?
How's the 395 piston differ? Shorter skirts? No one size fits all numbers when it comes to porting.I generally take all my intake to 77-78. Stock numbers where for stock setup with stock piston. Final numbers are with 395 piston and gasket delete. I did not have to grind much. About.030”
I can’t remember the number for 395 piston before port but it’s in my notes
It’s a little shorter in the skirts and little thicker in the top. Took squish to .027” from .066” stock form. That’s also after gasket delete but gasket was only .012”. I got this idea from bayou country powersaws on utube. He did a similar build with a 2095.How's the 395 piston differ? Shorter skirts? No one size fits all numbers when it comes to porting.
Enter your email address to join: