Grizzly
ArboristSite Operative
jomoco said:It's not so much the type of chain you use, but rather the technique of making your cuts that matter.
Most pro's don't have a problem if they realise that palm doesn't cut like most any other wood or fiber. Palm likes to suck your bar in and resist any attempts to walk through your cut as you would normally do. Raw horse power and muscle will usually suffice to overcome this problem, but it's the palm heart at the top and the base cut at the bottom that require a special technique that most novice's are unaware of. Even with an 088 and a brand new chisel chain a base cut on an old date palm is challenging until you realise that by stabbing the bar in and walking it a little bit, and then pulling out and stabbing again a little further down the cut, is considerably easier than wrenching your saw around in the cut and tearing your anti-vibe mounts to shreads.
Date palm and other palms like filifera and robusta are very alike in that the base cuts are very difficult and particularly hard on both saw and arborist. The above mentioned stab and waggle technique has worked very well for me over the years, and I highly recommend you try it using all proper precautions that apply to any plunge cut.
Palm is highly acidic and loves to eat magnesium, clean your saws or pay the price!
jomoco
No wories on cleaning my saw. I do that at the end of every work day.