why the higher rpm's?

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rmihalek

Where's the wood at?
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I was looking at the Chainsaw collector's page on acresinternet.com. I have a Husqvarna 266SE and was wondering about the difference between the SE/SG and the 266XP. All the specs look identical except for the operating rpm. The SE/SG says 8,500 rpm and the XP says 9300 rpm.

Does anyone know what would account for this difference other than running the XP leaner?
 
it is not running leaner the xp model has different port timing so it can cut at 9300 rpm's in the wood
 
I'm wondering then what top end the aftermarket is producing because I just got a Tecomec top end for the 266SE but it is also listed as a replacement part for the 266XP? Is the difference is the ports something I could measure with a ruler (like 0.5mm) or is the difference measured in thousandths?
 
I'm pretty sure the timing is MUCH more precise than .5mm its probably more like 1/3000 of an inch, but I believe that with the right tools you could change the port timing on your saw to increase performance.
 
I am certain that with the right tools I could change the port timing, but without the knowledge (which I don't have) I would be as likely to hurt as to improve performance. The same goes for just arbitrarily enlarging openings. Some times velocity is more important than volume. Probably a lot of trial and error goes into the making of a good modified saw builder. I think I'd practice on something I wasn't too attached to.

Frank
 
I was just wondering if the differences that EHP mentioned would be detectable by simply measuring the ports on my old (scored) cylinder and comparing that to the new Tecomec cylinder. I'm not yet ready to break out the Foredom tool and make changes...


The Tecomec was advertised as working for either the SE/SG or the XP, but now I'm wondering if by slapping on this aftermarket top end, I now have an XP. If so, I'll have to call Madsen's and get the XP sticker for the top cover! I can't let that extra 800 rpm's go unrecognized.
 
the easy way of checking is very simple on port timimg and this means you donot have to find top dead centre, i hope you have a degree wheel , your move your clutch and mount your degree wheel on the crankshaft, i use a piece of plastic pipe that fits over the crank and the degree wheel fits tight over the pipe , take some solder and wrap it around your studs that hold the bar on , flatten the end of your solder so it is a marker for your degree wheel, so let say we are trying to find our ext. port timing
bring your piston down until it just start to open your port , watch as carefull as you can on the port opening, set your degree wheel at zero degrees now roll your motor down and back up until your port is as close to closed as you can get and still see the top of your piston or light comimg threw the port , now we will say your degree wheel says 160 degrees , so divide that number by 2 because you went up and down so now you have 80 degrees of port opening, now if you want to know how many degrees from top dead centre , in one direction you have 180 degrees so take 180 degrees and minus your opening 80 degrees and you have 100 degrees from top dead centre before your port starts to open, very simple and alot easier than having to find top dead centre all the time
 
Port timin

Well, if oldsaw-addict is right, and I have no reason to doubt that he is, then the aftermarket jug is probably neither an OEM-spec SE/SG nor an OEM-spec XP, but something else all together. I can't imagine the aftermarket making products with specification differences in the tenths of thousandths.

Is there a resource for port specs on Husqvarna saws that any AS'ers are aware of?
 
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