Will a 1 ton arbor press work as chain breaker?

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Turbocaster

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I've been wanting to acquire a chain breaker for some time. I have a one ton arbor press now, along with the chain breaker anvil for various chain sizes. Can I just buy a breaker punch and use the arbor press? My press already has a 5/16 inch hole drilled in the bottom, which could be enlarged for the breaker punch if needed.

I don't know if the arbor press has enough "umphh" to do the job. I use .325 and 3/8ths pitch chain.

Thanks for any advice. I'd like to save the $50 or so on a new chain breaker if I can.

BTW, this chainsaw forum is the Greatest!!!!
 
Thanks for giving me an easy solution.

I never thought about grinding first and then punching it out! The simple solutions are frequently the best. I've been using a hand punch and a big hammer. I always thought that I was putting my fingers in jeopardy.

Thanks!
 
I never thought about grinding first and then punching it out! The simple solutions are frequently the best. I've been using a hand punch and a big hammer. I always thought that I was putting my fingers in jeopardy.

Thanks!

If you have one... a dremel works the nuts too. I find its a little more precise than getting your fingers and that tiny rivet up against a grinder. Personally, I have one of those 2" cuttoff wheels in the dremel for this job.
 
A better way is to grind the rivet to be removed down on a bench grinder ( use the corner of the wheel) and tap it out with a center punch. I do it this way all the time!!!

Thats how i've been doing my chains (motorcycle chains mostly) and that is definately the easiest way to break chain...
 
If you are agressive with the grinder you don't need a punch at all, just grind hard for about 1.5 seconds on each rivet and twist.
Be careful not to let the grinder grab the chain, pull it, and tear up your hands on the cutters.
Not that it's ever happened to me...
 
They work about 15- 25 times a day for us! The trick is that you have to be exactly centered on the rivit, and have the correct size die beneath the chain. Real easy to be off, and if so no amount of pressure will punch the rivit out - you just bend the tip.
 
Dremel idea sounds great.

Thanks for all the input. I have a Dremel tool, as well as a big grinder. The Dremel will probably allow me easier access to the rivets than my 8" grinder.

I've been making it way too hard; for too many years. Too bad I didn't discover this forum a few years earlier.

Thanks again!
 
I dont know about 1 ton, but 20 tons will do the job every time.:hmm3grin2orange:
 
What type of attachment should you use on your dremel to grind off the rivet? I have to break a chain or two... Thanks,
J.D.
edit: I used my bench grinder to break a loop of chain I needed to reduce in DL count...wow, so easy...almost as easy as when my real chain breaker was working...perfect no bending or screwing up of the drive links. I'd still like to know what dremel attachment works best for this same task in case I'm ever away from my workshop. thanks,
J.D.
 
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What type of attachment should you use on your dremel to grind off the rivet? I have to break a chain or two... Thanks,
J.D.
edit: I used my bench grinder to break a loop of chain I needed to reduce in DL count...wow, so easy...almost as easy as when my real chain breaker was working...perfect no bending or screwing up of the drive links. I'd still like to know what dremel attachment works best for this same task in case I'm ever away from my workshop. thanks,
J.D.

** I have various attachments for my dremel tool. I've had my Dremel since I was building slot cars in the late sixties. They make a stone that is about 1/2"-5/8" in diameter. It will do the job fine.

jerry-
 
Am I the only one that HASN'T used a grinder to break chains?....

I thought that was what chain breakers were for..... :laugh:
 
If you look at a racing chain you'll notice they grind off all the rivet heads.This increases chip flow and lightens the chain for faster cutting.
This works because the holes in the tie straps are tapered. Which means to completely release the rivet, you need to grind down into the tie strap a ways.
 
Are you sure about that Mike? The joiner link covers have no "direction" and mount either way. I'd think it was because of the expanded metal in the holes from the spining process. ??
 
If a guy wanted to get set-up with a spinner and breaker, are there any specific brands you would recommend? Where can they be purchased? How do the spinner/breaker Bailey's sells hold up? I ask because I am in the market.
 
My breaker from Baileys broke within a couple years and I am not making that many chains as I am not a professional sawyer...works good, cheap, but the metal actually split, the part on which you set your anvil and the chain to be broken.
 

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