Need help splitting case on my 066

[Lakeside53]

Stihl case splitting pictures - part 2 of 2

Flywheel side:

My way (still use it mostly as it really quick). Make sure you get the crank AND rod in the hole/slot. One quick press (2 ton arbor press) and it's out The damn thing obviously moved when I took the photo!.

Again : Make sure the crank AND the rod are centered in the wood hole... before pressing...

Stihl way. This tool has holes drilled to match up to all their various cases.

Press out the clutch side bearing - just select a socket size that will bear on the outside of the bearing..

And the Flywheel side - metric socket works best and you have no choice but to bear on the inside of the bearing. No big deal in most cases as you are throwing the bearing anyhow, and even if you're not, it will be o.k. if you are careful (no brute force!).

Total time - maybe 5 minutes... Takes a lot longer to write the AS post than to completely break down a case!

 

[RiverRat2]

Lake can any one buy those???

or are they dealer only stuff and what all saws are they good for ???

 

[Lakeside53]

They work for all saws from 024 though 088, and the cut-off saws. Maybe a few others also. Dealers aren't supposed to sell the tools, but many will. They are pretty expensive though.. even at dealer cost - the clutch side is about $140, and the ignition side about $110. Add in some dealer markup an you'd want to be serious about chainsaw work. I thought these were expensive until I priced out some Subaru special tools...

These tools are not just "pushers". The have various left and right-hand threaded attachments that screw onto the crankshaft ends to pull the cranks back onto the bearings for assembly.

If you just bought the the clutch side, you can improvise with the rest of the assembly or disassembly. For example, if you install the clutch side first, then you can use three longer screws to gently and evenly pull the crank onto the flywheel side bearing. If you are doing a lot of crankcase reassembly, the entire set is well worth the $$ in time savings.

 

[lumberjackchef]

Hey lake, about half of your pictures (mostly of your tools) are just red X's on my end. Did something happen to them or is it just my computer?

 

[Lakeside53]

Show us your ways...

Grrrr... I think it's fixed now...


So... what do the rest of you guys use? How about a Husky crankcase splitting pic set??

 

[lumberjackchef]

Success at last!

Third times a charm. After two attempts to make a similar puller to the stihl one, I came up with one that was beefy enough to do the job. Those things are in there good. So far Iv'e just removed the clutchside of the case, but I'll keep you posted as to the progress of my little project. Thanks a million guys, I couldn't have gotten this far without all of your asisstance. As I have said many times, " AS Members all Rock !!!:rockn: :rockn:

 

[Lakeside53]

If you don't have a press to get the crank out of the other side

Look at the ignition side of the case - you'll see three small screw holes (M4) for the generator mount. Find a big THICK washer, drill three holes, mount it loose with long M4 screws, and then use a conventional 3 jaw puller hooked under the washer to PUSH the crank out. That's how I did it... for quite a while..


When you are ready to reassemble the case, if you have trouble, come back to this thread and I can step you though how to do that too with "non-stihl tools". basically using the clutch center and a series on short pipes to pull on the crank side... similar on the ignition side, then case screws to finally pull it all together.

BTW, post a pic of what you made!

 

[lumberjackchef]

Its basically a jack screw like the stihl one just a redneck version. I'll post a pic tomorrow.

 

[adkranger]

Redneck engineering is the best, please post. I second Lake's request, I'd like to see too......

I've got a garage sale saw I'd like to tear down to replace a cracked case so I'm feeding off your success.:hmm3grin2orange:

 

[Lakeside53]

Heck, and I thought my angle iron was kind of red...:hmm3grin2orange:

BTW... on a bigger saws it pays to put a block of wood in the space on the left, and use a wood clamp on that end of the angle iron... Best use a square tube or u channel though...

 

[Kneejerk Bombas]

When you are pushing out the bearings, or reinstalling them, do you heat the case at all?

 

[Lakeside53]

Only on installation. The case expands on the flywheel side so you can just place the bearing by hand; on the clutch side, it has a minor effect as there is an integral cast-in Steel band that supports the bearing - it expands but at 1/3 of the rate of magnesium; you still need a press. I heat my cases in a convection oven to the factory spec for about 20 minutes - 302F... Ths way you get more working time and there is little differential stress (in comparison to heating just the area around the bearing). Any more and the paint starts to discolor.

 

[blis]

i prefer to put bearings to freezer for few hours prior to install, alot easier than heating whoel case...

 

[lumberjackchef]

I hadn't heard of that method before. Anybody else ever tried that, and does it work as well as heating the crankcase?

 

[lumberjackchef]

Screw Jack Pics

Here's a couple of pics of my homade tools

View attachment 41488
View attachment 41489

 

[Lakeside53]

I hadn't heard of that method before. Anybody else ever tried that, and does it work as well as heating the crankcase?

If your bearing is at room temperature (say 68) and you drop it to 28... that's 40F... If you heat your mag case from 68 to 302, that's 234F... And the mag expands 3 times the rate of steel...

Sure every bit counts, but it's not very effective. I do sometime put my bearings in the freezer, and the cranks to, but don't find it matters much.

 

[Lakeside53]

Here's a couple of pics of my homade tools

View attachment 41488
View attachment 41489

That will work, but... the crank sticks out further then the bar stud mount plate so how do you get it all it sit flush?

I was going to make a U channel with a cap over the crank end and a nut welded on top (now displaced by the amount of the U), but never got around to it.

 

[lumberjackchef]

Here's what it looked like on the case:
View attachment 41499

 

[Lakeside53]

Here's what it looked like on the case:
View attachment 41499

Check out my pic of the angle bar.. You can see the crank sticking up.. Didn't you have this? or am I not seeing something right in yout setup?

 

[lumberjackchef]

Yeah I had that too, but the iron was thick enough that it recessed up into that and then I had the added height from the nut that I welded on too. On a different note, how do I get the bearing off of the crank ? When I pressed it out it came out still pressed onto the crankshaft:help: See pic:

View attachment 41501