Who makes the best bar?

[Skywalker]

problem solved!

Just Stumps nailed it. Corkscrewing. Unfortunately that means that I have to admit to operator error. I'll trade my frustrations in on that any day of the week! I thought we were gonna go outta business replacing bars, turns out I just needed to modify my cuts. If I use the powerhead as my pivot point the saw will cut straight as an arrow. Thanks a lot. Saved me lots of time and energy today.

 

[Freakingstang]

I used to like the old windsor and old total bars, but manufacturing has changed on them over the years, I would say a Tsumara is probably the best bar that I have. Also keep in mind that hard nose bars are more durable and better at bore cutting, but they do rob torque. A roller nose will usually cut faster in clean wood that is being bucked.

The old Widsor Sandvik bars are awesome. I have a few of the old ones stashed away. One of the best bars I ever ran. The new speed tips are made from the same soft steel as the oregon power matches.

 

[Freakingstang]

Just Stumps nailed it. Corkscrewing. Unfortunately that means that I have to admit to operator error. I'll trade my frustrations in on that any day of the week! I thought we were gonna go outta business replacing bars, turns out I just needed to modify my cuts. If I use the powerhead as my pivot point the saw will cut straight as an arrow. Thanks a lot. Saved me lots of time and energy today.

Good on you for admitting you were wrong, or your technique was. Most people have a problem admitting.

 

[chub]

Is that gb titanium bar new for this year, I cant find any info on the web about them. I am also looking for a new bar and the gb rep told me that the CN40 pro titanium is the one to get. If they are so new I am wandering if that really is what I want. Chub

 

[046]

check your new chain to make sure it's the correct thickness.
using a .50 chain in a .58 bar that's worn a bit... could cause problems your describing.

carefully check markings on bar to verify correct size chain is used.

a bar closing tool is a very good investment. tighten back to factory spec's, then draw file bar back to flat on top.

after bar is dressed, put on a new chain. betha that fixes it...

 

[novaman64]

Anybody know of any online retailers where you can get Cannon bars? I went to their site and called the local shop and the guy wouldn't sell me one, said they were no better than an Oregon bar and he wouldn't order them unless I ordered 10 (apparently there min order qnty)...
:jawdrop:

 

[(WLL)]

Is that gb titanium bar new for this year, I cant find any info on the web about them. I am also looking for a new bar and the gb rep told me that the CN40 pro titanium is the one to get. If they are so new I am wandering if that really is what I want. Chub

we have the gb titanium and it is so heavy!!! only the tip is titanium.

 

[(WLL)]

i like oem stihl bars. if you use them right they will out last the saw. i am most pleased with the light fiberglass bars for the tophandles. i hope they start putting them on all there bars.

 

[hornett22]

i think they are great bars.

when I ran 058 guage chain I ran total super bars made by Tsumara. They are one of the better bars I have ran imo. I never had a problem with the tips, although I don't know which tip they had. I did a lot of plunge cuts, and that is were the weaker tips seem to fail, at least for me.

I liked them becuase they looked cool, even after lots of use.

quality is great and they do look cool as hell. my only dealer for them around here won't sell me any over 20".anything more comes with the 6 pin sprocket and he says he doesn't want me pissed at him.he sells the 4 pin replacement sprockets as well but says i'm better off with the GB Ti.so far i have no complaints with the GBs other than the paint is crap.not that it matters much.

 

[StihlRockin']

I agree with the chain sharpness. keep your bar squared and burr free. keep your chain sharp. some times i will flip a bar touch it up sharpen the chain and then cut some thick clean logs and pull the tip into the wood, digging in with the dog side then pulling the saw back while cutting so the tip is buried. i repeat this process. if the saw pulls back with ease you usually have it straight. if it is hard to pull back (holding up a little) there is a chance there is a bend. I know it might look funny but i notice it seems to get it tracking nice with this method. Ring any bells for any one else?

Yeah, know exactly what you're talking about. I do it often when my chain isn't quite cutting right. Usually happens... or at least notice on the bigger wood and is almost always due to a chain that is not sharp by either wearing oddly or knicked something to slightly damage the cutter edges on one side more than another. I'll have a tougher time cutting trying to bury the blade, then I'll pull out the bar and re-track. Happens with loose chains too.

StihlRockin'