Had a Swede saw turn up.......lookin' for Husky 350 Info

[XPLRN]

I work on a big farm. My end I do all the outdoor maintenance and a little beefer wrangling, at the other end are all chicken stranglers, a lot of broiler houses. They come and go over there, dozens over the years I have been here.

In the oddball tool truck over there is an unmaintained, never cleaned, used and abused, proly needs to be on the group W bench 350. It has so far survived all or most of those meatheads using it.

Not bad for a "homeowner" saw.

Not bad at all......a tribute to tuffness!! What year of saw do you think it is.........or how many years can you remember it being a abused tool truck saw!??? BTW what is the "group W bench" ??

 

[David (saltas)]

You most certainly know all the descriptive chain terminology. By chance is there a pictorial overview some where, here or otherwise, that actually shows what your describing!?? If there is could you link it in here for reference purposes. I'm real visual and can understand quickly if I can see what is being described.

Chain Saw Chain - OILOMATIC® and Harvester Saw Chains | STIHL

this link will get you started
Green chain are those that have modifications that reduce the amount of kickback force.

All chain and saw makers supply homeowner / entry level saws with this chain to limit liability, you don't need a licences or experience to buy a chain saw and they are possibly the most dangerous and affordable thing the general public can buy.

Yellow chain is a chain without any kickback reduction features.
these chains have to be asked for at your point of sale and not recommended.

Their are many different "green" safety chains on the market all with different ways of achieving reduced kick back.

Some green chains cut fairly efficiently and others less so.

 

[SawTroll]

You most certainly know all the descriptive chain terminology. By chance is there a pictorial overview some where, here or otherwise, that actually shows what your describing!?? If there is could you link it in here for reference purposes. I'm real visual and can understand quickly if I can see what is being described.

In this case, low profile just means that the cutters are lower than on standard .325 chain - and it takes a smaller file for sharpening. The pictures in the initial posts should show the rest......

 

[XPLRN]

In this case, low profile just means that the cutters are lower than on standard .325 chain - and it takes a smaller file for sharpening. The pictures in the initial posts should show the rest......

Thanks, I took a couple of hours and checked out a number of the links on chains and sharpening in the FAQ section. Amazing how much knowledge is available on this site. Once you get going on researching stuff here time just flies!!

Just curious, what are your thoughts on the Oregon Powersharp combos where you get the bar/chain/sharpener as a "matched set!???

 

[SawTroll]

That is for people that don't know how to sharpen a chain - not something I would want....:msp_rolleyes:

 

[David (saltas)]

there are many filing aids out there

A File-O-Plate at about $9 are good value

It will get you to set your rakers at a good height.

If you follow the angle then the angle is right

The plate will stop you from filing too deep with too much hook.

The plate tells you the file size metric or imperial with a go / no-go hole fore the round file

You can buy a File-O-Plate to suit which ever type of chain you use even green safety chains

There are many others out there I believe the simple ones are best

Keep reading

 

[XPLRN]

there are many filing aids out there

A File-O-Plate at about $9 are good value

It will get you to set your rakers at a good height.

If you follow the angle then the angle is right

The plate will stop you from filing too deep with too much hook.

The plate tells you the file size metric or imperial with a go / no-go hole fore the round file

You can buy a File-O-Plate to suit which ever type of chain you use even green safety chains

There are many others out there I believe the simple ones are best

Keep reading

Thanks for the good thoughts relating to learning and keeping the chain sharp for better cutting!! I've been doing A LOT of reading, gaining some great info and friends on AS!!

 

[XPLRN]

Problems at elevation.........finally got it running at idle

I put a 20" bar and chain on this Husky 350 that I started this thread about and got it running pretty well down where I live(1100-1200 feet elevation). A couple of weeks ago I took it up to Prescott and attempted to use it up there. It fought me hard and would not start and idle correctly........always fouling out the plug so I knew it was some kind of fuel problem. When it did run it was a cutting machine with the new chain I had on it!! Ended up just setting it aside as I knew there was something wrong with the fuel delivery. My Poulan 4000 was running really well but ended up pinching it and needed to get it un-pinched. The Husky 350 saved my bacon on that deal as I was able to get it running long enough to finish dropping the tree that pinched my great running saw!!

Fast forward a couple weeks and I swung by my local Husky dealer and got a carb parts kit. Figured I'd go simple and just installed the new main diaphragm and it transformed my contankerous starting saw into a docile/pleasant to start machine. That old diaphragm was pretty stiff compared to the new one!!

Can't wait to get out and use it now that it will actually idle correctly..........of course I'm thinking about doing some type of muffler mod to it before then!!

Quick question............do you Husky 350 owners keep the L and H plastic limiter tabs on the carb or remove them!???

 

[w8ye]

Remove the ears of the limiter tabs

 

[XPLRN]

Remove the ears of the limiter tabs

Thanks, so for clarification; you don't remove the entire plastic piece around the L and H adjusters............just remove the plastic pieces and cut off the "ears"/ the part that sticks out and hits when the screwdriver turns the adjusters??

 

[SawTroll]

Thanks, so for clarification; you don't remove the entire plastic piece around the L and H adjusters............just remove the plastic pieces and cut off the "ears"/ the part that sticks out and hits when the screwdriver turns the adjusters??

Removing the "ears" should do it on that carb.

 

[w8ye]

I just reach in with my pocket knife and trim off the ears of the limiters and leave the main body of the limiters in place without ever removing them. The plastic limiter main bodies help you get the screw driver in the slot for adjusting them when the chainsaw is running. Without the limiter main body the needle screws are small and narrow with space around them.

 

[ft. churchill]

I love my husky 350. Never had any muffler bolt issues, and I used anti seize on the threads. Seems counter intuitive but it worked for me. Mine has a flat top aftermarket piston and jug for the 353. I'm running the full chisel oregon chain, that and the muffler mod was the best two items I did to this saw. Also I liked the rim sprocket that I swapped to, but that doesn't get you performance, just cheaper repairs when the rim wears out. As far as the limiter caps I've heard not to remove them as the spring underneath holds the jet in tension and keeps it from moving. I sacrificed an old small screwdriver, heated it up with a propane torch, and melted away the tabs on the outside of the limiters. Have fun and be safe.

 

[XPLRN]

Tab removal.....

Thanks, ST, w8ye and ft. churchill for your thoughts/input on the carb adjuster screws limiter tab removal. Should be getting into that saw soon and will 'Git-R-Done' !! :msp_thumbup:

I love my husky 350. Never had any muffler bolt issues, and I used anti seize on the threads. Seems counter intuitive but it worked for me. Mine has a flat top aftermarket piston and jug for the 353. I'm running the full chisel oregon chain, that and the muffler mod was the best two items I did to this saw. Also I liked the rim sprocket that I swapped to, but that doesn't get you performance, just cheaper repairs when the rim wears out. As far as the limiter caps I've heard not to remove them as the spring underneath holds the jet in tension and keeps it from moving. I sacrificed an old small screwdriver, heated it up with a propane torch, and melted away the tabs on the outside of the limiters. Have fun and be safe.

Appreciate hearing your positive love for your husky 350, nice to hear that you've not had the muffler issues that others have. By chance do you have any pictures of the muffler modification you did on it?? Did you do the MM and the flat top piston install at the same time?? I'd like to do the flat top piston mod later on.....for now I'm just happy to have it starting well and will be doing the limiter tab removal so when I do the MM the carb adjustability won't be limited. I've not had it apart yet.... so am not familiar with the spring underneath keeping the adjuster screw in tension......makes sense.

 

[nmurph]

X, I would pull the dished piston and install the flat top one immediately if not sooner. I would delete the base gasket when putting it back together and do a MM. You will think you have the wrong saw. Those steps would really be transformational with that saw.
There are MM pics in this ad-

http://www.arboristsite.com/classifieds.php?do=viewitem&itemid=2543

 

[ft. churchill]

I bought mine with a fresh overhaul that included a 353 top end. The muffler mod and limiter caps I did after one tank of gas to establish a baseline. You have to do the limiter caps if your going to do the MM as you need the adjustment to richen up the mixture to cover the increased flow thru the engine.
I cut the existing deflector off with a dremel, then enlarged the opening as much as possible and yet still keep the spark arrestor screen. You will see that the factory opening is only about as big around as a pencil. The opening on the factory deflector then became the next restriction, so I made a box from 20 gauge sheetmetal and tig welded it to the top of the muffler can. It's taller and wider and without a lip on the opening.View attachment 237362View attachment 237363View attachment 237364View attachment 237365

 

[XPLRN]

I bought mine with a fresh overhaul that included a 353 top end. The muffler mod and limiter caps I did after one tank of gas to establish a baseline. You have to do the limiter caps if your going to do the MM as you need the adjustment to richen up the mixture to cover the increased flow thru the engine.
I cut the existing deflector off with a dremel, then enlarged the opening as much as possible and yet still keep the spark arrestor screen. You will see that the factory opening is only about as big around as a pencil. The opening on the factory deflector then became the next restriction, so I made a box from 20 gauge sheetmetal and tig welded it to the top of the muffler can. It's taller and wider and without a lip on the opening.View attachment 237362View attachment 237363View attachment 237364View attachment 237365

Great to be able to get a visual of what you've done to modify your muffler...........looks great!! Thanks for posting up the description and pictures as I will be going this direction sometime in the future!!

X, I would pull the dished piston and install the flat top one immediately if not sooner. I would delete the base gasket when putting it back together and do a MM. You will think you have the wrong saw. Those steps would really be transformational with that saw.
There are MM pics in this ad-

http://www.arboristsite.com/classifi...em&itemid=2543

Thanks, 'nmurph', for your suggestions.........someday when I get caught up a bit I'll tie into doing just what you've suggested...........combined with a blend of 'ft.churchill's and your style muffler mod it will be fun to experience the transformation!!:msp_thumbup::msp_thumbup: