Yet Another Makita 6401 BBK Testimony

[Wood Doctor]

Today I worked on some more big elm. I found a 32" dia. log about 4' long and decided to harvest it for firewood. It was from a tree at least 4' in diameter at the base, and I believe it was red elm. Here's the result after the first buck with a 32" bar:

I then cut a cookie off the end to make two large rounds the same length, about 21" apiece. Too heavy to load onto my truck, I next rolled a round onto two small logs to free them from the ground. Then I changed to a 24" bar and started noodle cutting them in half. A wedge in the center eliminated pinching:

The wedge also helped push apart the half moons when the cut was completed:

These half moons were still too heavy to lift onto the truck's tailgate, so I noodle cut them in half again:

I repeated this procedure for the other big round from the original log. Then I packed the truck with the eight pieces of "gold":

All done! In two months or so after the bark falls off, I'll split them all. Believe you me, this Makita 6401 with a BBK (Big Bore) is a whale of a saw. I suppose that's why I made the scabbard for the bar in my shop using walnut. I really enjoyed using it. Thanks for looking.

 

[w8ye]

Looks like you had some fun

 

[tallguys]

That has to be the finest bar cover I have yet seen. Beautiful work, buddy!

 

[medic8852]

your bar scabbard is sweet looking. Can you post some pics of just the scabbard? Nice work. I cut alot of elm for firewood, darn stuff is heavy. Just has to be noodled down to make it managable. Usually splits pretty well, and burns great!

 

[Wood Doctor]

Hardwood Scabbards

your bar scabbard is sweet looking. Can you post some pics of just the scabbard? Nice work. I cut alot of elm for firewood, darn stuff is heavy. Just has to be noodled down to make it managable. Usually splits pretty well, and burns great!

Well, I have made these bar scabbards using walnut (shown), oak, ash, and just plain MDF. The hardwoods make the best. I resaw 4/4 stock and plain the sides to 5/16" thick. Then I use 3/4" wide pieces for the top and bottom. The fourth piece is the nose, also for 5/16" stock that I shape for the bar end.

I glue the pieces together with a bunch of clamps, making sure that the bar does not bind with a brand new chain that sets the maximum opening distance. Then I drill a hole in the end for braided nylon cord to hold the scabbard tight to the saw. Sand and varnish with three coats.

Realistically, 28" is the maximum bar length, otherwise a hardwood scabbard gets too heavy. I have also made a 25" scabbard for my Stihl bars that lock to the orange plastic case using a lower notch to hold it:

 

[medic8852]

very nice craftsmanship. Good job!

 

[ford832]

Wow,that's some nice looking wood,and scabbard..and saw.Sweet.

 

[WKEND LUMBERJAK]

That has to be the finest bar cover I have yet seen. Beautiful work, buddy!

Looks can be decieving they are much nicer in person. Edger post up some pics of your file handles. they are as nice as the bar covers.

 

[johncinco]

Get the bigger breather for that, you'll like it even better.

 

[Slamm]

I'm just curious, why do you use a wedge or door shim for a wedge on a cut where both halves are going to fall away from each other anyways?

Also why do you chock both sides, when its only going to roll one way, down hill?

Just wondering if there is a reason for that or you just saw someone else doing it or why.

Nice bar covers.

Sam

 

[Slamm]

Also red elm makes some of the best trailer decking boards for heavy duty trailers. I have it on my goose neck and the skidder chains with 22,000 lb skidders don't bother the boards one bit.

Often times skidders with big chains will break the individual boards due to the PSI of the weight and chain combo.

When I re-deck trailers I call sawmills looking for red elm.

Sam

 

[thomas1]

I'm just curious, why do you use a wedge or door shim for a wedge on a cut where both halves are going to fall away from each other anyways?

Also why do you chock both sides, when its only going to roll one way, down hill?

Just wondering if there is a reason for that or you just saw someone else doing it or why.

Nice bar covers.

Sam

I would guess it was less about chocking and more about elevating off of the ground?

 

[Wood Doctor]

Noodle Cutting Advice

I'm just curious, why do you use a wedge or door shim for a wedge on a cut where both halves are going to fall away from each other anyways?

Also why do you chock both sides, when its only going to roll one way, down hill? Just wondering if there is a reason for that or you just saw someone else doing it or why. Nice bar covers.

Sam

The two halves can bind the bar during the cut, especially when cutting elm--its grain has internal forces that you are releasing as you cut. The wedge prevents the binding.

I chock both sides to (1) stabilize the big round so that it does not roll during the cut and (2) lift it off the ground to avoid hitting the ground at the end of the cut.

 

[benp]

Awesome bar covers WD!!!

How did the saw do as far as the oiling aspect of the 32" bar?

 

[Wood Doctor]

Makita vs Stihl

Awesome bar covers WD!!!

How did the saw do as far as the oiling aspect of the 32" bar?

Hedgerow recommended that I open the auto oiler setting wide open when working with a long bar--say 32" and over. I did that and had no problems. The saw ran very cool with plenty of lube during the two big buck cuts shown above. And, I am running with an 8-pin sprocket rim that the 6401 seemed to like.

Another good friend, a logger with 20 years of experience, wants me to weigh this saw and compare its weight to his Stihl MS 650 and his MS 660 with a 36" bar. Then he wants to cut one-on-one against me, just to see if the Makita 6401 BBK can stay even.

That should be interesting. Frankly, I think the Makita 6401 with the BBK will hold its own against a $1,000 Stihl saw. I suppose I could be wrong. :msp_rolleyes:

 

[benp]

Hedgerow recommended that I open the auto oiler setting wide open when working with a long bar--say 32' and over. I did that and had no problems. The saw ran very cool with plenty of lube during the two big buck cuts shown above. And, I am running with an 8-pin sprocket rim that the 6401 seemed to like.

Another good friend, a logger with 20 years of experience, wants me to weigh this saw and compare its weight to his Stihl MS 650 and his MS 660 with a 36" bar. Then he wants to cut one-on-one against me, just to see if the Makita 6401 BBK can stay even.

That should be interesting. Frankly, I think the Makita 6401 with the BBK will hold its own against a $1,000 Stihl saw. I suppose I could be wrong. :msp_rolleyes:

That's great!!!!!:msp_thumbup: