Whats the right chain?

BrandonM · Mar 4, 2010

I am wondering what the best type of bar and chain setup is for my needs. I have read about chisel type chains and all kinds of stuff and have no idea. So here is what I have.
1. Stihl 064 36" bar no idea what gauge or pitch
2. Stihl 045 20" bar .050 gauge .325 pitch
3. Stihl 041 " "
4. Echo 452vl " "
5. Stihl 021 14" bar
I want to cut as fast as i can, the 045 and 041 cut through logs like butter, but I am going to need new chains for both soon and was wondering if a chisel, narrow kerf, semi chisel or what have you would be better. Also if I should get a new bar with a bigger gauge. Also they have a ton of different types of bars. I just have no idea why they make so many different types. The echo cuts ok but I would like to see it do better. Also all I do is cross cut. My dad though was wondering what setup he should do for going with the grain, he has an 056 super with a 28" bar.

BrandonM · Mar 4, 2010

Sorry I realize that was a bit much, I tend to run at the mouth and have the same deficiency when typing. Basically I would like to know what the purpose of the different types of chains and bars are. The ones on my saws are all "normal" looking to me. I mostly cut hardwood for firewood.

pdqdl · Mar 5, 2010

Generally, larger chainsaws get a heavier chain, because the smaller chains simply won't last under the higher horsepower of the bigger saws. Conversely, a lot of professional cutters prefer to use as light a chain as possible, in order to increase cutting speed. Bigger teeth does not always equal a faster cut.

My opinion: any saw big enough to pull a 36 inch bar deserves .404 pitch chain. I prefer chisel tooth chain, because it cuts faster. If you are cutting in dirty conditions, you may prefer semi chisel. If you prefer square ground chisel tooth, you shouldn't be in this forum asking questions. Since you are asking these questions, don't even think about square ground chain.

.325 pitch chain I find to be more irritating than beneficial. I suspect it was created many years ago by Stihl just to make people buy their chain...until every other maker started doing it. I have seen the same thing happen with the narrow kerf chain. It is a little bit heavier than 3/8 low profile, but lighter than 3/8 standard, and it has more teeth than either of them. You generally find it on midsized professional saws. Given the option, I would convert all of your midsized saws to the same pitch chain; then you can buy one roll of chain, and make your own as needed.

3/8th low profile chain is standard for chainsaws that have 16" or smaller bars.

If you are not going to make your own chains, then stick with what is on the saw already. The manufacturer probably knew what they were doing.

Narrow kerf is for underpowered saws or professional cutters that don't care how fast they wear out the chain. Not practical for general use.

elmnut · Mar 5, 2010

pdqdl said:
Generally, larger chainsaws get a heavier chain, because the smaller chains simply won't last under the higher horsepower of the bigger saws. Conversely, a lot of professional cutters prefer to use as light a chain as possible, in order to increase cutting speed. Bigger teeth does not always equal a faster cut.

My opinion: any saw big enough to pull a 36 inch bar deserves .404 pitch chain. I prefer chisel tooth chain, because it cuts faster. If you are cutting in dirty conditions, you may prefer semi chisel. If you prefer square ground chisel tooth, you shouldn't be in this forum asking questions. Since you are asking these questions, don't even think about square ground chain.

.325 pitch chain I find to be more irritating than beneficial. I suspect it was created many years ago by Stihl just to make people buy their chain...until every other maker started doing it. I have seen the same thing happen with the narrow kerf chain. It is a little bit heavier than 3/8 low profile, but lighter than 3/8 standard, and it has more teeth than either of them. You generally find it on midsized professional saws. Given the option, I would convert all of your midsized saws to the same pitch chain; then you can buy one roll of chain, and make your own as needed.

3/8th low profile chain is standard for chainsaws that have 16" or smaller bars.

If you are not going to make your own chains, then stick with what is on the saw already. The manufacturer probably knew what they were doing.

Narrow kerf is for underpowered saws or professional cutters that don't care how fast they wear out the chain. Not practical for general use.

nuff said!

Philbert · Mar 5, 2010

BrandonM said:
I am wondering what the best type of bar and chain setup is for my needs. I have read about chisel type chains and all kinds of stuff and have no idea.

Brandon,

First, welcome to A.S.!

They make different types of chains for different types of saws, different types of cutting, and different needs. A sports car is fast, a pickup truck is good for carrying stuff or towing, a sedan is better for carrying people. If you try to buy one vehicle to do all three, you will be disappointed.

Some of the chain specs are based on your saw; the sprocket, the bar, the horsepower. Some chains, like low profile or narrow kerf, allow lower powered saws to cut better, but these chains do not hold up well with higher powered saws. Similarly, larger pitch chains will bog down a smaller saw.

Square-filed chisel chains do cut faster, but dull faster in dirty wood and are harder to sharpen. Semi-chisel chains don't cut as fast but hold up better in dirty wood and are easier to sharpen. This is what I recommend for most general use.

Skip tooth chain might be OK for your longer bar in big wood (clear chips faster) but will be really jumpy on smaller wood.

pdqdl's comment that the manufacturers probably figured out the best chain for a particular saw makes a lot of sense. They spend a lot of time on this. This doesn't meant that you can't have more than one type of chain for a saw. In fact, if you just want to try full chisel chain for felling, buy a loop for one of your saws. If you like it, buy more, and maybe keep your other chains for dirty wood, fire wood, etc.

Since you seem to have a bunch of STIHL saws, maybe you can visit the STIHL website to see what they recommend, or visit a local STIHL dealer to discuss the chain options.

Your Dad should look into special ripping chain for his saw, and switch back to conventional chain when he is mostly cross-cutting. If you can't find it locally, check out A.S. sponsors like Baileys.

Philbert