Had a Swede saw turn up.......lookin' for Husky 350 Info

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I believe there is a muffler designed with a third attachment point for the 350, that I think is high at the rear of the muffler. :msp_unsure:
 
I love my 350! Starts pretty easily and can carry it all day. I run an 18" bar with full comp chain.

From experience:
1) If you crack the case, seal it GOOD.
2) Just go ahead and replace the fuel lines and install a carb kit
3) If you remove the handle, make sure you use the SHORT screws in the underneath holes. Using the long ones will puncture the oil tank.

Good luck!
 
I love my 350! Starts pretty easily and can carry it all day. I run an 18" bar with full comp chain.

From experience:
3) If you remove the handle, make sure you use the SHORT screws in the underneath holes. Using the long ones will puncture the oil tank.

Yes, I picked up a 346 where someone had reversed the screws and punctured the oil tank.
 
here is a pic of the extra muffler bracket
attachment.php
 
What they are trying to convey is that your saw has a dished piston. Replace it with the flat top 353 piston and raise the compression (as you were thinking).

Exactly what I tried to say :)

Thanks guys..............the terminology of "doomed" and "curved" was making me think of pop-up/domed piston vs. a "dished" piston.

I went to some on-line place called " partstree.com " and looked up the 353 flat-top piston. Is this good pricing or is there a better source!??

353FlatTopPiston.jpg


Here is what I'm presuming is currently in the saw;
350EPAPistonDished.jpg
 
here is a pic of the extra muffler bracket
attachment.php

Great picture of your bracket!! What saw is this and if a Husky 350 what year?? Was there a threaded boss cast into the cylinder fins or ?? All this saw has is a heat shield in that exact area.

I have to say it's a pretty big muffler(is there a cat element inside or ??) so I can understand the lever arm and how constant vibration could loosen up the bolts. I'm thinking that removing the bolts and drilling the heads for safety wire might be an acceptable option. I sure wouldn't want to end up having a nuked plastic mess like the saw picture SkippyKtm posted up....WOW!!
 
Wiring is an option. I would use Loc-Tite.
I don't think you have a CAT muff. It will have CAT stamped on the top, front if it is. I would consider a MM while you are at it. It will give you some pent up power. Google Arboristsite 346 muffler mod for some ideas.
 
I would order a Meteor from Baileys or Northwoods Saw. Either place would cost about 1/2 as much. Meteor is as good as OEM.

Thanks!! Great info to have, I'll check them out!!

@ Chris J. ; Thanks for the PDF link......and the preferred anatomy avitar and associated link. :msp_thumbup::msp_thumbup:

@ Warped5 ; Thanks for sharing your 350 saw experience.....hopefully this one will do the same.
 
Great picture of your bracket!! What saw is this and if a Husky 350 what year?? Was there a threaded boss cast into the cylinder fins or ?? All this saw has is a heat shield in that exact area.

I have to say it's a pretty big muffler(is there a cat element inside or ??) so I can understand the lever arm and how constant vibration could loosen up the bolts. I'm thinking that removing the bolts and drilling the heads for safety wire might be an acceptable option. I sure wouldn't want to end up having a nuked plastic mess like the saw picture SkippyKtm posted up....WOW!!

this saw is an 06 350 with no cat and i modded it too. the screw actually screws in between the cylinder fins. there is several people on here that dose use the safety wire in the bolts. i have several 350's and never had the muffler come loose on any of them. only one has that extra bracket on the muffler.
 
tighten

my husky guy said check & re-tighten muffler bolts when it cools down for several run cycles. i just checked mine and got a squeek out of one of the bolts.
the muffler needs to be supported in the front like the 353 which uses the spike mount for one side, case molding for other bolt.(not on 350). better than nothing.
see the 353 pic, i still can't get the pics to show.

View attachment 186684
 
I have rebuilt about 4 of these in the last 6 months, all scored with the muffler loose , myself haven't had problem with the muffler coming loose just keep an eye on it all of the ones I rebuilt had 45l on cylinder 45mm, with flat top pistons, a mm and no base gasket makes these a real nice revving and running saw with decent power, but I wouldn't even think about using oem u will have double what the saw is worth, all the ones I rebuilt and sold went for around $125-200 being in real nice shape about $150 - 175 being average, u will have close to $300 in oem parts alone so you can decide for urself, but they are nice little and light homeowner saws when running rite
 
I am not much a fisherman, but I work with many that do fish, some competively. There are several good watershed lakes in the area and Pickwick Dam on the Tennesse river is about 45 miles away. I believe you will enjoy the 350 for firewood and general brush and tree cleanup.
 
350 survived the meatheads so far

I work on a big farm. My end I do all the outdoor maintenance and a little beefer wrangling, at the other end are all chicken stranglers, a lot of broiler houses. They come and go over there, dozens over the years I have been here.

In the oddball tool truck over there is an unmaintained, never cleaned, used and abused, proly needs to be on the group W bench 350. It has so far survived all or most of those meatheads using it.

Not bad for a "homeowner" saw.
 
Because it has the big bumpers on the tie straps, large ramped rakers, and low profile cutters on top of that ("green" chain). The LP is a normal profile chisel chain with smaller rakers and only the small ramps on the drivers, directly in front of the rakers as kick back reduction ("yellow" chain).

You most certainly know all the descriptive chain terminology. By chance is there a pictorial overview some where, here or otherwise, that actually shows what your describing!?? If there is could you link it in here for reference purposes. I'm real visual and can understand quickly if I can see what is being described.
 

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