Craftsman (Roper) 3.7A model 917351472 Mods for milling?

[Adabhael]

I inherited my Dad's Craftsman 3.7a (yellow and white) model number 917.351472, and I'm seeking thoughts on making it a dedicated milling saw. Like many others on this site, I am making a project of giving it another life (the saw I learned on and all that). Thankfully the repairs needed have so far matched my modest skills, and I am grateful for (and in awe of) the expertise on the various 3.7a threads here.
I am posting because I would like to switch to a ripping chain and replace the current bar and I have three questions:

1. Length/Suitability: The current bar has "33-36301 17” stamped on it (measures 17"). Adding length would be helpful to maximize width of cut when milling (mill mounts eat 2 inches, 4 inches if I end up with a sprocket nose). I guess this saw could comfortably pull a 20" bar based on the displacement, but does anybody have experience milling with this powerhead?
   
2. Mounting: Sears parts direct number is 642A29 (discontinued, just for cross-reference). Based on the most obviously relevant thread it seems the Oregon D176 mount fits (thanks 67l36driver) but may require mods to get the oiling to work? Hard-nosed options from Oregon are somewhat limited/pricey, and there are no good saw shops in my area, so I need delivery. I am not sure if the 917351XXX is the same B082 mount that MAC88 notes is NLA, but I deeply appreciate Opihi59, who got very little help from Oregon Customer Service with his 917.353750 Roper, but as usual triumphed, posted pictures, and even replied to others' questions. His posts do make me wonder what link count I will need!
   
3. Chain: As far as I can tell I have 0.325 pitch, 050 gauge chain. Granburg will happily sell me 0.325x0.050 ripping chain once I know the drive link count. However, After reading all the threads above, my current inclination is to follow Opihi59 and source a new drive sprocket to change pitch of sprocket/bar/chain to 3/8, which seems a more common size for rip-chain. Anybody have additional insight/sources for changing out the drive sprocket on this saw?

I appreciate and thoughts, suggestions, or sources I missed.

 

[Adabhael]

Finally got organized on this, and now posting some updates two years later for anybody who may be curious if/how this worked.
After lots of fruitless searching and comparing, I ended up following Opihi59,, crossed my fingers and ordered a replacement bar at 20 inches.
It was billed as a "Craftsman 200PXDD176" but that "D176" is a giveaway: it's actually an Oregon "AdvanceCut" with that part number and the D176 mount. I also ordered a Husky drive sprocket, and converted the whole thing to 3/8 pitch 0.050 Gauge, 70 Drive Links, just as what Opihi59 does. The bar fits the bolts on and adjusts just fine. There is some side-to side play on the spline shaft, but the drive sprocket centers up fine, and engages the chain nicely. Mechanically, all good.
As noted in a prior thread, oiling is a little different because the oil-hole in the D176 bar does not align with the bore in the saw. Instead, the bore on the saw crosses the (unused) oblong hole for the adjustment stud. In theory oil flowing from the bore should fill that hole, being contained in the space on the face of the bar made by the sheet metal guide plate and the tightly-clamped cover, and then either pass through to the groove of the bar and/or dribble down the face of the bar to the lower chain.
For milling, I ordered Woodland Pro 30RP Ripping chain (70 links) from Bailey's That worked, although I have nothing with which to compare. I should have ordered the Oregon and Sthil to do a shoot out..
I got the whole rig running this week on some small cedars. I found the oiling to be less than I wanted (maybe because of long cuts in horizontal orientation kept the oil from dribbling down to the lower chain?) That made me worry a bit so I turned the oiler setting high, and try to pump the manual piston from time to time. There is certainly oil coming out, I am just not sure it's going where needed. May need to rig up an auxiliary oiler at the bar tip.
Now i am having clutch problems, so back to the bench