Had a Swede saw turn up.......lookin' for Husky 350 Info

The darn search feature does not fun-ction for me so I'm posting this up to learn about a particular saw, the Husquvarna 350. What is the story on this saw design(Pro or homeowner usage), how long of a production run(start to finish) and the general reputation of the saw????


The reason I'm seeking information is I recently picked up this saw from a friend that hadn't used it in at least 3 years and I want to get it running. According to him it's a low hour saw with the orginal chain. He also thinks it's a "Pro" level saw.......I don't know about that but I'm willing to bet there are numerous folks here who do!!! I DO know that it's got the MOST plastic construction of any saw I've laid my hands on thus far.....is it true the block on this saw is plastic also!!????

Any chance someone would know the production date of this saw with this information!??


I pulled the plastic top off and it looks fairly clean inside;


The engine under the plastic top cover looks pretty clean also;


Certainly a different style air filter than I've seen before on a chainsaw! Any way of knowing when it needs to be changed out since I don't have a clue as to actual hours on this saw!?? Any good on-line places to order OEM Husky parts!??


There is some residual built up around the carb but it looks pretty clean overall in there;.


Seems to be a fair amount of bar oil residual in these two pictures;





It's got a 16" blade and the chain seems fairly sharp but I'll know more once I get it running and attempt to cut with it.


Thanks in advance for any info that can be shared regarding this saw, it's reputation, things I should do to get it running and things to watch out for.

Its not a professional saw, homeowner grade, need the serial tag number to determine the date of mfg (its under the handle on the clutch side of the saw).
One thing to watch out for on these saws is the muffler tends to loosen over time. You can add a bracket to the front to prevent that. If you leave the muffler loose, it'll melt its way through your oil tank area of the crankcase..

SkippyKtm said:

Its not a professional saw, homeowner grade, need the serial tag number to determine the date of mfg (its under the handle on the clutch side of the saw).
One thing to watch out for on these saws is the muffler tends to loosen over time. You can add a bracket to the front to prevent that. If you leave the muffler loose, it'll melt its way through your oil tank area of the crankcase..

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I appreciate the tip on the potential of the muffler loosening up over time. Do you know if the added bracket is something available from Husky or DIY...........any pictures of what the installed bracket would look like??

Wow..........it's a plastic world with barcoded sticky labels.......I'm presuming this is the serial tag number!??

If you pull the clutch cover off, its behind/under the aluminum top handle on the clutch side of the saw. You'll probably need a flashlight to see it. It is a black metal tag held on by two rivets. BTW, the first two digits of the serial indicate year of mfg.

by clutch side of the saw he means
"undo the two nut on the side of the saw the hole the bar and chain on and remove the plastic cover"
now look for the small 11/4" long by 3/4" high black metal tag

SkippyKtm said:

If you pull the clutch cover off, its behind/under the aluminum top handle on the clutch side of the saw. You'll probably need a flashlight to see it. It is a black metal tag held on by two rivets. BTW, the first two digits of the serial indicate year of mfg.

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And the next digits are week number!

Looks like your 350 got the 52 cc 353 cylinder, with a doom top piston! Buy a real 353 piston and get about 0.3 hp! And please, keep and eye, and ear, no air leaks!

As for the muffler bracket, the one from the 353 should fit.

I think I've got it located!!

SkippyKtm said:

If you pull the clutch cover off, its behind/under the aluminum top handle on the clutch side of the saw. You'll probably need a flashlight to see it. It is a black metal tag held on by two rivets. BTW, the first two digits of the serial indicate year of mfg.

Click to expand...

Thanks, SkippyKtm, for the directive.......it was a bit of a challenge to photograph but here it is!!

BTW, I was feeling a bit depressed the past couple of days, but after reading your tag line I got a good laugh and renewed perspective, thanks!!



@ Saltas; thanks for your clarification also.....I'm pretty mechanical just needed the direction as this is unchartered territory for me.

@ Boskaerm; thanks for the additional serial number data.........looks like I've got a saw that was made in 2003, the 40th week which puts it right around the 13th of October, give or take. What was the indicator regarding this saw having the 353 cylinder?? Now you've got me curious....what is different about the 353 piston vs. the "doom top" piston that you mentioned was in there?? Any chance there might be a part number or picture available of the 353 muffler bracket??

Sooo is this amount of oil collection in this area "typical" or is there an adjustment that needs to be made for bar oil delivery or is there a leak??

The 353 piston is flat on top, yours is curved or doomed! Which will lower the compression! I think you've got the 353 cylinder, because it says '45' on top of the cylinder, and 52 cc on your EPA sticker! The true 350 is 44 mm bore, and 50 cc.

I'll try posting a pic of the muffler bracket later, when I'll get home!

I have an 04 model and enjoy using it. I have an 18" bar on mine and usually run the 95vp chain on it. I haven't had the problem with the loose muffler. I usually cut up to about 14-16" wood with it. Its not as fast or as powerful as my 346 but you can still cut alot of wood with it.

Looks like the chain is Oregon SL - a really bad kind of "safety" chain. Put an Oregon LP(X) on it!

Boskaerm said:

As for the muffler bracket, the one from the 353 should fit.

Click to expand...

Per your suggestion I went and did some research. Note the screw and bottom design (highlighted in green) of the 353 muffler bracket in the first picture. Now in looking at the next two pictures I do not see any form of an existing hole for the #6 screw to mount to. The bracket looks like a nice piece but perhaps target specific in design for the 353 saw??








I'm just not wanting the muffler to even think about vibrating loose and melting the plastic saw!! :msp_confused::confused2:

Boskaerm said:

The 353 piston is flat on top, yours is curved or doomed! Which will lower the compression! I think you've got the 353 cylinder, because it says '45' on top of the cylinder, and 52 cc on your EPA sticker! The true 350 is 44 mm bore, and 50 cc.

I'll try posting a pic of the muffler bracket later, when I'll get home!

Click to expand...

Sounds like good deductive reasoning/knowledge on the bore differences. I am curious how changing to a 353 "flat top" piston and dropping the compression ratio would increase power!?? I always thought the ol' hotrodder power increase trick was increasing the compression ratio??

A picture of the muffler bracket would be great to help understand how the bracket is utilized on the 353 saw.

the 350 piston lower the comp in the 353 cylinder! the 353 piston will increase the comp!

I see the problem with that bracket!

XPLRN said:

The bracket looks like a nice piece but perhaps target specific in design for the 353 saw??

.....

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346xp, 351 and 353 (magnesium cased saws).

Tighten the bolts often, as the manual suggests, and you will not have a problem with the muffler coming loose.

@ rburg; Thanks for your input regarding your muffler not giving you any problems and the kind of chain that you use. By chance do you do much fishing back there?? I've got a good friend back there who lives close to that big lake(name escapes me) and loves to get out and relax/fish on the lake.

@ saw troll; Why is the Oregon SL a really bad kind of "safety" chain.........does it just not cut good or ??? Thanks for your recomendation on a better chain....I'm new on all the technical chain stuff but did read thru a few of the FAQ links regarding chain types. Sooo what type is the Oregon LP(X) chain and what makes it a preferred product to go with?? Also where would you go to buy it on-line??

What they are trying to convey is that your saw has a dished piston. Replace it with the flat top 353 piston and raise the compression (as you were thinking).

I bought a '07 350 from a guy who thought it was a a "Junk Saw". I think it was a combination of his lack of knowledge and a poor dealer?

Anyway, after replacing the chain, it is a great saw. I have a 20" bar and .325 chain.

Starting is very easy.

nmurph said:

What they are trying to convey is that your saw has a dished piston. Replace it with the flat top 353 piston and raise the compression (as you were thinking).

Click to expand...

Exactly what I tried to say

XPLRN said:

....

@ saw troll; Why is the Oregon SL a really bad kind of "safety" chain.........does it just not cut good or ??? Thanks for your recomendation on a better chain....I'm new on all the technical chain stuff but did read thru a few of the FAQ links regarding chain types. Sooo what type is the Oregon LP(X) chain and what makes it a preferred product to go with?? Also where would you go to buy it on-line??

Click to expand...

Because it has the big bumpers on the tie straps, large ramped rakers, and low profile cutters on top of that ("green" chain). The LP is a normal profile chisel chain with smaller rakers and only the small ramps on the drivers, directly in front of the rakers as kick back reduction ("yellow" chain).

Warning: Graphic contents inside!!

SawTroll said:

346xp, 351 and 353 (magnesium cased saws).

Tighten the bolts often, as the manual suggests, and you will not have a problem with the muffler coming loose.

Click to expand...

Here's what happens if you don't tighten the bolts:
<a href="http://photobucket.com" target="_blank"><img src="http://i518.photobucket.com/albums/u349/skippyktm/PICT6184.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

I still think a bracket is a good idea, I could swear that husqvarna had a bracket specifically made to fix this problem on the 350. I did a search, but the AS search barely works, and the Google search pulled up reams of stuff that didn't pertain. Maybe someone like Spike60 or Roanoker would know of this bracket and its part number.

You could use the 346 bracket, but you would either have to cut one side of it off, or bend the one side 90 degrees and drill a hole through the case to mount it. Although neither of these options sounds very attractive.