What's the real difference between Stihl Professional vs. Mid-Range Products

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dgj32784

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I ran a MS310 for years around the house for firewood and the occasional odd job and it was a reliable workhorse. I've now started doing more tree work on the side (mostly felling when someone wants something gone). I sold my MS310 a while back to offset the costs of picking up a lightly used 066, which I use for more significant sawing (and milling in the near future). Anyways, my forearms are tired of limbing with the 066 and I'd like to pick up a small- to mid-range saw for some in-tree use and on the ground limbing (and smaller bucking).

My question is what's the real difference between the small- to mid-range powerheads in the Professional versus Mid-range (Farm & Ranch Saws) product lines? The reason I ask is because the cost difference is significant. I would think that the financial investment in a Professional saw might not be warranted for someone who is not using the saw at least weekly. I can get a MS311 for a couple hundred less than a MS362, which is the crux of my post. Is there anything about the Professional line that would justify me making the additional investment? I’m probably looking at a monthly use frequency. Your thoughts on the subject are appreciated.

Thanks,
David
 
The pro saws vertically split case is more condusive to being repaired vs the clamshell design. It essentially is a lifetime investment because it can all be replaced.
 
Stihl doesn't really have any mid-range models currently - the ones they call "mid-range" really is pure consumer models, as they have plastic crank cases and a clamshell design.
 
Stihl doesn't really have any mid-range models currently - the ones they call "mid-range" really is pure consumer models, as they have plastic crank cases and a clamshell design.


Plastic "CRANK CASE" you been drinking again ST :jester:
 
here a good set up if u do tree part time,

Stihl 026- with 14 to 16 inches bar
Stihl 044 with 18 to 20 inches bar
066 with 24 to 32 inches bar
Shorter is the bar faster they cut.
 
I would seriously consider the MS261 if your thinking of the MS311. Cost is not much difference, power is not a real big difference and the weight is a large difference plus its a true pro saw. Limbing will be easier and so will climbing if you need to.
 
I would seriously consider the MS261 if your thinking of the MS311. Cost is not much difference, power is not a real big difference and the weight is a large difference plus its a true pro saw. Limbing will be easier and so will climbing if you need to.


This is what I was thinking. The MS261 will be a middle ground on price and I would think plenty for limbing.
 
This is what I was thinking. The MS261 will be a middle ground on price and I would think plenty for limbing.

I'll second that,I run a 261 everyday and it very well may be the best smaller saw I've ever owned. I hate using anything else. Mine is set up with 3/8 16in. bar & chain and it has great power in spruce/hardwood up to 18-20in. Although I've cut bigger with it. You can't go wrong with a 261. I basically bought mine on indiansprings recommendation on here and I'm very glad I did !!!!!
 
This is what I was thinking. The MS261 will be a middle ground on price and I would think plenty for limbing.

That one isn't very good for limbing, as it doesn't handle nor accellerate well enough - a 346xp or 550xp would be much nicer for that! :msp_biggrin:
 
I might get ran outta here for this,but I just really aint all that impressed with the 260.It is light and easy to handle ,but to me it seems a little on the weak side.Or just maybe over hyped.If you use a saw once a month,maintain it ,store it correctly,a pro saw will last you a lifetime.It will be lighter and easier to handle.On the other hand,a mid range saw will probably last a lifetime to.Sharp chain,good clean mix,and keep the carb adjusted right,those things are what its all about.I bought a Stihl 271,its a good saw,cuts fast,I think its light and well balanced,and it didnt break the bank
 
There are no Stihl saws with a plastic crankcase. The homeowner and midgrade saws are clamshell engines that drop into a plastic chassis. The engines themselves are all metal. The Husky 350 comes to mind as a saw with a 1/2 plastic crankcase, with the top half being metal.
 
There are no Stihl saws with a plastic crankcase. The homeowner and midgrade saws are clamshell engines that drop into a plastic chassis. The engines themselves are all metal. The Husky 350 comes to mind as a saw with a 1/2 plastic crankcase, with the top half being metal.

It's hard to imagine a 290 having a plastic crankcase and still weighing so much...

HF
 
I'd say the main difference is in the porting. With the exception of the complete engine bolting into a plastic case, there really are not too many differences, especially when it comes to the quality of parts. All are manufactured the same, except some parts of the "pro" series are made with magnesium. This has absolutely no affect on wear-out etc... Magnesium breaks as easily as plastic in my experience, sometimes much easier.
 
Stihl doesn't really have any mid-range models currently - the ones they call "mid-range" really is pure consumer models, as they have plastic crank cases and a clamshell design.



Maybe you have - I don't see what was wrong with my post. :msp_biggrin:

Never seen or heard of a Stihl chainsaw in today's market with a plastic crank case; show use pictures of one

There are no Stihl saws with a plastic crankcase. The homeowner and midgrade saws are clamshell engines that drop into a plastic chassis. The engines themselves are all metal. The Husky 350 comes to mind as a saw with a 1/2 plastic crankcase, with the top half being metal.

How much has ST been drinking :hmm3grin2orange:

So there is a Husky chain saw that has a 1/2 plastic crank case; I didn't know that
 
Stihl doesn't really have any mid-range models currently - the ones they call "mid-range" really is pure consumer models, as they have plastic crank cases and a clamshell design.

hmmmm i don't see no plastic here

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Not to reinvent the wheel here, but wouldn't a "clamshell" design be better in that the engine could be replaced as an entire sub-assembly. Instead of built as part of the case of the saw.
 
Not to reinvent the wheel here, but wouldn't a "clamshell" design be better in that the engine could be replaced as an entire sub-assembly. Instead of built as part of the case of the saw.

Changing a P@C is easy on a split case saw, 4 bolts and the cylinder is off but if changing bearing the clamshell would be a lot easyier. Most pro saws will have better power to wieght by quite a bit and I'd think they use higher qualty parts inside the engine. Steve
 
Changing a P@C is easy on a split case saw, 4 bolts and the cylinder is off but if changing bearing the clamshell would be a lot easyier. Most pro saws will have better power to wieght by quite a bit and I'd think they use higher qualty parts inside the engine. Steve

So the integrated crank case is done to save weight?
 
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