Redmax two stroke oil for a reasonable price

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bwalker said:
VP may well be great oil, but don't assume it's better than a synthetic blend just because it's advertised as 100% synthetic.
In fact it mat be worse. Certain synthetics have almost no ability to protect against corrosion and to the contrary actually attract moisture from the air.
Years ago I had this issue with Redline two cycle racing oil and it wasn't pretty. It even corroded carb brass and it didn't take alot of time to do so either.
For those living in arid climates it's not as big of an issue but any place east of the Mississippi it certainly can be.
Again I am not saying VP is bad as I have never ran it and don't know. I'm just saying you really have to be careful with blanket statements/thinking like 100% synthetic is better than a syn blend, because often times, for our sorts of use it simply is not.
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Redline and Klotz KL200 dont have corrosive packages added. IMO all that is.
Not the 100% or 50/50 semi deal.

Why guys that love KL200 out in the PNW cold climates dont run it during the winter the KL200. I never had a problem here but I aint a logger either. Also got tired of buying by the case and ordering in.

VP can buy anywhere and coats just like the KL200 and never any sign of corrosive. For all I know I bet it has a corrosive package added. = Metal Deactivator protects from corrosive effects of ethanol in pump gas https://vpracingfuels.com/product/2-cycle-full-synthetic-oil/?c=245&
 
RedneckChainsawRepair said:
Redline and Klotz KL200 dont have corrosive packages added. IMO all that is.
Not the 100% or 50/50 semi deal.

Why guys that love KL200 out in the PNW cold climates dont run it during the winter the KL200. I never had a problem here but I aint a logger either. Also got tired of buying by the case and ordering in.

VP can buy anywhere and coats just like the KL200 and never any sign of corrosive. For all I know I bet it has a corrosive package added. = Metal Deactivator protects from corrosive effects of ethanol in pump gas https://vpracingfuels.com/product/2-cycle-full-synthetic-oil/?c=245&
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Redline absolutely did at the time I ran it and I can say that for certain. Regardless an ester based oil will never have great corrosion protection and added a little bit of calcium or magnesium doesn't change this greatly.
 
bwalker said:
Redline absolutely did at the time I ran it and I can say that for certain. Regardless an ester based oil will never have great corrosion protection and added a little bit of calcium or magnesium doesn't change this greatly.
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2007 on redline = Redline oil has a few known issues. Corrosion in carburetor internal parts is one of them. Also, very poor corrosion prevention internal to the engine.

2007
 
Tomos770 said:
JASO FC......TBN 1.X
JASO FD..... TBN is jumping 2 +/-

Look up any PDS...
Click to expand...
Which is miniscule. Those additives btw are detergents and are not purpose built anti corrosion additives.
JASO FD has a sulphated ash limit of .18 vs .25 for FC. As a result the TBN in theory will be lower for FD than FC.
The general trend in lubrication is toward lower TBN.
 
North by Northwest said:
Red Armor only 2 applications racing Drag sleds in snowmobiling when it 1st came out . 2nd in a 357 xp that I ported & ran 50:1 during its initial break in , so a few tanks . I then went with Interceptor at 40:1 for 3 yrs , most recently have switch to Dominator @ 44:1 with a fat tune . Dominator , my cost $48 Cdn. a gallon so Red Armor @ $50 USD. is a consideration for my 660 Milling saw . What does the cost in Ca. have any relativity ? P.S. Even at $60 USD. at todays price index for a Certified FD oil it's a consideration to me !
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Curious why you would run the dominator over the saber which is designed for chainsaws and such, and not liquid cooled motors.
 
The Shooters Apprentice said:
Curious why you would run the dominator over the saber which is designed for chainsaws and such, and not liquid cooled motors.
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If your speaking saws , your a little late to the party
The Shooters Apprentice said:
Curious why you would run the dominator over the saber which is designed for chainsaws and such, and not liquid cooled motors.
Click to expand...
Not sure of what your actual question is ? Why I don't run Saber in Saws or Why I have or would run Dominator in liquid cooled engines ? Either way your a little late to the party Mate . I have run & advocated Saber for any Consumer or homeowner stock saw since the cows came in brother ! It's because Amsoil always recommended Saber only between 50:1 to 100:1 ratios I never felt comfortable using it within Commercial or Professional or ported saws at those ratio's . I believe 40:1 / 44:1 with Interceptor , Dominator or Red Armor is a better fit ! However within Snowmobiles , I have no problem with Saber , Interceptor or Dominator @ 50:1 within a liquid cooled engine application . I would probably recommend Red Armor & Saber at 60 :1 within a Premix usage within Air Cooled Snowmobile's up to 600 cc & 50:1 over that within the 700 & 850 c.c. class sleds !
 
North by Northwest said:
If your speaking saws , your a little late to the party

Not sure of what your actual question is ? Why I don't run Saber in Saws or Why I have or would run Dominator in liquid cooled engines ? Either way your a little late to the party Mate . I have run & advocated Saber for any Consumer or homeowner stock saw since the cows came in brother ! It's because Amsoil always recommended Saber only between 50:1 to 100:1 ratios I never felt comfortable using it within Commercial or Professional or ported saws at those ratio's . I believe 40:1 / 44:1 with Interceptor , Dominator or Red Armor is a better fit ! However within Snowmobiles , I have no problem with Saber , Interceptor or Dominator @ 50:1 within a liquid cooled engine application . I would probably recommend Red Armor & Saber at 60 :1 within a Premix usage within Air Cooled Snowmobile's up to 600 cc & 50:1 over that within the 700 & 850 c.c. class sleds !
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Probably am a little late to the party. The saber I have says it can be run all the way down to 32:1. I personally run it 48:1
 
The Shooters Apprentice said:
;) Probably am a little late to the party. The saber I have says it can be run all the way down to 32:1. I personally run it 48:1
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Yeah , really not sure why they keep changing the game rules . 1st saber was listed for bikes , sleds & saws etc . Then only hand held units @ 100:1 . Then not richer than 50:1 . Then only 80-to 100:1 . Rather confusing , but you have a good handle on it , brother !
 
North by Northwest said:
Yeah , really not sure why they keep changing the game rules . 1st saber was listed for bikes , sleds & saws etc . Then only hand held units @ 100:1 . Then not richer than 50:1 . Then only 80-to 100:1 . Rather confusing , but you have a good handle on it , brother !
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Use saber at work though it is mixed at 65:1 which is 2 ounces per gallon used in any 2 cycle.
 
North by Northwest said:
I have buddies who swear by Saber @ 80:1 . A little lean for my liking , however their saws are over 10 yrs old . I would be interested seeing their crankcase puddling . ;)
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65:1 is easier to mix for us is the reason for the ratio.
Try to keep the oil warm at work otherwise it is hard to mix into cold gasoline opti 2 when it is cold is the absolute worst to mix when it is cold.
 
jellyroll said:
I use Schaeffer 9000 in my truck and can't complain about it. More expensive than mobil 1 but my truck is quiet running on it.
Click to expand...
I use Schaeffer 9000 full syn 2 cycle racing earl in my chainsaws at 32:1, 40:1 and then 50:1 in leaf blowers and weed hackers
 

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