036 project
- Thread starter Mad Professor
- Start date
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Need to install flywheel and check ignition clearance, feeler gauges work, 0.010". Rope works great for piston stop, make sure it is clean!!! Stihl puller pictured is a must have for flywheel removals!
Same idea on other side, be careful as the crank will be opposite to tighten. On clutch side, pull the rope, and bring ca. 30 o before TDC insert rope again, remember, "left handed" threads/rotation....rope in port(s) is NOT good!
Tighten clutch. Install clutch upgrade, check oil pump drive spring, button up access.
I trashed an early clutch bearing on a 036, crank survived, be forewarned, 034 users too!
More to come......two more pics for this post......
warjohn
Addicted to ArboristSite
Very nice. Keep up the good work.
Out of order. Clutch bottonned up and a pic of clutch/brake
Dial up SUCKS...........need some sleep.........
Took a while before I downloaded the pics of the final assy.
Less than $200 into it with OEM piston, rings, seals, upper bearing/pin, B/C, clutch outer assy, hoses (all) , and carb kit.
Less than $200 into it with OEM piston, rings, seals, upper bearing/pin, B/C, clutch outer assy, hoses (all) , and carb kit.
Last edited:
Very nice work. Great pics too.
wigglesworth
Booned
Very nice work. I was wondering how it turned out. Got it in any wood yet?
Hi Folks,
I got the data back from my old computer, this was before the site crash. I'd like to put the pictures back into this 036 rebuild thread. It may help 036/360 people and those with similar Stihl saws. Has lots of Hi-res pictures of assembly
It seems I can't edit these posts anymore and put the pictures back? Can a moderator help me with this?
To give you all an idea. This was a freebee saw, piston was toast. It was my first go with the HCL treatment to remove transfer. Sorry did not have a before pic of the cylinder. For under $200 I put it back in order with NOS OEM parts including a piston and 20" ES B/C.
The starting material.
Under the muffler
The piston
Roxy the piston expert, says it won't sand out
Cylinder cleaned up ex side
Cylinder cleaned up intake side
Final product
I got the data back from my old computer, this was before the site crash. I'd like to put the pictures back into this 036 rebuild thread. It may help 036/360 people and those with similar Stihl saws. Has lots of Hi-res pictures of assembly
It seems I can't edit these posts anymore and put the pictures back? Can a moderator help me with this?
To give you all an idea. This was a freebee saw, piston was toast. It was my first go with the HCL treatment to remove transfer. Sorry did not have a before pic of the cylinder. For under $200 I put it back in order with NOS OEM parts including a piston and 20" ES B/C.
The starting material.
Under the muffler
The piston
Roxy the piston expert, says it won't sand out
Cylinder cleaned up ex side
Cylinder cleaned up intake side
Final product
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If you have pics of your oil line installation I would love to see those. Thanks for attempting to rebuild this thread with your pictures!
Yes, I do. But I'm not doing the whole thing again piecemeal.
The pictures came out nice as I did this outside on a nice sunny spring afternoon and used a Nikon camera.
I hope a Moderator fixes things so I can just add all the pictures again. I have more I didn't put into the original thread, as I was on dialup then, and loading a picture, took as long as having a beer, and a couple of pictures it was time to take a nap.
Here you go.......
Did you clean it all up first?.
Oil hose kit, line cut to size, note metal spring
You get enough line in a kit to do two saws, 1 if you mess the hose up 1st time . The hose is as stiff as a sailor on shore leave
Oil outlet orfice
I fitted the brass nipple into hose first then inserted the oil line into the case, you can fit to pump first but then the hose only sticks out a little, to get the nipple + hose crammed back into case. You can lube the hose a bit and/or heat it with a Bic to insert the brass nipple prior to putting in case.
You put the spring inside the hose, don't forget this or the hose will kink, make sure you cut it to correct length a while back....(74mm/2.9"). Then place the pump over the crank end. Try to start the hose onto the pump barb, it won't go, yet. Take some needle nose and grab the hose, then heat the hose at
the barb end and push it on the barb with the pliers. Too much heat and the hose will collapse/mush.
Bolt up your oil pump up. Don't forget the washer and sleeve/ring that fit over the crank end.
Turn the crank CCW until about an inch below TDC, insert a clean piece of nylon rope as a piston stop. Screw on your clutch CCW and torque it to spec. The torque spec is MIA in my shop manual, good and tight.
If you have a 034 or early 036 put on the clutch upgrade, the early clutch has a wimpy bearing. Take a look ----->
Edit: Whoops I forgot. Put your brake band back on
Grease the bearing, crank, and inside of clutch drum, line up oil pump drive wire in clutch drum and install washer (washer only fits correctly one way) and e-clip
<----Notice oil pump drive wire in clutch drum slot/grooveThen you just put the cover back on and you have a oil pump and clutch good to go.
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Wow that's really great! I didn't mean for you to re-write the whole process since you already explained it a couple pages back. Yes, the saw will be spotless before any repairs are attempted 
Not sure how much help you will get from the mods, as I am not sure they are even able to unlock these old threads.
Thanks again for your efforts!
Not sure how much help you will get from the mods, as I am not sure they are even able to unlock these old threads.
Thanks again for your efforts!
The thread is not locked, it`s just timed out and a moderator has no control over a time out, it cannot be restored by one of us.
Thanks for filling me in on this. Is the time out, time to edit, or time thread is inactive?
We lost a lot of stuff in the crash, and again due to photobucket. It would be great of original posters could restore the old threads
The edit function times out,the thread will stay active unless a moderator puts a lock on it. It takes a deliberate action to lock a thread, it never happens automatically.
Seems like the best way to put pictures back in is to "reply" to my own posts. Will try to do so but will take a while. The replies will be to the posts.
I hope this is worth my effort, again, and it helps pay back the debts I owe You all for "edumacating" me on saws all these years.
Best, MP
O.K. I've posted carnage of original, final saw and clutch/oil hose pics.
I'll try to add pics for each post as a "reply"., maybe with some comments past original.
This is the clean saw after I got it back w/new seals. Mr Billy/William Bratcher of Bennington Vt, He's the best, took the clean saw an $15 put the seals in from OEM gasket set. I didn't have seal puller back then and it was a chance to visit/bother Billy
Make sure it's clean
Stuff some clean PT/rags in the bottom end. (thats for when the circlip goes "PING!" to points unknown......)
Have rings on piston already, one clip in, install piston/bearing/pin. Put a piston support under the piston.
You make that out of a 1" oak scrap , lasts forever......
PITA to get circlips in. I start them with a thumb, then use a nail head to push in to seat them. Be careful steel is tougher than piston. Can also use "modified tooth brush"...
Now to put jug on. Piston is held nice with oak holder. Put some lube on the cylinder liner. Start cyl on piston. You need to compress the ring. I start at a pin then use a fingernail, when that stops working well I use a toothbrush handle modified for the job. It won't muck up your piston.Do both rings.
When you get both rings inside jug slide the jug down. Now get ready to both install the jug and pull the inatke boot into the tank housing.
You need some knitting string (ask girlfriend). two wraps around end of intake boot with long tag ends, put tag ends through hole in tank housing. Pull cyl assy to TDC without pulling out piston, put your cyl bolts into cyl. Remove piston support and PT you stuffed into bottom end. Carefully lower cylinder towards case while pulling both string tag ends through tank housing. If a cyl bolt falls into case, aaarrgghhh!!!!
Well out of uploads this post. String trick next episode....
Attachments
I for got the base gasket shot. Remember the base gasket unless you delete it.
Back too Bolting the jug down.....
Note screws, string. Lower jug and pull intake through tank w/string
Yank a tag end of string and it all comes out .
Edit: One I forgot on the clutch install, put on your brake band
P.S. AS can keep the thread all Pics copyright MP 2017
Clutch pics already added above
Make sure your flywheel/crank taper are clean and key and keyways are not buggered up. CW to tighten, use rope for piston stop, turn CW to ca. 30o BTDC before inserting rope. Torque to spec 50 nM
See flywheel puller used to pull flywheel on disassembly
Check your coil gap, 0.010" I replaced fuel ilne and filter. Big curved hemostats are the tool to have
Time warp. That oil line is the most aggravating part of the whole process for me.
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I've got some 6mm and 1/4" nylon air line here. I think I will try making my own replacement line. The 1/4" is tight in the bar mount passage, but it has the best I.D. for inserting the thimble, and for pressing on the pump outlet.
