woodruff key

[chainsawjunky]

I'm trying to get the woodruff key into the slot on the crankshaft and it isn't goin to well. Anybody have any suggestions or tricks to get the woodruff key into the slot? Thanks.

Evan

 

[ehgauss]

I've occasionally had this happen when there's a little proud metal or wire edge on either the key or the slots. A couple of light strokes with a stone, or jewelers' file usually fixes it without changing the basic dimensions of the slots or key. Gene Gauss

 

[chainsawjunky]

Thanks for the advice. It went in fine after I touched the slot with a file.

Evan

 

[Tree Sling'r]

I hold it length wise with a pair of needle nose and tap with a light hammer. If I can get it started I can usually finish it when I put the flywheel back on.

 

[chainsawjunky]

I hold it length wise with a pair of needle nose and tap with a light hammer. If I can get it started I can usually finish it when I put the flywheel back on.

Thats what I was trying to do at first but it just didn't want to go in. I ended up losing one key while holding it in the pliers and never found it. Pulled one off an extra crankshaft I had and then today I got another key at the dealer for the one I took it off of. Thanks for the help.

Evan

 

[tek9tim]

Umm... maybe don't put it in, advance the timing, and use threadlocker? Haha...

 

[Lakeside53]

Umm... maybe don't put it in, advance the timing, and use threadlocker? Haha...

If you did that, you still don't use threadlocker... The key is just for position, not locking, the nut is just for initial torque (to "stretch" the flywheel onto the taper), not flywheel retaining.... and you might want to get the flywheel off one day!

 

[Al Smith]

If you did that, you still don't use threadlocker... The key is just for position, not locking, the nuts is just for initial torque (to "stretch" the flywheel onto the taper), not flywheel retaining.... and you might want to get the flywheel off one day!

It is kind of hard for people to grasp the concept of a taper holding any thing.That however is exactly how a Morse taper works on a large drill bit ,or a drawbar type collet in a milling machine.

Another real old trick on a Woodruff type key is to very lightly put a tiny little chamfer on the leading[round] edge,just a little,not much.

 

[Mr.]

If you did that, you still don't use threadlocker... The key is just for position, not locking, the nut is just for initial torque (to "stretch" the flywheel onto the taper), not flywheel retaining.... and you might want to get the flywheel off one day!

My 2100 needs the flywheel off, but is threadlocked. Dang. I had to do something after it sheared 4 keys and came loose.

Screwed.

Fred

 

[Al Smith]

My 2100 needs the flywheel off, but is threadlocked. Dang. I had to do something after it sheared 4 keys and came loose.

Screwed.

Fred

Put a little heat on it Fred.Don't use a big old rosebud torch,a heat gun should work nicely.

If you get it off in one piece,clean the gunk out of it then lap the flywheel to the crank taper with fine valve grinding compound,then throw your threadlocker away.

 

[Mr.]

Thanks for the advice Al. I already put enough heat to it to cook the seal for sure, but no luck. I lapped it in a little with fine grade lapping compound before the locktite. I don't think I did it enough. I think I'll try something coarser and put the flywheel on a diet. Should have put it on a diet to begin with.

Keep the info coming Al. I need to know what you know.

Fred

 

[RaisedByWolves]

If you got it that hot and didnt get no love the thread locker isisnt your problem.


How are you going about removing it?




.

 

[Mr.]

How are you going about removing it?




.

Two pieces.

Fred

 

[drunkenredneck]

I would also advise while you had it off although it seems that you have already gotten it together to advance the ignition just a tad by a tad a quarter to a third of the width of the keyway. Rotate the flywheel counter clockwise that much then torque it down you will notice a little more torque and possibly some rpms but don't go further than about a third on a stock saw or you will have problems.

 

[Al Smith]

Two pieces.

Fred

Let's not get hastey now.If you have a puller plus some heat ,the danged thing would either have to come or bleed,just the law of physics.

 

[tek9tim]

If you did that, you still don't use threadlocker... The key is just for position, not locking, the nut is just for initial torque (to "stretch" the flywheel onto the taper), not flywheel retaining.... and you might want to get the flywheel off one day!

Good point. Not sure why I thought threadlocker was neccessary. Wouldn't do anything since you only need to stabilize the flywheel to the crank while you're putting the nut on, and the threadlocker wouldn't hold until it's dry. Ha, I had a dealer pull the flywheel on my 044 this spring, he asked why I wanted it off, I told him, and he said it wouldn't make any difference, and that the flywheel would slip out of position over time. I told him I'd done it before, and knew lots of people that had also, with no problems, now pull my flywheel, :newbie:

 

[Mr.]

Let's not get hastey now.If you have a puller plus some heat ,the danged thing would either have to come or bleed,just the law of physics.

I've pulled the threads out already. I'll try some large coarse onesbefore I go caveman on it, but I need the saw for a contest next month. One way or the other.

Fred