Wire broke off hyd pump, how dissassm?

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I wish I could order a replacement coil only. I already ordered the new idler bearing for this unit. I am going to TRY to solder to the nub of wiring that is sticking up out of that hole, but when it fails I'll wish I had installed a whole new clutch. HOping to order one from somewhere with free return shipping in case my matching by eyeball fails.
I am almost sure it's the
Murray Climate Control 7 Inch Clutch Assembly
Part # 47938 Line: MRY
 
47534 clutch number for murray is IDENTICAL looking, 7 inch double pulley and TWELVE volt, I was looking at the other one that was 24 volt...
 
It's on amazon with free ship and free returns, I'll solder mine and then see how I feel in the morning...…...…...… I am positive that's it, thanks for steering me in the right direction! I had NO CLUE where to find stuff like that, nor did I know it was available so readily. Are the hydraulic pumps that easy to get too? (I'll never need one)
 
yea if you do your search you can find the power units..
I had posted one of the mfg's for pto kits.
they even have pump kits for the late model trucks.
most of the time you are looking at hoses as the issue..
go gates.. and more good farm implement dealers have hoses for low cost.
they make them custom in house.

most of the time a 24 volt clutch will work on a 12 volt system.
it all depends on the coil ratings..
I use a lot of 24 volt relays on 12 volt systems... lower coil current..
but for smart computer controlled systems you have to watch the coil current..
it could trouble fault out as open coil..

yea if you are real good with a Dremel you could route out the bad coil form wire a bit..
use a fine ball bit.
and skip the coffee!! lol!!
a drop of solder as a ball then fasten the wire to the ball and rtv it for support...
I use a lot of the gear lube rated rtv it is stiffer when cured..
and it is still rated for electrical.
Permatex Gear Oil RTV Gasket Maker
Part # 81182 Line: PER
https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...v-gasket-maker/81182/4610249?q=gear+rtv&pos=0
 
Wow, you've been there done that! I was able t to solder to the nubs sticking up and heat shrink. Seems strong. I vise gripped the coil to mount and put voltage to it. Shouldn't it be magnetic? It's not as is. Was hoping to reassemble without buying new clutch.

So should it be magnetic? (Vise grips have it grounded.
And: how are you supposed to tighten nut that hold the clutch on!? It'll just rotate.
Basically do you have to pull pump off and split pump each time your electric clutch needs serviced? Holding gear on shaft with inner tube and vise grips.....
 

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measure the coil current.
it should be 5 to 15 amps
depending on your connection you may not to have got enough of the wire to make a good low current connection.
you can also check it with an ohm meter.
it should be less than 10.0 ohms and closer to 2.0 to 5.0 ohms.

best to test both
 
Yes, it looks like I need to use that three-pronged handled tool hold the clutch still. I saw a video from a different company that said it was 12 foot pounds to put that bolt on that holds the clutch that sound about right? Should a man use threadlocker?
I did the free loaner tool at AutoZone and got that tool to hold the clutch so if I can just get the bearing in the mail I'll put it back together and see if it works, because I don't know how to do amps or ohms. I just read voltage with a multimeter.
I'll just put it all back together flip the switch and see if it engages or not. It works perfectly before the wire broke. So if it doesn't work I'll use the clutch holding tool take the bolt back out smack clutch off of there with a rubber mallet or puller, and then order a new clutch for $113 on Amazon.
Apparently the clutch can be changed without splitting the pump in half and very risky holding the gear with inner tube and vice grips like an idiot that I was earlier.
I think after unbolting the pump from the bracket, I can change the clutch without disconnecting the hydraulic lines.
Thanks for your information, it's been tremendously helpful.
 
I need a new bolt and cone shaped washer that holds clutch on. Bolt looked normal, washer.....not so sure. Where they sell them like those? Tsc I wish.
 
just use grade 8 hardware.
and blue 242 Loctite on the bolt threads.
there is also fender washers or large diameter washers.
thick hard washer is the norm on these.
 
if you can find autohard washers in your size those are the trick things to use.
they are grade 12 or harder.
they use those in industrial stuff like this where the bolt head is way smaller than the part they are holding on or in place.

I use autohard on fan finger guards.
they do not distort with 80 plus foot lbs!!
mc master carr has them..
my guys over in china had them before they shut down..

what size of bolt are you doing?
 
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