Why does piston scoring matter?

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I don't care about everybodys guesses, I will wait to see what happens to the ones I put together for that purpose. Actually 3 now as I just did a 365 also, also the ring on this one APPEARD to be ok so it was reused.
Sometime down the road we should have edjucation with evidence. I hope I live long enough.
Just an update on the 353 & 346 I put together scored.
I've been working them hard, at first the 346 did not run well, since I had put these saws on 350 cases I pulled the cyl. to make sure I had modded the case for 346 impulse, I had.
Next I pulled the carb & put a new diaphram in, that cured it.
Lastly I cut down a newly dead 20'' on the stump red oak using the 346 with a 20'' 325 bar and blocked it up getting 11 22'' blocks, then cut off & ripped in half the first crotch piece.
I cut up the rest of the tree with the 353, 16'' 325 bar. Today I will start ripping those blocks into 4 pieces with the 346 20'', (normaly use 70cc 24'' but this is a test)
I am way too old to be moving those blocks by hand. Will keep you posted.
 
The piston score is of little consequence as long as the rings/ ring grooves are undamaged, and rings seal to the piston. You CUD machine grooves into piston that would work just fine. However, transfer on cylinder wall that pushes the ring away from cylinder wall, or damages ring, or grooves in cylinder wall all allow gas bypass of the rings and reduced compression pressure. Below 120 many CS/ 2-cycle will not run or will have big power loss. Period.
 
The piston score is of little consequence as long as the rings/ ring grooves are undamaged, and rings seal to the piston. You CUD machine grooves into piston that would work just fine. However, transfer on cylinder wall that pushes the ring away from cylinder wall, or damages ring, or grooves in cylinder wall all allow gas bypass of the rings and reduced compression pressure. Below 120 many CS/ 2-cycle will not run or will have big power loss. Period.
If you had read the whole thread you would know we know all that already, please add something new. thanks!
 
If you don't have enough compression, the rings are either melted or arn't sealing against the cylinder due to transfer, then you need to do something.
If the cylinder is unscored, you can remove the just transfer and replace piston and rings. But you still run the risk of over-sanding or an aftermarket piston not fitting exactly, so most of the time I replace piston and cylinder together. Ive had good experience with meteor.
 
Concerning kneeling, the old timey backyard meca'nic could mount the piston between opposing files in a bench vise and then tap on one of the files to cause rotation of the piston, thus creating a kneeled surface. It's amazing what the noggin memory won't let loose of.
 
As far as a scored piston and performance, it will depend on how much and where. The piston skirt is the intake valve on a two stroke saw with no reeds. A really worn piston will usually show more performance loss than one with a small amount of scoring on the skirt. That is why we look for the machine marks on the piston as an indicator of wear.
So do those machine marks do the same thing as knurling a piston? Yes. That is why reknurling was a thing on car engines in the past.
 
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