happysaws
Addicted to ArboristSite
I'd adjust both to 1.75 turns out and try again
stihl 039 rebuild
- Thread starter chris ham
- Start date
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captain dangers
partner 1633B (skil) chainsaw
the problem here may be? that you haven't applied a smear of gasket seal to the outer seals? I'm saying this on this occasion because of the way that particular model splits. I think old mccullochs/ 10-10 split the same way, and as far as I'm aware? they recommend using a gasket sealer on outer seal as well, because of the joint which can compromise vacuum etc. Conventional crank cases are different as they are not split right through the seal seat. Another problem could be that you have applied to much gasket sealer, which would in effect compromise the sealing of the oil seal outer seal, as the seat would no longer be perfectly round, but oblong, which would cause leakage. I think the best thing to do is pressure and vacuum test it . I hope this makes some sense ? C.D
happysaws
Addicted to ArboristSite
Get yourself a cheap MityVac, a Husqvarna spark plug pressure test adapter, and some thin rubber. Good to go. [emoji108]
Yea. I've used car and bicycle tubes that both worked
captain dangers
partner 1633B (skil) chainsaw
cardboard may even do for the short space of time you will be using it ? or a bit of vinyl ? C.D
I got the saw to run a little on 2/3 choke but when you mash the trigger it goes dead immediatly.To get this to happen I replaced the fuel line with an Oem one.The mity vac is in .I am waiting for the spark plug adapter to check for leaks.How much do you pump it up to
you've got to have a problem in the fuel system. Double check the fuel lines.
I replaced it twice.One was a non oem did not trust it.Next was stihl 0em. Changed filter multiple times.Took recoil off .Impulse line is new oem looks like it is plugged in cylinder correctly.Stll will not run right.
You can do it that way. Some saws though don't have a rubber impulse hose to tap into.
captain dangers
partner 1633B (skil) chainsaw
its an air leak by the sounds of it ? as your having to richen up the mixture with the choke and as soon as you throttle it up, its leaning out the mixture and dying. that's my humble opinion . C.D for what its worth, I have an old danarm I have to pressure/vacuum test which I put back together last autumn, as its doing exactly the same thing.
Can't a cracked fuel line do similar? A small crack or tear in the fuel line will suck air but if you've got the choke on you can sometimes get it to run. With and older saw this is very likely. Those fuel pick-ups can be a PITA. Ethanol fuel and time is their undoing. I'm NOT putting any money on the table or anything, just saying it's worth checking. Start with the easy/cheap stuff first.
found leak where belly pan and cylinder joined.I used permatex motoseal .It dried for 24 hours.There was a tiny bubble where it leaked like it blew out gasket material.How long should this set before reassembly.The instructions said 24 hours.
I use Dirko And put it together ASAP no problems as of yet , I do let it set overnight before running saw but I have only done a few hundred
Sawyer man88
ArboristSite Operative
I've had the same problem with my 039 build I finally got it running but it idles for about 2 min and dies out, the piston skirt was wore on mine mic the skirt and see if it's wore it can look good and not be the skirt acts as the Reed valve
put it together again and now it is leaking out the bottom around the screw heads.I am about ready to scrap the motoseal and try the dirko.It squished out around the cases good .I can not believe it's leaking through the threads.
