which cabling system???

[mmayo]

Hi folks,
I'm currently working on the second largest northern red oak in Colorado.(small compared with this species in other areas) It splits into three leads at about 6 feet from the ground. There are visible cracks. There are targets if the tree fails(i.e. homes) The dbh is about 50", each lead is 24"-30" in diameter. The height is 65'-70' I would like to install tree-save 13/11. Do I need to go to 10/20? Do I need to install steel? Minor cracks(1/4-1/2") Yes I will have a liability waiver sighn etc etc etc. What do ya think???

 

[MasterBlaster]

A most excellent question!

 

[Stumper]

Please explain the cracks.

 

[TREETX]

Hey Matt!! Long time no hear.

Great choice going dynamic.

I use a very similar product here weekly. Steel can actually cause failure in said senario.

One thing we do here is install the cables high. Very high. 2/3 very often 3/4 the way up.

I wouldn't do the cable w/out at least minimal reduction/subordination.

As always, continuum of care counts.

 

[P_woozel]

How come noone braces cracked unions anymore? I too often see a 2-ton dynamic system supporting leads that are at that weight sitting still, and only if they fall in the anticipated direction, the cable will create an oppotunity for failure at another angle, because of the cracked crotch, so why don't folks brace and use a dynamic cable? :Eye:

 

[a_lopa]

would cabling help this one out?,swamp gum. no way would i live under it about 95' maybe 100'

 

[glens]

You all must have tall fences and cars down there...

 

[a_lopa]

no all the big stuffs in US, its a corolla with a lift kit

 

[Stumper]

I think Glen means that the tree probably tops out at 70 feet in height comparing it to the size of house, fence and car.

 

[a_lopa]

glen may be right on a few things, but ill take him up on spot checking tree heights any day

 

[glens]

Well, I would have guessed 75, but I loaded the photo into xpaint and counted pixel rows, then commented the image.  It's only approximate, and based on the fence being 6' tall.

But I'd still guess 75 <tt>:</tt>)

Glen

 

[a_lopa]

fence would be 5'6''

 

[xander9727]

I'm coming up with 90-95 feet with the fence being 5'6". I'd bet he's right on the estimate.

 

[glens]

That was a better shot in that the camera wasn't tilted up (as much).

Glen

 

[mmayo]

I'm wondering, do I go with 5 ton or 10 ton dynamic. Seems like cabling at 2/3's there is incredible leverage on the tree. But if somehow the tree fails, the heavier cable would prevent it from damaging the house. The cracks are 1/4-1/2 inch one is about two years old I'm guessing because we had a very heavy snow that damaged many trees here and the damage seems fairly recent. They also encompass about half the circumference of the leads. No sign that they are about to peel, but safty says install the cable before this happens. Any more thoughts 5 ton or 10 ton?

 

[Stumper]

Matt, Cracks. Cracks! What cracks? Are you talking about a seperation in ridged bark? Movement between stems that reveals pressure effected included bark? An actual crack that reveals underlying wood? FWIW The maufacturer of Cobra says use steel when things are already broken. The heavy Tree-save installed taut may work but P. Woozel is right about bracing if it is already busted. Personally, if it is already split and over a target then I'd say Ciao!

 

[TREETX]

I have to agree w/Maas. Dynamic in a situation where failure has occured won't suffice alone. But static high in a tree is just plain retarded.

Sounds like a good candidate for a hybrid system.

Nothing paints a picture like a picture

 

[Stumper]

I mostly agree with Mike but-He is a bit erroneus about the loads on th cable. Actually the loads incurred by a proper dynamic cablling op are very small. The tree is already holding itself up and is adapted to moving with wind loads so the cable acts as a shock absorber and extra support. Loads seldom add up to much. In a situation where cracking exists then the cable needs to be very strong because we are gearing up for total tree failure. As Mike and Nathan point out-somethjing must be done to stabilize the cracks or we the situation isn't going to ever get any better. Yopu guys are gonna scream at me but it sounds like removal would be wise in this case.

 

[NickfromWI]

Why not bolt the crack?

 

[mmayo]

Probably should bolt the crack. It's just that it is minor(though it is an existing injury) and I rather not introduce mor decay into the system. I also have to agree with stumper Which is where this question stems from. I should be able to install 13/10 tree save safely, but there's a part of me that says if this tree fails and causes damage, would the heavier cable held the lead? I'll post some pics soon!!