Which brand's current products are hardest to work on?

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Which brand's current product is hardest to work on?

  • Echo

    Votes: 2 6.5%
  • Efco/John Deere

    Votes: 2 6.5%
  • Dolmar/Makita

    Votes: 1 3.2%
  • Husqvarna/Jonsered

    Votes: 4 12.9%
  • Shindiawa

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Stihl

    Votes: 17 54.8%
  • Solo

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Poulan

    Votes: 5 16.1%

  • Total voters
    31
  • Poll closed .

Tony Snyder

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I just thought it would be interesting to get some opinions on who dislikes working on what brands.

I believe it is predictable that dealer people will be partial to their brands and to not like the competition's products.

My biased opinion is that it is probably worth the $60 an hour some shops charge to work on some of this stuff. I get $35 an hour, and don't take in any Homelites or McCullochs (takes to much of my energy chasing parts, no service info, etc)
 
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Efco/John Deere. Too many components screwed on and boots that need to be pulled through housings to seal, although I admit that my experience with them is limited.

Russ
 
Your right Russ, the boot thing is a problem. I've found a piece of bailing wire nooseing the boot tightly and then feeding thru the hole and then cut the wire is helpfull. Then you can bend a little bailing wire U shaped hook with the burrs buffed off as a tool to get the rubber lip in position.
 
I've never torn one apart, but my new Echo CS-510 seems very easy to work on. The air filter cover has a big thumbscrew and so does the round auto-type air clearn. Then the switch and other controls are mounted in a "bulkhead" that slips out of grooves. Stuff is very easy to get at....
 
Max by work on I think he means thing like jug replacement, ignition access, flywheel access, clutch access, carb access, etc.
Its easy to remove the air cleaner on any saw, but you cant say how easy it is to repair something until you have tried it
 
Dunno about newer ones, but how many other folks think some of the classic Jonsey ignitions are a royal pain?
 
problems

OK. fuel line on the small poulan, all the way through the handle? Come on.
A 610 McColluch. Take forever to get it back together, and it still leaks oil.
Oil hose in a older Echo, some room would be nice. And a switch that really works.
Fuel hose in an XL 12. LOTS of soap.
Why can't all clutches have a nut cast on them?
And ,yes, the switch on an 020T. DO NOT try this at home!
 
I think the Oleo-Mac's are the worst no brainers for working on, sloted hexnut heads are too shallow. Phillips is fine, but Torx or Allen is much better.
John
 
Originally posted by HUSKYMAN
Max by work on I think he means thing like jug replacement, ignition access, flywheel access, clutch access, carb access, etc.
Its easy to remove the air cleaner on any saw, but you cant say how easy it is to repair something until you have tried it

Yes, I know what you mean, but it appears to me that the Echo saw is designed to be easy to work on. Other saws I've seen you need a tool to get the cover and air clean off. And with those little "bulkheads" on the Echo you can get the controls and carb off real fast with minimum tools. Then the cylinder comes right off because it still has has base screws. Don't know about the bottom end. Yet, I'd still say it's the best engineered design I own when compared to my Jonsered, Stihl, and Solo saw.

On the other hand, I see you need a special tool to remove the clutch from the Echo. That seems like an odd oversight.
 
max ,i think u and i are pretty close to the same page. i love it when a plan comes togather. but a lot dont, and when they do ,,it be nice to know,, for sure why.
jmo:)
 
That time on the 029 sounds like an improvement over Stihl's past saws. I have to do what essentially amounts to replacing the gas tank on my 045 (just to gain room to insert the plug lead under the flywheel!) and it'll take several hours.

Never worked on Stihl's newer stuff, just an Echo which is ten times easier.

Chris B.
 
The one good thing about working on a Stihl is you can do most of the disassembling with what they give you when you buy the saw, can't do that with a husky.
 
Originally posted by chainsawworld
i recently chaged fuel tanks on two saws. husky 372xp- a little over 20 mins, stihl 029-over 60 mins

Husky 372 is a pro saw.....much easier to change the tank.......029 is a homowner saw....you can't even compare the two....

and I have changed many many 272 371 372 2065 2071 tanks.......it takes me at least a half hour...maybe more.....I think we are experiencing an exaderation here.
 
Husky 372 is a pro saw.....much easier to change the tank.......029 is a homowner saw....you can't even compare the two....

The 372 and 029 are apples and oranges. A better comparison would be the 372 and 044. I dont think 20 min is and exageration especially if he has done it a few times before, but then again an 044 gas tank takes about the same amount of time.

I think the hardest saws to work on are stihls non pro "bubble" saws 029,039, ms310 I have never worked on stihls smaller saws like the 025 so I cant comment there.
 
The results are just about as I expected they would be, with the exception of Solo, which I suspect very few are acquanted with.

I deliberately left out Homelite and McCulloch because there are really no current (real) H or M models out there.
 
man i am getting the hang o this... i was capable of threading the gas line thru the handle of a xxv... hate to say this stihltech but if thats difficult,, im better than i thought . .. no offence bud ,,but im not under that illusion. :) [that im getting good fixin saws.] i can put a tolerably sharp chain out tho.
 
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