Which Wood splitter.........

[eyeinstine]

I running a 8hp 16gpm on a 4.5" ram. It should be a fair bit faster than your 5" cyl with the same pump. And i know that mine is still too slow for me.. Also remember that your rod diameter will affect the retract speed. You can reduce alot of the cycle time of your splitter, by going with a 3 rod on a 4.5 or 5 cylinder. makes a big difference. And unless your going to run a 4 or 6 way wedge, a 5" cylinder is over kill. but you may need ot go with a 5" to get the 3" in rod, not too sure on that. a 4.5" cyl with a 3" rod would be ideal, and fast as hell cycle time with a 22 gpm pump and a 13-15hp engine with a 3000psi valve; setting the pressure releif valve at that 3000psi will get you an honest 23.84 tons. All these splitters rated at 20, 25, 27, 30 tons are full of shat. They give that rating based on the maximum possible PSI of the pump (usually 3000psi), then they use a cheap valve set at 2250psi.
My splitter is tagged as 27 ton, but doing the math, it is about 19 tons.

Also, as someone else suggested, make a stop block on your splitter to stop the return stoke at the length wood you need for your stove. most splitters will fit a 26" log, but most stoves only fit a 16-18" log. Using a stop to stop at 16-18" will reduce your cycle time by a good 30-35%. That would take a fast 13 second splitter down to a blazing fast 8 second splitter.
Another benefit is you would only be splitting wood that you know will fit in your stove. If your stop is made so only a 16" log (if your stove only fits a 16" log, etc) fits in the splitter; then toss the large rejects to the side for saw trimming.

Cheers,
Ron

 

[keith c raymond]

I finally have the splitter up and running.Am happy with it so far,mostly cause' I did all my splitting by hand.I could cycle a little faster ,but then I might get caught in it too...

 

[Newfie]

Also, as someone else suggested, make a stop block on your splitter to stop the return stoke at the length wood you need for your stove. most splitters will fit a 26" log, but most stoves only fit a 16-18" log. Using a stop to stop at 16-18" will reduce your cycle time by a good 30-35%. That would take a fast 13 second splitter down to a blazing fast 8 second splitter.

I like that idea Ron but have a question not because I'm challenging but because I don't know the answer. My detente valve stays in the reverse position automatically on the back stroke and returns to neutral when the piston is fully retracted. Will your little block scenario mess with this or will the valve automatically detect the new resistance point? I'm sure my question belies my ignorance on the subject.

 

[jokers]

Hi Mike,

My detente valve stays in the reverse position automatically on the back stroke and returns to neutral when the piston is fully retracted. Will your little block scenario mess with this or will the valve automatically detect the new resistance point?

That`s a good question. The answer is that your detent valve will release when it sees the pressure increase(actually a differential pressure decrease across the spool) from being against the stop.

Russ

 

[jokers]

Hi Dan,

Once you put the "spacers" on that we are referring too here, they typically stay on and are placed on a portion of the rod which will no longer pass through the hydraulic seals so even if it did score the rod, which it shouldn`t, it should be of minimal consequence. The spacers that we are speaking off are actually rod stops.

Russ

 

[Whiteindustries]

Spacers...

Hi Dan,

Once you put the "spacers" on that we are referring too here, they typically stay on and are placed on a portion of the rod which will no longer pass through the hydraulic seals so even if it did score the rod, which it shouldn`t, it should be of minimal consequence. The spacers that we are speaking off are actually rod stops.

Russ

Hi,
I was told Tractor Supply carried aluminum spacers for the purpose of limiting ram return travel in another thread.Makes sense,I am going to try setting my return for 18" as I am splitting 16" wood giving me a liitle room for my fingers to set the wood.The aluminum shouldnt hurt the chrome just have to keep it clean.
As far as engine and pump I am in the process of up grading my 8hp 16gpm to a 13hp 22gpm that should liven things up.
Time is money!!!!And firewood is at the bottom of the barrel for profit!

 

[WESCOMAN]

I picked up a used Northern Hydraulic splitter a few days ago and am very happy. Its supposed to be a 24 ton but as Eyeinstine said thats with 3000 psi across the entire machine. I know the valve is set at 2250 from the factory. It is sporting a 10 hp motor, 16 GPM pump and a 5x24x2 cylinder. It seems about 13 seconds but I have yet to check this. I agree it needs to be faster. So my new specs will be 20 HP electric start Honda commercail engine, 28 GPM pump, 5 x 24 x (3) if I can find a 3' rodded cyclinder, and a 3000 psi valve (If I can find that too) with auto detent on the return stroke only. So I need help finding those 2 components. 3000 psi valve and 5x24x3 cylinder. Anyone out there know where such items lurk?

 

[eyeinstine]

I like that idea Ron but have a question not because I'm challenging but because I don't know the answer. My detente valve stays in the reverse position automatically on the back stroke and returns to neutral when the piston is fully retracted. Will your little block scenario mess with this or will the valve automatically detect the new resistance point? I'm sure my question belies my ignorance on the subject.

Hi Mike,
I'm a little late getting back on A.S., but as Jokers and some others said, your detent will work fine.. The release pressures are usually set at 650psi ( they are adjustable ), so as soon as the ram retracts and hit sthe stop, the pressure will rise, an when it his 650, the Handle will pop..

As for the stop, the ones made to clamp around the rod should be fine, but i was looking at my splitter and found an easier way. I can cut a piece of channel, or two peices of angle iron welded togther, so they will drop onto the beam behind the pusher plate/wedge when it is out. Then when it retracts, the pusher plate or wedge that is attached to the cylinder rod will hit this stopper and trip the detemt handle out. Very cheap and easy, and no chance to damage the rod. You can make a couple different sized stops to slip onto the ibeam, depending on what size wood you want to split. Saves on time sorting legths.. I know i can only use 16" and smaller. My father in law uses the splitter, or i split for him, and he can take up to a 20" log.. I toss all the rounds that are over 16" to the side, knowing they are probably usable for him..

Have fun,
Ron

 

[eyeinstine]

I picked up a used Northern Hydraulic splitter a few days ago and am very happy. Its supposed to be a 24 ton but as Eyeinstine said thats with 3000 psi across the entire machine. I know the valve is set at 2250 from the factory. It is sporting a 10 hp motor, 16 GPM pump and a 5x24x2 cylinder. It seems about 13 seconds but I have yet to check this. I agree it needs to be faster. So my new specs will be 20 HP electric start Honda commercail engine, 28 GPM pump, 5 x 24 x (3) if I can find a 3' rodded cyclinder, and a 3000 psi valve (If I can find that too) with auto detent on the return stroke only. So I need help finding those 2 components. 3000 psi valve and 5x24x3 cylinder. Anyone out there know where such items lurk?

That sounds like an great setup! Pretty much what i would build.. Make sure your sitting down when you price that 28gpm pump!!! $$$$$$$
With the setup you propose (3000psi) you will get an honest 29.44 tons. Subtract a tad for friction lossed in the hoses and fittings. You should be able to run a 6 way wedge on that sucker!

If northern cant supply you with the parts, check with www.baileynet.com
I just got my 16gpm pump from them. Northern was out of stock; Baileys had it in stock and it was about 4$ LESS!
Baileys can custom make about any cylinder you want too. Good company, i bought from them when i was sales manager/purchaser at a commercial truck shop/garage.

Have fun
Ron