Winter Bar Oil

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jokers

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Now that Walt is on a hiatus I figure it`s a good time to bring this up, besides, I think Fish said we should discuss bar oil. What does everyone else use when the weather turns cold? Winter grade, a little diesel in the summer grade, 10w motor oil, ATF? I`ve been using new aw20 hydraulic oil for the past week with good results but it may be too early too say. How `bout it from the rest of you abominable snowmen. Russ:confused:
 
It hasn't been cold enough here to start using winter-weight oil. I generally start using it when the temperature drops to the mid-20's during the day. But when I do start, I use the Husky or Stihl winter-weight, as distributed by the manufacturer. My reasoning is that I can buy a gallon of the low-temp for the same price as the regular stuff, and not have to fool around with adding anything to the summer-weight.

As for the oils that were not put together specifically as bar/chain oil, I don't have any experience, except for the time I used dish soap (Palmolive, I believe), to cut some holes in the ice for some spearfishing. Is the cost advantage there to use transmission oil, or motor oil? I can buy a gallon of bar/chain oil for about $3.75, but a quart of "generic" 30-wt motor oil costs about $1.25, or about $5.00/gallon. Given this, the cost advantage in my case would have to come from longevity of cutting attachments, and since I have no comparison to judge against, I have stuck with what I know, and have had no complaints.
 
Hi Christian, It`s not cost, I generally pay $2.50/gal for summer grade and I pay $13/ 5gal for the aw20. It`s strictly been convenience and it seems to work well. Out in the boonies were I am, I have to travel about 25 miles of back road to get to a dealer who has winter grade and I don`t like to stock it for what ever hard headed reason I have. Just wondering about everyone else. Russ
 
Hi Russ, and all this time I thought it was Fish that liked to stir things up! lol
I always believed that it is the amount of oil delivered to the bar and not nessecarily the type of oil that is important. ( see how you have drawn me into the fray?).
Traditional bar lube soon looses its viscosity due to the heat from the muffler that is generally situated directly above the oil tank. Pourability is the only factor during colder weather.
Transmission fluid is my favourite, but bar lube is equally good, as is motor oil.
The kenetic tackifiability of any oil, regardless of it's viscousness is inconsequential as most oil is thrown off the bar tip or into the sidecover or is simply absorbed by the woodchips. Only a small % of the lube does what it is supposed to do, this is why I always give a well oiled start by goosing the throttle a few times.
Long extended cuts in big wood with long bars get a bit dry, especially in hardwoods. This is why we need sharp chain along with the shortest bar that will do the job.
Too Tall Taciturn Ted
 
Hi Russ, I use transmission hydraulic because I have a 200 litre barrel, but general purpose hydraulic is more than fine to use.
John
 
Dang John,
You are cranking out some impressive Galer-like posts here,
big Montana size words and all. Keep it up.
Fish
 
usuauly when i cut int he winter time i use my normal bar oil (30 wt motor oil) with a dash of keroseen in it. the kersoeen will also keep the pitch from the wood from cloging up in your bar and chain. this is really evident in the ever greens. but happy cutting.
 
Yeah John, I think we`re talking the same thing. It`s what you put in the combination gear box/hydraulic sump. I call it the "all purpose" as opposed to hydraulic oil. Russ
 
Hi Fish, I was trying to pontificate as much as possible. I got the lingo from the TSF lubrification war, however my large words are only in jest.
The Village Idiot
 
I knew it once I saw the word tackifiability, that is one impressive
word. I started having flashbacks....
Fish
 
Hi Fish, I have that whole argument copied somewhere, but I think it would be too cruel to attach it here, but I will never forget the "turd in the salad bowl" remark. Who said that anyway?
John
 
One of my many enemies used that one. I used, "I know dog
poop when I step in it". It has always been one of my favorites.
I believe a boy named Darren was hot and heavy in that battle
for a while, but he never posted his e-mail address, and dropped out shortly thereafter. I just wanted for him to say that all of his
big words in the discussion just meant "stickier". Man, that forum
was alive for a while, just as this one is at the moment. Walt
was preaching hard and heavy for regular motor oil, I remember
a lot of sore feelings about bar oil.
Fish
 
When are you boys gonna grow up and take some responsibility for your actions? Put aside your selfish motives and show some concern for the world. You should be using an environmentally friendly oil such as Husky Pro Forest or Stihl Bio Plus. These are made from vegetable oil and are completely biodegradable.
 
Hi Fish, vegetable oil is used quite extensively up here in the Great White North, but it must be of the hyrogenated type, which renders it much like axle grease during inclement weather, however, with a detackifier such as linseed oil it works rather nicely. Boot dubbin can also be brought into a solution again on the woodstove, to which spring grade bar lube can be added. This makes a rather nice concoction and doubles equally well as a leather sealant for logging boots also known as Mink Oil.
John
 
Brett, I`m all for environmental responsibility, but there has to be a balance. An environmentally friendly product should not have to cost 1000% of what a normal product costs, especially when you consider where the raw material comes from. I have no idea what processes the veggie oil must go through to become bar oil but I`d bet that the plant was in the begining, much cheaper to harvest than the dino oil is to draw from the ground, and I doubt that the veggie refining or formulation cost more than oil refining and formulation. I also understand the "economy of scale" issue involved, that the price should go down if more is produced to meet demand. Seems to me that Husky and Stihl want to be perceived by tree huggers to some small extent, as environmentalists while the end user, us, has to take it on the chin. I don`t think there is a serious commitment on the part of the manufacturers to make this oil economically viable. All they have to do 5 or 10 years from now when Eco-oil is no longer available due to lack of demand, is say that the barbaric loggers and tree men would not accept technological advancement, so what would you have us do as a manufacturer, sell the oil at a LOSS and potentially threaten job security for thousands at our plants?Just makes me wonder. Unless you have defeated the screw limiters on all of your saws and tach tune them daily, you are probably causing more pollution through a rich running saw than you would in excess bar oil slung around. And unless you drive electric vehicles or at least the most fuel efficient vehicle you can, advocate nuclear and hydro electric power generation from the currently available technologies, and have no recreational vehicles with a fossil fuel burning engine, you are preaching from a soapbox that I can`t even see. Russ
 
Every litter bit hurts.

I know a few guys running off the shelf veggie oil for chain lube. Tom Dunlap for one.

I do agree the Stihl eco lube is outrageously priced.

Does anyone make a bar oil with a low sling coefficient?:D
 
Do you guys remember when recycled consumer paper cost about 2 to 3 times what paper made from virgin pulp did? Now, you can get recycled paper for the same price, or even less. The same thing happens in other markets, too. Recycled steel cost quite a bit more than steel made from coke, ore, and mineral ingredients 20 years ago, but now the steel industry is pissing and moaning about cheap recycled steel cutting their margins. Hey, Big Beth declared bankruptcy, didn't they?

My point is, enviro-friendly oils will probably do the same, though that's no consolation to Treeman, today. As I see it, the root cause of the problem is that the technology, if we can call it that, is still untested, for the use of vegetable-based chain oils. Not enough heavy users, i.e. logging companies, major timber products companies with their own crews, etc., have tried the veggie products, and the manufacturers have not established a market. A few horse loggers, environmentally concerned arborists, or the Harry Homeowner will not and can not make a difference in how the manufacturers view their consumer base.

Take again, for example, the recycled paper market. It was not until the Fortune 500 companies demanded that their office paper be made of at least XX% recycled base that the price of recycled paper came down. It takes the major users of a product to get attention these days.

Consequently, the only way that the the price of the veggie oils will come down is when the major users embrace the technology, deem it good through experiential evidence, and start buying it because of whatever environmental standard they are certified to, be it ISO 14001, CLI, SFI, etc.

That said, Treeman, what kind of results do you get with the veggie oils? You and I seem to be the only champion of them here, but, unfortunately, my dealers won't even carry them for me, since they have to buy more than I can use in a year, and I don't have the long-term experience with them that I would like. So, I can't get the opportunity to use them, other than sporadically with the two gallons I have tucked away in the barn.

Russ and Others,

Refer to my Thanksgiving weekend post about exhaust emissions vs. bar luve. The environmental impact from exhaust and bar oil are independent. A well-tuned saw can still spew a lot of slowly degradable petroleum-based lube, or a poorly-tuned saw can use all the vegetable oil it wants. Neither has to do with the other.

We should all do what we can, within reason, to minimize our impact on the environment. Let's face it, we are not in a public-friendly industry, and taking a hard-ass standpoint isn't going to help. Granted, the forestry products industry has taken a good turn since HD has marketed the SFI lumber, but unless we each do our part, something's missing. We can't all do it, economically, like I said, but if we can....

I hate to be a down-the-snoot-looking-liberal-thinker, but that's the reality. I could show you several studies that prove that clear-cutting will not be be a viable silvicultural technique for use on public lands in the immediate future due to social inacceptability, regardless of the ecological or siilvicultural importance of its use in replacement of natural fire.

I know we all want to be tough guys, self-reliant, with bruised and greasy knuckles, and we can. But to stay that way, we have to adapt to what society is willing to accept. Trust me, the choice of making a few small changes as opposed to throwing in the hat is well woth the small sacrifice.
 
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Christian, I don`t think I ever said that veggie oils are no good. I have no idea since I have never used them. My points are as follows: 1) We as the consumers should not have to take a schlonging to test them and prove or disprove their viability, and 2) Anyone who sermonizes and condescends such as in Treemans post about us boys growing up and taking responsibilty for our actions, is nothing more than a hypocrite or zealot if they themselves don`t live by their own advice, and take all the little steps within their ability to clean up the environment. I`m willing to bet that neither Treeman or anyone else who posts here has any idea what steps I take to protect our environment. I think my references to a persons choices when it comes to fuel burning RVs such as boats, snowmobiles, unnecessary gas guzzling vehicles, etc., and complacency about how the utilities generate electric, are alot more significant than the issue of bar oil pollution. Just in the simplest terms consider the magnitude of each pollution contributor, based on the number of people polluting in that particular way. So once again, I did not say enviro oils are bad and that I will not use them, just that I will not use them at $20/gal. Russ
 
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