Wood gloves????

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I use the thinner leather gloves they have a good feel for saw handling and splitting. To make them last longer, before they get holes in them I wrap the finger tips with hockey tape ( the tape for wrapping hockey sticks,ect.) it makes them last a lot longer. As the tape wears or comes off just re wrap hockey tape is cheaper than new gloves.
 
I also only wear gloves in the winter. Sometimes.

I usually lose them before they wear out. I just head down to the Rochester indoor fleamarket periodically. Overstock remainder gloves are $2/pair.

That's a dollar a hand. Or 20 cents a finger. Cheap enough!
 
Early this spring I started using my husqvarna chainsaw gloves. They've been used for the last three years just with the chainsaw, but I wore out my cheap-o gloves and started using the husky's. I've, cut, split, and stacked about 12 cords this year and they are still in great condition. After a mishap with dirty hydraulic fluid one of them is no longer white and blue and after cleaning and drying it's a little "crusty," but still no holes. They're a little pricey, but fit well, warm, and very comfy leather.

Gixxer,

Those husky Gloves, are they cloth backs?

Reason I'm askin' is around here we have a Gawdawfull lot of Greenbrier and other brambles, and the mechanics gloves get to looking like a Dog chewed on them pretty Quick in that crap, and I hate it when the briars and burdock(Porcupine eggs;) ) get ahold and hang on.

Thanks!
Dingeryote
 
What's tough to find is good insulated gloves that hold up for under 20 bucks!

Still ain't found any.


Stay safe!
Dingeryote

Got a set of Carhartt insulated leather/canvas duck backed for about a 20 spot last fall at TSC, they are still in decent shape, and plenty warm as long as you're doing something - not fit for ice fishing or sitting in a treestand, but good work gloves.

Warmer weather, the Atlases find their way home from work in my back pocket occasionally. They work MUCH better for wood than the oily metal we handle with them at work. They are excellent wood/garden gloves.

Also have a pair of CE Schmidt uninsulated, I think deerskin. Lots of stacking wood, and now on barb wire duty, still good.

Maybe I just don't work as hard as you guys?
 
Another big Atlas glove fan. I wear the 370BBK in warm weather, the Therma-Fit 300i for most of the year, and the EXT900 Therma Plus when it's below freezing.

I am constantly amazed how well they hold up. Until one of the guys at the lumberyard dared me to try a pair, I thought only leather would work for rough conditions. I was wrong!

-=[ Grant ]=-
 
I usually buy inexpensive work gloves for a couple three bucks a pair. Occaisionally I extend my mileage with some ductape. :cheers:

The longest lasting work glove I ever owned were Carhart. Somewhere around $18 / pair (too much for work gloves IMO). But...... they did last the longest.
 
Well since I got the hyd splitter I don't go through gloves anymore.:)
But swinging a Axe or Maul I was going through a pair of cheap Gloves every cord. You tend to get what you pay for like almost everything in life.
I have three pairs of Gloves made out of Moose Hide and I think they will out live me!
Let's see
$35.00 for a Moose tag plus three year wait to get my draw.
$100.00 in Gas to go hunting.
$100.00 spent on food for the hunt.

$60.00 for getting the gloves made But that was a good deal as they tanned the whole hide for leather and measured my hands,for a perfect fit. Local Hutterites did it, part of the deal was they get to keep the rest of the hide.

For you guy's that don't know what a Hutterite is they are like the Mennonites except they have all the modern Farming equipment and trucks and mainly speak German.
 
personally i wear kinkos in the winter and usually nothing in the summer. somtimes ill wear mechanix type tight fitting gloves in summer.

regardless this is what i do.

cut a balsam fir or white pine. let it sit for 2-3 days, in the mean time go buy your gloves. now handle handle the end grain of the wood that has bled pitch all over the place. then paw some leaves and brush around so that the pitch is no longer sticky.

the pitch forms a very tough layer on the palm and fingers of the gloves. and since you wore them as the pitch was setting the joints where your fingers move will move freely.
 
this is what i do.

cut a balsam fir or white pine. let it sit for 2-3 days, in the mean time go buy your gloves. now handle handle the end grain of the wood that has bled pitch all over the place. then paw some leaves and brush around so that the pitch is no longer sticky.

the pitch forms a very tough layer on the palm and fingers of the gloves. and since you wore them as the pitch was setting the joints where your fingers move will move freely.

That's a good idea I will have to try that.
 
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