Winter Model Dolmar

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Hi Paul.

I think sometimes when the land ain't flat and you don't want to make the felling cuts from where you can with the top of the bar, it's nice to have the option of batting left-handed.

Glen
 
I prefer that position mostly and when on a hillside the slope dictates what side one can cut from sometimes, also most of my cutting is done with a pulling chain, so on large trees when a guy has to go to the offside to finish the face the saw needs to get flipped, if you use a pushing chain its harder to match cuts due to changes in the pitch and roll of the bar.
 
I think I see a triple-activated chain brake on the Dolmar 5000, similar to the one on the 036QS.

One advantage of the full wrap is when you're on steep slopes, in big timber, and you're occasionally using the saw over your head, or cutting jack seats. You have to flip the saw around a lot to easily enter/exit your cuts, and "sweep" out long cuts to make they match up.

Like Wiley said, "back-bar"-ing in big timber leads to a lot of cutting errors.
 
Just to touch on the real "need" for heated handles, or in many cases the actual necessity VS simply what the customer....wants.

Two things that very seldom discussed but greatly affect body comfort, and safety are:

1. Vibrations
Capillaries will constrict (shrink) due to both vibration frequency and time. As that happens blood supply is greatly reduced which cause a few problems of it's own.
> Less heat supplied to muscle tissue...cold muscles.
> Lactic acid build up will produce cramping, and fatigue.
> Muscle, ligament, tendon tempature drops and will cause slower muscle movement to the point of cramping, or tingling sensations.

Blood flow is very important to muscle performance, safety, and last but not least.....comfort.
For example, if a tiny capaillary has just a 0.10 (one tenth)mm reduction in diameter....volume can be reduced almost 30-40%!!!
If it get hammered by vibration, and cold...a 0.20 (two tenths)mm constriction can cut blood flow over 60%.

It's no secret why fingers get cold!

As we get older....extremity blood supply (hands & feet) starts to drop, so it doesn't get better.

If this continues a disease known as Raynaud's, or "White Fingers" can occur.

Some chain saw anti vibe designs, some bars, and now even some chain chassis designs are helping to improve safety, and comfort by reducing felt vibration.

There are significant differences.


2. Proper Clothing
Just had a conversation with a Pennsylvania logger that technically was very knowledgeable about his equipment, and was complaining of cold fingers & feet.

Asked him what kind of material his gloves, socks and underwear were made of. "Cotton" he said.
One of the worst materials to use for active movement.
Look at what the best mountain climbers, skiers, back packers, campers, cold weather water fowl-cold weather guides, or splunkers (cave explorers) wear.
Cotton can be a death trap for them.

Cotton is 'hydrophyillic' or water loving, holding onto body persiration. It doesn't dry as fast, nor does it spread out (wick) water around the clothing aka Hydrophobic.

Heat travels from places of high tempature to low. Since the body is warmer than the 'wet' clothing, the body heat is drawn to the cooler clothing, losing body heat.
As the 'body core' temp drops, the brain automatically cuts blood supply to limbs, and the extremities to keep the 'core' and the brain warm.

Thus cold fingers, and feet are a natural, normal result of bad clothing.

I'm not saying that heated handles aren't needed in some really cold areas, or by cutters who can benefit by using them, but I'm saying that some saws, some chains, proper chain maintenance, and definately proper clothing can really make the difference between actually needing heated handles.
 
exhausted?

Has anyone ever seen or tried to make a system that would use exhaust gas to heat the handles? Maybe the handle could be sealed and a small hollow outlet could be tapped into the muffler, with a 1/16th inch opening, and then a little braided steel line could carry the hot gases into the handle and then a similiar line at the other end of the handle could return the gas to the muffler. Or, the end of the handle on the bottom of the saw could be left open and the small amount of exhaust gas needed to heat the handle could exit through the handle. It seems simpler than doing it electrically.
 
Partner did it years ago.
It worked, but required cleaning maintenance due to carbon build up, was a bio hazard if any leaks developed, and today with the emissions regs would be problematic not worth selling.
 
S-

I hope crow is in season. I found a Dolmar dealer not 5 miles from home today. There's nothing picayune about the 7900, and the Makita in its signature blue trim certainly is a vivaciously wanton change from orange.

This means I will buy the PS5000 or its Makita twin when it arrives.

C-
 

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