reverse the hoses on the primer bulb and try to run it
Which way around
- Thread starter BobL
- Start date
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Just a couple of comments: Just because the carb looks clean and is properly assembled doesn't mean it's functional, in a saw that's been sitting that long, the 2 diaphragms are probably too stiff. Always pressure test the inlet valve for seating and pop-off pressure before installing it.
Number one cause for saws that have good compression and ignition but won't even fire is they are seriously flooded.
Number one cause for saws that have good compression and ignition but won't even fire is they are seriously flooded.
"A" should be the long hose to the bottom of the tank with the fuel filter. The purge bulb pulls fuel through the long hose (A), through the carburetor, then returns it back to the tank through "B".
You will most likely have to take the cover off the flywheel side of the saw in order to get the new hoses routed through the tank, and make sure when you put it back together that the hoses are not pinched in the housing.
The electronic ignition coil used on the 32/32/38 cc saws is 219848. Resistance on the secondary side is actually quite low. I get .750-.850 when measuring with either a digital or analog meter.
Mark
You will most likely have to take the cover off the flywheel side of the saw in order to get the new hoses routed through the tank, and make sure when you put it back together that the hoses are not pinched in the housing.
The electronic ignition coil used on the 32/32/38 cc saws is 219848. Resistance on the secondary side is actually quite low. I get .750-.850 when measuring with either a digital or analog meter.
Mark
Thanks fellas for your help.
But nope rerouting the hoses - didn't make any difference..
Same problem -fires, a few tun-tun-tuns, runs for a few seconds and then stops.
If I use an ether based starter spray it runs like the clappers for a few more seconds and then stop
Can see fuel being pulled by the primer bulb from carby and returned back to tank. There are some air bubbles in the return lines (not the - potential problem.
Might be time for a carby kit.
But nope rerouting the hoses - didn't make any difference..
Same problem -fires, a few tun-tun-tuns, runs for a few seconds and then stops.
If I use an ether based starter spray it runs like the clappers for a few more seconds and then stop
Can see fuel being pulled by the primer bulb from carby and returned back to tank. There are some air bubbles in the return lines (not the - potential problem.
Might be time for a carby kit.
Are you sure the pick up hose (A) has a filter and reaches all the way to the bottom of the tank?
Mark
Mark
Yep fuel is definitely coming up through A.
If it starts and runs briefly, it's probably just using the fuel that's in the carb due to the primer but the fuel pump isn't delivering fuel to the inlet valve, or the main diaphragm is too stiff to operate the inlet valve. fuel pump may not be working due to stiff fuel diaphragm or bad impulse from the crankcase to drive it.
quite helpful, douche
Exactly well worth that to try.
Carby kit ordered.
Thanks again to everyone who's contributing
Thanks again to everyone who's contributing
Dont blow it out with high pressure air use carb cleaner.
New Carby kit arrived.
Am baffled by the two of the same shape but different materials gasket.
RHS is rubber - same as only one
LHS is make of a stiffish plastic film - is it either/or por both and of so which way around
Thanks
Also there's a small piece of Al that shaped like a key hole - how the heck do you get the old one out - it looks like its first pressed in.
any what's it for?
Am baffled by the two of the same shape but different materials gasket.
RHS is rubber - same as only one
LHS is make of a stiffish plastic film - is it either/or por both and of so which way around
Thanks
Also there's a small piece of Al that shaped like a key hole - how the heck do you get the old one out - it looks like its first pressed in.
any what's it for?
The plastic (acetate) one is the stiffest and will last a long time but pumps less fuel, the rubbery one is the most flexible and pumps the most fuel but has a shorter lifetime. Kit didn't have a 3rd, tan colored (teflon) diaphragm? All these diaphragms are affected by alcohol in the fuel and the tan one is the best compromise but if you don't have it and if your fuel is alcohol free, probably the black one would be the one to use. The two tabs in the diaphragm have to cover fuel passage holes in the body on the carb and act as one way valves, there should be locating pins in the body of the carb that fit into the two outer holes so that it can't be installed wrong. Diaphragm fits right onto carb, gasket between it and the cover
The keyhole shaped piece is a pressed in cover of the idle circuit, (idle port and 2 transfer ports). Normally you don't have to remove it, If you remove the L screw and spray carb cleaner in, you should see it coming out the idle circuit holes inside the carb just behind the throttle plate,
The keyhole shaped piece is a pressed in cover of the idle circuit, (idle port and 2 transfer ports). Normally you don't have to remove it, If you remove the L screw and spray carb cleaner in, you should see it coming out the idle circuit holes inside the carb just behind the throttle plate,
link
Gone fishing
I don't think mr.Bob's offended buddy, but I apologize just in case... goes to you too Oly.
Not offended in the slightest. Just grateful someone is prepared to answer such minor questions.
Thanks again for all the answers. Carby is about to go for a long soak in carby cleaner in the ultrasoniccator.
Thanks again for all the answers. Carby is about to go for a long soak in carby cleaner in the ultrasoniccator.
link
Gone fishing
Same to you mate, sir. Cheers
Even though the regs permit using alcohol in fuel we don't have it.
RE: How diaphragms fit on carby. Yes I did a trial fit and its pretty clear how they go on.
Thanks for the info on the Al Key hole piece.
At last - Success!
I tried the carby kit first but itwould not start.
Overnight soak in carby cleaner plus 2 x 20 minute bursts in the ultrasonicator (its been in the ultrasonicator before - but not soaked ON)
Started on 3rd pull.
Thanks to all who responded - it certainly helped to keep me trying.
My next port of call was going to be an 85 year old ex-farmer friend who lives in a retirement village a few miles away. He's a bit of a wizard with small motors. He and I have traded many war stories bout small motors and I'm sure he will enjoy this one.
One more question, does anyone know what RPM the H screw for an Eager Beaver 2116 should nominally be set to?
Thanks
I tried the carby kit first but itwould not start.
Overnight soak in carby cleaner plus 2 x 20 minute bursts in the ultrasonicator (its been in the ultrasonicator before - but not soaked ON)
Started on 3rd pull.
Thanks to all who responded - it certainly helped to keep me trying.
My next port of call was going to be an 85 year old ex-farmer friend who lives in a retirement village a few miles away. He's a bit of a wizard with small motors. He and I have traded many war stories bout small motors and I'm sure he will enjoy this one.
One more question, does anyone know what RPM the H screw for an Eager Beaver 2116 should nominally be set to?
Thanks
Do a search on how to tune a saw by ear, much better and safer method of getting it to the sweet spot than setting to some rpm number.
