Wood question
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curdy
ArboristSite Operative
Great thread guys. This is my first year burning for heat so I'm learning as I go with a lot of things. I split and stacked a bunch in the spring that I had bucked over a year ago and I'm finding some of the wood to be a little more green than expected. (A couple of the pieces will hiss a little when its tossed in the stove, but only for a minute or two)
I've heard that the bark falling off is a good indicator that the moisture is at a desirable level. Well, some of the pieces are losing the bark and some aren't. I decided to try some of the tips you guys gave and set up a drying room with a dehumidifier. I took over the 1/2 bathroom I have with a full variety of the wood stacked crisscross. I cranked the unit and let it run for 2 days. Didn't even get 10 pints of water out...which doesn't really surprise me too much being the wood was already pretty dry and it was only a couple days worth of wood.
BUT...the bark is still pretty darn stuck on some of the pieces. Any thoughts and comments one this?
I've heard that the bark falling off is a good indicator that the moisture is at a desirable level. Well, some of the pieces are losing the bark and some aren't. I decided to try some of the tips you guys gave and set up a drying room with a dehumidifier. I took over the 1/2 bathroom I have with a full variety of the wood stacked crisscross. I cranked the unit and let it run for 2 days. Didn't even get 10 pints of water out...which doesn't really surprise me too much being the wood was already pretty dry and it was only a couple days worth of wood.
BUT...the bark is still pretty darn stuck on some of the pieces. Any thoughts and comments one this?
Dr. Hackemoff
ArboristSite Operative
danielmccurdy said:
Many species don't drop bark easily, such as ash. Elm however (at least the stuff I burn) is best cut when it's standing dead and the bark is falling off.
Others here will have much more to share I'm sure...good luck
da hack
curdy
ArboristSite Operative
Oak and Maple. Any thoughts on weathering having an effect on the bark? The trees that were standing dead and I cut lost the bark by now. Same species, but healthier trees when cut seem to be holding on tight still. So would the direct exposure to the elements do anything?
Last year my answer to this question would be that the wood was still green. But I mentioned drying it with the dehumidifier and I figure the stuff is pretty darn dry now.
I guess my question really is: Is the bark falling off an 'accurate' way to tell if the wood is dry enough?
Last year my answer to this question would be that the wood was still green. But I mentioned drying it with the dehumidifier and I figure the stuff is pretty darn dry now.
I guess my question really is: Is the bark falling off an 'accurate' way to tell if the wood is dry enough?
Woodsrover
ArboristSite Operative
Is this a silly thread or is it just me?
Are you guys cutting and splitting green wood and expecting to burn it right away?
I just thought it was common practice to cut and split wood a year in advance and keep it under cover. This year's wood has been split and stacked under a shed roof since last February, next year's is cut and under cover and will be split and stacked again over the next couple months.
I'm already eyeing and marking the trees I'll be cutting for the '08-'09 season.
jim
Are you guys cutting and splitting green wood and expecting to burn it right away?
I just thought it was common practice to cut and split wood a year in advance and keep it under cover. This year's wood has been split and stacked under a shed roof since last February, next year's is cut and under cover and will be split and stacked again over the next couple months.
I'm already eyeing and marking the trees I'll be cutting for the '08-'09 season.
jim
Woodsrover said:
That's the way to do it-a little foresight and planning ahead makes a HUGE difference and makes the woodburning experience that much more easier and enjoyable. I know that everyone is a "newbie" at one time (we all were) and you learn as you go, and I'm not calling anyone out here, just making a general statement; but I don't understand WHY people can't seem to get that concept of planning ahead-it's really not difficult.
Husky137
Addicted to ArboristSite
I'll be right back, I have to go fill my bathroom up with firewood.:greenchainsaw:
Woodsrover said:
PA. Woodsman said:That's the way to do it-a little foresight and planning ahead makes a HUGE difference and makes the woodburning experience that much more easier and enjoyable. I know that everyone is a "newbie" at one time (we all were) and you learn as you go, and I'm not calling anyone out here, just making a general statement; but I don't understand WHY people can't seem to get that concept of planning ahead-it's really not difficult.
first of all ive been cutting firewood for over 25 years, i'm hardly new at this.
the difference is I NO LONGER live in the country, nor do i even have storage for wood. I used to cut wood with dad and stockpile it for two years in advance (WE HAD THE STORAGE SPACE TO DO SO)
yes, i am splitting green wood and burning it several days later, with very little creosote buildup. Drying it the way i dry it, the wood ignites fast, burns hot and long and i have yet to see creosote buildup during the bi-monthly chimnney inspections.
I do NOT have ANY area other than a tiny room to store firewood. (another reason i sell green wood, and LOTS of it too - no storage space).
if i had a place like i used to have (in the COUNTRY), with three dedicated woodsheds and a huge woodlot, you better believe i would stock hundred of cords of wood away, BUT I DONT HAVE that storage space...i live in a 600 SF apt in the city. sorry, until i move i'm going to keep on using heat, dehumidifiers and a helluva exhuast fan to rapidly dry my wood. Fir dries very quickly, and that is what i have access to. If you knew anything about moisture removal (i used to be a flood/disaster response tech/cleanup) you would know that it is very easy to RAPIDLY extract moisture from any porous item, using heat, rapid moving air and exhausting said moisture laden air out of the room. works gangbusters on wood.
sorry, not all of us can afford to live in the country right now. I inherited this apt, and plan on moving int he next few years, but with BC Canada real estate prices in the country ($800,000 to well over 5 million for unserviced, wooded lots), i cannot afford that.
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SRT-Tech said:
Like I said, I wasn't referring to anyone in particular, just agreeing with what this guy said about planning ahead. Wasn't talking about you, to you or anyone in particular. In fact, if you look on reply # 7 on page # 1 of this thread you'll see that I wished you well and understood your situation. No offense intended-I was talking to the people who CAN stock up on wood but DON'T do it, then wonder why they have problems.
SRT-Tech said:sorry, i probably came across as surly....I'm just stoked that i can apply techniques and technology from other areas in life, with excellent results.
and no, my storage room is'nt my bathroom :yoyo:
I understand..don't worry about it. Didn't mean to offend or upset you or anyone!
Woodsrover
ArboristSite Operative
SRT-Tech said:
Too humid!
Get yourself an old refrigerator
Turn the compressor in to a vacuum pump
Hook the vacuum pump into the fridge
Store your wood in your new vacuum chamber and boil the moisture out!
Wasn't trying to pi$$ in your Cheerios...Didn't understand your situation. Hey, if you want, store wood at my place. I'll keep an eye on it for you! Is Connecticut too far from BC?
jim
:hmm3grin2orange: :hmm3grin2orange: :hmm3grin2orange:
tell ya what, you pay for the "stumpage fees" and other tarrifs that the USA guvmint imposes on wood shipments from Canada , and half the shipping, and ill gladly send you all my firewood.
:hmm3grin2orange: :hmm3grin2orange: :hmm3grin2orange:
i'll be able to retire by 36!!!
:hmm3grin2orange:
and no offense taken by either of ya!!!
tell ya what, you pay for the "stumpage fees" and other tarrifs that the USA guvmint imposes on wood shipments from Canada , and half the shipping, and ill gladly send you all my firewood.
:hmm3grin2orange: :hmm3grin2orange: :hmm3grin2orange:
i'll be able to retire by 36!!!
:hmm3grin2orange:
and no offense taken by either of ya!!!
Dr. Hackemoff
ArboristSite Operative
Woodsrover said:
Jim, another way to put that is "Didn't mean to drop a turd in your punchbowl"...
Regards,
da hack
Gark
ArboristSite Operative
If mnovac13 still watches this thread, I have an idea. Wierd how some threads go off on tangents.
Wood that sizzles when started is too wet (IMHO). Attached pic shows one way to dry it very fast. An open-faced fireplace wouldn't work well for this method, but a fireplace insert might.
Drying wood in the rear of a fireplace burn chamber does work, but that's not optimal because the wood releases its moisture in the burn chamber, the water vapor mixes with the smoke going up the flu and contributes BIG TIME with the gasses and smoke to collect more flue creosote buildup. If the wood can be warmed (to dry it) outside of the burn chamber, the water vapors don't go up the flue but helps humidify the home air. If mnovac13 has only an open fireplace, it may be better to stack the wet wood loosely indoors and turn a fan on it for 5 days. If using an insert, stack the wood around the insert but don't lay the wood against it. A fan helps in either case.
In the attached pic, these logs are ready to burn after 2 nights' fire or one full days' burning. But then, the wood sat, split/stacked and uncovered for 2 months during summer.View attachment 40896
Wood that sizzles when started is too wet (IMHO). Attached pic shows one way to dry it very fast. An open-faced fireplace wouldn't work well for this method, but a fireplace insert might.
Drying wood in the rear of a fireplace burn chamber does work, but that's not optimal because the wood releases its moisture in the burn chamber, the water vapor mixes with the smoke going up the flu and contributes BIG TIME with the gasses and smoke to collect more flue creosote buildup. If the wood can be warmed (to dry it) outside of the burn chamber, the water vapors don't go up the flue but helps humidify the home air. If mnovac13 has only an open fireplace, it may be better to stack the wet wood loosely indoors and turn a fan on it for 5 days. If using an insert, stack the wood around the insert but don't lay the wood against it. A fan helps in either case.
In the attached pic, these logs are ready to burn after 2 nights' fire or one full days' burning. But then, the wood sat, split/stacked and uncovered for 2 months during summer.View attachment 40896
Husky137
Addicted to ArboristSite
the other dude uses his bathroom to dry wood ala SRT style.
curdy
ArboristSite Operative
Husky137 said:
That's good stuff! I find quite a bit of comedy in it too. Certainly not a permanent thing that's for sure! I thought, why not try it to see what it would do!
I understand totally with what people are saying about foresight...I kinda just moved into this house a little over a year ago. The stuff has been bucked for over a year and split and stacked for nearly 8-9 months. With what the place looked like then and now (both inside and out) Good Lord we've been busy...and as far as foresight goes, I got to it as soon as I could fit it in and I certainly thought this was enough time.
I may not have been too clear with my previous posts too...90+% of the wood I'm tossing in the stove is burning real well. There are just a couple of pieces from time to time that seem less seasoned than I would have expected.
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