Will a Ms661 jug fit a Ms660?

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G.W

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Does anyone know the difference? If the prot timing, bolt pattern, and ports are the same I don't see why it wouldn't work. Opinions?
 
Im looking at aftermarket because I bought a bottom end without the jug, and oem jugs are kinda expensive
 
I can get a better quality 661 jug than a 660 jug for cheaper. Im probably gonna order a cheap replacement jug until I can afford an oem one
Meteor make a 660 cylinder and piston kit. Ive used a few and they have always worked great. As aftermarket makes go, they are meant to be amoung the best. I try to buy both piston and cylinder together, so there is a good chance they will fit each other.
 
I have here, a "big bore" 56mm Chinese cylinder saw - all Stihl bottom end, pretty much the rest of the saw has been made with parts taken off saws bought to me for repair- where cheap parts were swapped out for old secondhand OEM ones- the collected take off parts put together as a saw, wearing a new big bore cylinder someone wanted fitted to their saw until we did so and ran it against some OEM 54mm saws- it did not produce the power to keep up let alone beat the OEM saws.

So, yes, you can buy cheap and make a saw run- it just might not run as well as a good 064 or even 046/460 can and certainly will not last as many run hours or seasons.

New OEM, good 2nd hand OEM, Meteor, Hyway are my selections in order of preference for quality and power produced in standard bore sizes with no tinkering done to port timing or machine work- just bolt on and play.

Advertise on here- someone will have a secondhand top end for an 066 or 660 for sale.
In my opinion- if you feel you need "better" than 660 spec for some reason- try to find an early non decomp 066 cylinder to put on your bottom end, they were perhaps the best power wise- but no decomp can make for interesting cold starting.

Like Gord says, check out the bottom end. Not sure what it is like where you live- but here most old missing bits 066/660 saws are ex commercial forestry saws and have done huge hours before being retired- huge hours = wear. You need to confirm all bearings and oil seals are good, case is not suffering damage or stripped out holes for all the bits that bolt on, cracked or wallowed out AV pockets and the like.

066/660 does not need big bore upgrades- they are a damn fine saw in original spec.
 
Im looking at aftermarket because I bought a bottom end without the jug, and oem jugs are kinda expensive
Welcome to reality.

the big bore kits actually make less power in the 066/660s.
I tried the Bailey’s kit 25 yrs ago on my 066. Took 5 min of cutting to swap it all back and throw away the kit.
 
Honestly OP, it would really be in your saws' best interest to just spend the money and get the OEM jug and slug. I did, even though it was pricey and my saw is like new again. Some thing are just better OEM. You could get wild and have the saw ported and really get crazy.
 
The story behind the saw was it was a retired forestry saw. My buddy was rebuilding it, and it ended up going on the shelf. I asked about the jug and he said he used it on another saw, and hed look for another one for me. He ended up moving away and I decided it wasn't worth the hassle to ask him to send me a jug. Ill look at the suggested jugs. Thanks!
 
Have had no problem with Metior, but you had better find out why the first jug got hooped. -pressure vacc test wen you get a jug on it
Agree, this goes without saying. There is no point spending lots of money on replacement parts just for them to fail again.

I spend hours sealing up either end of the saw with pieces of rubber, blocks of wood and clamps. If in any doubt that there might be a leak, I dunk the saw in water. I even tested a saw again the other day after a few hours of use - It was an old saw with unobtainable parts so I'd had to make and scrounge gaskets, intake boots and a fair amount of liquid sealant. You never really know how these perform, so I stripped and tested it again. All good!
 

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