What's on your bench

[Sierra_rider]

Finished the porting and head work on the bike. The head is tricky, as I had to take some material out of the chamber too...it's kinda the opposite of saw building. On saws, we're usually trying to shrink the chamber...on the bikes, you end up with too much compression if you just correct for squish...so you end up milling the chamber too.

 

[JoeMay]

Had to put my sunglasses on to look at your photos. That’s some real shiny metal. Nice work. Are bikes with engine modifications allowed to compete in sanctioned races in your area?

 

[Sierra_rider]

Had to put my sunglasses on to look at your photos. That’s some real shiny metal. Nice work. Are bikes with engine modifications allowed to compete in sanctioned races in your area?

Thanks, yeah no issues with engine mods for racing...only restriction is displacement, and that's just to layout the different classes. I don't really race any more, but the displacement classes are <200, 250, and open...regardless of whether it's 4 or 2 stroke...so my 300 would be in open and racing against 450 strokes.

 

[joe25DA]

Nothing as fun as Piss Revvers hot rod bike, my 48” Scag WB mower was slipping in 2nd gear. Slipped a bit when I first bought it second hand. Last year, my second with it it got worse. Pushing a de-thatcher didn’t help. If you’ve ever used a belt drive, second is the most used mow gear. A new peerless/tecumseh 5spd ranges 4-800. I bought a basket case “Landscapers pride” 48” without an engine for $60. Trans is the same, lines up bolts up. The added bonus is some good spare parts, wheels/tires, castor yokes, axles, fuel tank. Close to $1000 in parts.

 

[heimannm]

Back to this one...









I ended up robbing some parts from one of the better project saws to try and get this one together. Still looking for a starter base, starter drum, and the points actuator cam.

If anyone out there is willing and able to make a few small cams (I have an example to work from) I'm very interested. I don't have a cam follower for my little lathe and not sure I have the patience or skill set to put something together.

Mark

 

[Pioneer]

Something different on the bench. Another gas to electric conversion, this time a wild thing. The crank was corroded on the flywheel side where the seal would go, so that made it junk as it would never seal properly. However, the clutch side was clean so it was up for the conversion, not like it mattered much though as it only really needs to seal out dust in this application.

The crank was cut in half and the clutch side shaft was pushed out, and then bored out on the lathe to take the shaft of the electric motor. The flywheel side engine mounting holes on the case were cut down and a bracket was made to fit the motor. Everything mounts up using the new bracket and the old motor pan which was cut to allow the mounting ear halves to bolt up together and clamp down the stock bearing and seal.
Since the output shaft is retained, the stock clutch is used which allows change out of the sprocket, as well as shock absorption, flywheel effect, and the use of the chain brake.

Some right angle ears were made up out of aluminum and screwed into the case, a battery tray was made out of sheet steel and screwed down to these. The speed controller is held on by a bracket underneath the battery tray. The sending unit for the speed controller is mounted in the gas tank, and this is the only use for the tank right now.

The top cover was relieved of some reinforcing plastic inside to allow more room for the battery pack, and then super magnets were used on the case and the cover which allows for quick removal and is quite secure.

The system is 1500 watts, but could easily be doubled that amount as there's quite a bit of room for a bigger motor and more batteries. You could probably push it up to 4,000 to 5,000 watts if you used an umbilical and remote backpack, which would make it one serious electric saw. You would have to eliminate the clutch though as the stock clutch will already slip in the present configuration just like a stock saw would when the load gets too high.

 

[joe25DA]

Finished up this nice running Jonsered 621. I was selling it for repair, then I decided to get it running. It cleaned up well, cleaned and rebuilt the carb new fuel lines, switch was missing so I added one, wrong color for the top cover but that’s what I had on the shelf. Will go on now ready for work or a collection.

 

[heimannm]

The 621 is like the first OHV V8, just way ahead of everyone else at the time in terms of performance. The first new saw I ever bought was a 621 in 1981 as they were going out of production. I ran it hard with 16 and 24" bars for 25+ years before the PTO side bearing started turning balls loose.

Mark

 

[joe25DA]

The 621 is like the first OHV V8, just way ahead of everyone else at the time in terms of performance. The first new saw I ever bought was a 621 in 1981 as they were going out of production. I ran it hard with 16 and 24" bars for 25+ years before the PTO side bearing started turning balls loose.

Mark

Fired it up yesterday afternoon. It had sat in a 20* shed for a week, started on 2 pulls. Just a smooth running saw. I’ve had a few, very well made saws. This one has a period correct TOTAL 18” hard nose on it.

 

[Sierra_rider]

I made a throttle position sensor eliminator plug for my bike:

 

[Evan]

 

[Squareground3691]

View attachment 1054756

Truing a wheel eh ?

 

[Sierra_rider]

Porting a 261. Just tore it down and recorded the stock numbers.

 

[joe25DA]

My lovely wife was driving thru town last fall, called and said “there’s an orange snowblower for free down the street”. I hooked up the trailer and grabbed it. Too bad that old 7hp tecumseh snapped its con rod. I had a cool Mitsubishi 7hp salvaged from a 1987 toro snowblower. Kind of unique only offered a couple years. Had some fabrication to make it fit. Made a sleeve for the Shute crank to clear the muffler, some custom nuts to hold it to the snowblower frame and a sleeve adapter for the crank pulley. These engines used 7/8”, most Briggs and Tecs use 1”. Also trial and error for the belts but I found a set that fit. Oil change, grease all the fittings and drive line. Runs great. I don’t need another snowblower, have a nice old toro and I plow with my WH tractor but these were great machines.

 

[The Shooters Apprentice]

I finally got around to playing with the Pawn shop 365 special yesterday.

I knew from playing with it before i would start and idle, but only rev for about 3 seconds before tarting to bog out and die.

I decided to check the fuel filter and as soon as I popped open the cap and shown a light in the tank I knew what the issue was.

Someone put bar oil in the fuel tank.

So I drained it, rinsed it and put on a new fuel filter, and tried it. Better, but still bogging. Pulled the carb, and popped off the covers and the screen had a big hard wad blocking it. Blew it out with brake cleaner and put it all back together and now it won't even try to start, so I'm guessing I'm gonna have to put a new carb on it.

 

[J D]

I finally got around to playing with the Pawn shop 365 special yesterday.

I knew from playing with it before i would start and idle, but only rev for about 3 seconds before tarting to bog out and die.

I decided to check the fuel filter and as soon as I popped open the cap and shown a light in the tank I knew what the issue was.

Someone put bar oil in the fuel tank.

So I drained it, rinsed it and put on a new fuel filter, and tried it. Better, but still bogging. Pulled the carb, and popped off the covers and the screen had a big hard wad blocking it. Blew it out with brake cleaner and put it all back together and now it won't even try to start, so I'm guessing I'm gonna have to put a new carb on it.

View attachment 1055081

I'd say you've got a carb full of gunk that may have been "tuned" to that state.
Pull the carb apart completely & drop it in a jar of fuel overnight, then an ultrasonic cleaner if you have one (otherwise just blow the passages out with carb clean/wd40)
Assuming gaskets/ diaphragms are OK put it back together & set L & H back to factory turns & see where that gets you

 

[The Shooters Apprentice]

Well, now I'm highly confused. Working on the 365 special still here.

I took the carb apart again and found I put the fuel pump diaphragm in wrong. Corrected that and It fired right up 3rd pull, got it tuned and cut some wood with it.

However the little plastic throttle lever keeps popping off the carb.

I ended up ordering another cheap chinese carb off of amazon that came with all the fittings because it was cheaper then buying just the throttle lever piece and having it shipped.

Anyway, The carb on this saw has the impulse line on top of the carb, same as my 372 X-torq. It also has the choke lever sitting further back like the X-torq does, however, the compression relief on the xtorq saw is on the top of the jug, and this 365 has it on the side like my standard 372 does, but the carb on the standard 372 has the impulse line on the side of the carb, same as all the 372 carbs I'm seeing online and the same as my Jonsered 670s.

Anyone have any ideas here?

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

Well, now I'm highly confused. Working on the 365 special still here.

I took the carb apart again and found I put the fuel pump diaphragm in wrong. Corrected that and It fired right up 3rd pull, got it tuned and cut some wood with it.

However the little plastic throttle lever keeps popping off the carb.

I ended up ordering another cheap chinese carb off of amazon that came with all the fittings because it was cheaper then buying just the throttle lever piece and having it shipped.

Anyway, The carb on this saw has the impulse line on top of the carb, same as my 372 X-torq. It also has the choke lever sitting further back like the X-torq does, however, the compression relief on the xtorq saw is on the top of the jug, and this 365 has it on the side like my standard 372 does, but the carb on the standard 372 has the impulse line on the side of the carb, same as all the 372 carbs I'm seeing online and the same as my Jonsered 670s.

Anyone have any ideas here?

No idea- but judging on the state of the saw in question it could have been cobbled together from several donors in its had knocks lifetime.

 

[The Shooters Apprentice]

No idea- but judging on the state of the saw in question it could have been cobbled together from several donors in its had knocks lifetime.

It seems to run pretty good the way it is, so I'm not gonna mess with it other then installing the throttle lever when that carb kit comes in so I don't have to keep popping the air cover to fix it every few cuts.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

I now have three Stihls to be made runners of, an 011, an 026 and an 028. Amazingly I was told they all have an air leak, which I doubt. I was also given three saws to keep, a Poulan 2000, a Homelite 240 and a Mini Mac. I took the 2000, left the other two there...

I changed my mind and went back today to get the 240 and they not only gave me the 240 but a nice looking but dirty Poulan Super 25DA. Someone already snapped up the Mini Mac. I'm guessing the 25DA only needs a fuel line..

Checked out two saws today, the 25DA ran with just a squirt of gas in it so it just needs fuel line, or maybe carb cleaning. The 011, checked for air leak, did NOT have a leak. I think the owner gave me his runner by mistake. I'll check the other two when I get time..