Who's got a CB 5036 ?

[LTREES]

Just bought a 5036 and will get it in 2 weeks. The dealer told me I was going to burn 5-6 cords of wood (with out the fan). A little more if I get the fan. Is this right or am I dreaming. I've seen the posts and believe that most OWB"s use 9-12 cords of wood. Any one have a CB this size with any comment? I'll take any and all comments. Thanks.

LT...

 

[Slick]

I've got the same size on the way, I'm in pa also and my dealer gave me a similar range....also have a friend here in north east pa...different owb, has a big heatmor (with a fan) who told me last week he burned 5-6 last year.

 

[LTREES]

I've got the same size on the way, I'm in pa also and my dealer gave me a similar range....also have a friend here in north east pa...different owb, has a big heatmor (with a fan) who told me last week he burned 5-6 last year.

Was it D&M?

 

[Slick]

My dealer? DLH contracting in Danville Pa...Dale something is the owner, nice guy. What part of PA are you in?

 

[rx7145]

I have a 4436 (Older model) and burn a good 12 full cord a heating season.

 

[LTREES]

I have a 4436 (Older model) and burn a good 12 full cord a heating season.

HOW OLD?

 

[LadyToysDream]

We have had our 5036 running for about 5 weeks now.

Problem with the draft not staying opening long enough in the door.

Make sure the guy that brings your furnace shows you where the temp setting is located for your furnace. We were told the factory setting was supposed to be 185 degrees..........
last night hubby fiqured ours out, and it was NOT set correctly.
We have creosote like you would not believe.
Still waiting on the dealer to get here to double check things for us.
We will be very happy with the furnace but it sure would have been nice
to have a wood burning book to look at. A lot of frustrations already.

 

[mimilkman1]

I have a 4436 (Older model) and burn a good 12 full cord a heating season.

That's not unrealistic.

Kyle

 

[rx7145]

HOW OLD?

It was built 1/05.

 

[Blazin]

I'm burning a CB5648 that I installed in 2004. Basically the same unit as the new 6048 only a few less gallon of water and a different side/access door. The first year I had it I heated one house and a garage, and used around 9 full cord. The second year I hooked my Mom's house up to it and now it's heating aprox 6000sq ft of buildings using 14-16 cord depending on the weather, and of course the type of wood your putting in it.
As far as the fan goes, I bought one when I was forced to use soaking wet wood at the end of one season but took it off only a week later. It REALLY blows the heat right out of the stove from what I experienced. I even tried putting a rheostat on it to slow it down, but still did'nt see any gain as it would just eat the wood twice as fast. If you have reasonably dry wood IMO the fan is not worth having unless you want to use extra wood!

Someone also mentioned excess creosote. That is a common occurence this time of year when the temps are mild and especially if you don't have perfectly dry wood, as the stove does more simmering than burning. Just wait until it stays at 30 degrees for awhile your creosote will disappear and the fire box will be all white and powdery! Nothing to worry about

 

[LTREES]

My dealer is working on trying to set up a solenoid for a fan. In theory to turn on the fan for 3-4 min. to get the fire hot and convert to the draft to finish heating the water. Any one ever attempt this? Does the circulator have to run 24/7 on the OWB? If I set it up for turning on only when there is a call for heat does that void the warranty? Will the water get too hot that way and start to boil? How much control do you really have with the aqua-stat? Sorry about so many questions, just thinking about the set up.

LT...

 

[Blazin]

That timed blast of the fan idea would be way better than the constant fan, but I say try it without it first, you'll be surprised that you don't need it. The circulators run 24/7 to keep all the water at a even temp. Shutting them off in any way is'nt gonna gain you anything other than waiting for water to get hot. As far as the aquastat on the stove, where ever you set it, the water temp will usually go a couple of degrees over the high limit after the damper shuts off. It will open the damper back up when the water cools down 10 degrees and bring it back to the high limit temp. Nothing to really ponder, just let it do it's job! I'm sure you'll be really watching it when you first get it running as we all did, but that goes away after you've had it a year or so!

 

[Jon E]

I've got a CB 5648 that I have had running 24/7 for over a year now, heating 4300 square feet plus domestic HW for my house. I have a family of 7, we use a lot of hot water. I haven't been really careful in figuring burn quantities, but I can tell you that from December 2007 through May 2008, I was burning an average of exactly one cord a month. Little more in winter, little less in spring. As soon as the heat circulators shut down for the summer, I got to the point where all it took to heat water for the day was a few sticks. I went through about a full heaping contractor's wheelbarrow full of junk wood (scraps, bark chips, stump cuttings, rot & punk wood, pine slabs) per week during June, July and August. Right now I'm burning about the same amount every three days. Most of what I've burned the last year has been pine slabs and semi-rotten stuff, off my sawmill and scrounging near the house. I haven't even gotten into any significant amount of hardwoods yet.

I also discovered that you have to tinker with the temperature controller settings as the year goes by. I have mine set very low in the summer, as the boiler literally will boil off steam if the temperature is set at or near the high limit. The residual heat is enough to bring the water temp well over the 185 degree set point to 210-212 degrees (and a big cloud of steam) if the fire is good and hot. In the winter I bring the set point up to about 180.

 

[nathandrews]

My 5036 has been running since November 2006 heating my domestic hot water and 1304 sqft of a well insulated house. I'm using about 6 cord of seasoned hard wood a year in mid Michigan.

 

[Scootermsp]

That timed blast of the fan idea would be way better than the constant fan, but I say try it without it first, you'll be surprised that you don't need it. The circulators run 24/7 to keep all the water at a even temp. Shutting them off in any way is'nt gonna gain you anything other than waiting for water to get hot. As far as the aquastat on the stove, where ever you set it, the water temp will usually go a couple of degrees over the high limit after the damper shuts off. It will open the damper back up when the water cools down 10 degrees and bring it back to the high limit temp. Nothing to really ponder, just let it do it's job! I'm sure you'll be really watching it when you first get it running as we all did, but that goes away after you've had it a year or so!

:agree2: :agree2: :agree2:

You do not need a fan, mine runs great w/o one. Circs running 24/7. Very happy with my CB5036. (I did buy a spare solenoid because my experience is that the one I have will fail at 2AM in the middle of January during a Noreaster. For $25 it's cheap insurance. Having a fan just adds more stuff to fail. remember the KISS principle.....Keep It Simple Stupid !!! Hope this helps...good luck.

 

[HUSKYMAN]

Adding a barn or garage really increase the wood usage. My owb would only use 5-6 cords heating just my house and hot water. When I heat my 1500sq ft barn, the wood usage almost doubles

 

[LTREES]

Adding a barn or garage really increase the wood usage. My owb would only use 5-6 cords heating just my house and hot water. When I heat my 1500sq ft barn, the wood usage almost doubles

What kind of OWB do you have?