Lakeside53
Stihl Wrenching
Done..
What's wrong with this picture...
- Thread starter Lakeside53
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joesawer
Addicted to ArboristSite
I missed the great contest. The only comment thet has not allready been made is that I have never seen or heard of a 10 cent part for a Sthil.
Tzed250
Addicted to ArboristSite
Thats 10 percent...Any part for a Stihl costs 10 percent of the cost of a new saw
NovaMan
ArboristSite Operative
Good stuff. So what are the dimensions of the screw?
SWI Don
ArboristSite Guru
Lakeside,
Does the age of the saw have any bearing on this problem? Why you might ask? I would imagine that most of the platings that we are dealing with in small equipment are going to trivalent chrome. Since Stihl, Husky, Dolmar, Efco, Solo are based in Europe they most likely require it for end of life laws.
On the spring issue. Even 300 series stainless will become slightly magnetic when work hardened to the point of making a spring. Other stainless alloys used for spring making 17-7PH, 15-5PH are also somewhat magnetic.
Don
Does the age of the saw have any bearing on this problem? Why you might ask? I would imagine that most of the platings that we are dealing with in small equipment are going to trivalent chrome. Since Stihl, Husky, Dolmar, Efco, Solo are based in Europe they most likely require it for end of life laws.
On the spring issue. Even 300 series stainless will become slightly magnetic when work hardened to the point of making a spring. Other stainless alloys used for spring making 17-7PH, 15-5PH are also somewhat magnetic.
Don
KMB
Addicted to ArboristSite
ents
ArboristSite Guru
Please excuse my ignorance -- What do you mean by "seize"? That there is a chemical reaction between different metals and they bond together? Or what?
Just a comment about As -- I've been reading any and all new and archived threads (that's a lot of reading and a lot of
) and picking up an awful lot of info. I used to be fat, dumb, and happy running my saws but now I'm beginning to get scared to gas em up and go out to cut. Maybe I'll just drain the fluids, clean them up and set em on the shelf. That way nothing will happen to them.A "Never torn a saw apart" ques. Since I have never rebuilt a 2 stroke carb (seems from what I have read they can be touchy) and I would like some experience before tearing into the 044, is the 018 (tired and retired) basically the same? I have no problem tearing things apart, it's the putting back together that usually trips me up. No problem setting it up afterward since there is a TON of info in AS for that.
(Should the last paragraph been a new thread? Go ahead
me if it should have been)Thanks,
Fish
Tree Freak
The most important lesson for users to learn, is when the saw starts acting
up, running squirrelly, shut it down and find out what the problem is.
Do not keep using it until the piston melts.
up, running squirrelly, shut it down and find out what the problem is.
Do not keep using it until the piston melts.
Fish
Tree Freak
Lean/seizure is the most common saw killer, and can be caused by a multitude of conditions.
On saws, one can adjust a brand new saw and seize it on good fresh fuel
mix, if the carb is adjustable. One can adjust the high speed screw in, and get @ 18,000 rpm for about 40 seconds, then the piston starts melting, and the rings get pinned down by molten piston metal.
Going leaner on the fuel air ratio, the saw will run a lot faster, bt since the
oil/lube is in the fuel supply, it also means less lubrication, and even making
things hotter, faster. Usually a piston damaged by a lean/seizure, the
main damage will be around the exhaust port, and some may be on the opposite side, but mainly the exhaust.
Now, a piston damaged by lack of oil in the mix, sometimes referred to
using the lean word, the damage will be all round the piston.
Lean seizure due to a lean air/fuel ratio can be caused by improper
adjustment, fuel line leaks, clogged fuel filter, clogged carb, air leaks
in the crankcase {seals, gaskets, etc.}, any thing that restricts the fuel,
or increases air to the engine.
On saws, one can adjust a brand new saw and seize it on good fresh fuel
mix, if the carb is adjustable. One can adjust the high speed screw in, and get @ 18,000 rpm for about 40 seconds, then the piston starts melting, and the rings get pinned down by molten piston metal.
Going leaner on the fuel air ratio, the saw will run a lot faster, bt since the
oil/lube is in the fuel supply, it also means less lubrication, and even making
things hotter, faster. Usually a piston damaged by a lean/seizure, the
main damage will be around the exhaust port, and some may be on the opposite side, but mainly the exhaust.
Now, a piston damaged by lack of oil in the mix, sometimes referred to
using the lean word, the damage will be all round the piston.
Lean seizure due to a lean air/fuel ratio can be caused by improper
adjustment, fuel line leaks, clogged fuel filter, clogged carb, air leaks
in the crankcase {seals, gaskets, etc.}, any thing that restricts the fuel,
or increases air to the engine.
